Hey everyone, I am new to this hobby....never even swung a hammer, but eager to learn as much as I can.  Hopefully this is my first post of many more.  

I have been looking to get into blacksmithing for almost a year now and decided to buy a few starter items (old leg press, used coal forge, used welding table and some new hammers, gloves and tongs). I also became a member to a local blacksmith group in Alabama (alaforge.org).  With that said, I bought 248 lb. Kohlswa anvil.   I don't know too much about anvils except that the face looks like glass with nearly sharp edges.   I paid $1400 for it last month, which some might think is overpriced, but considering the condition, I felt it was a more than a fair deal.  I did a 1" ball bearing rebound test, and it had a better than a 95% return.  Not sure of the year or the value so I have posted some pictures.  

You got robbed, that thing is junk good only for a boat anchor. 

No, really. Seems like a nice score. Comes out at ~$5.50 a pound (if my math in the head is right) which is a little below average price here. 

Which brings me to this, put your location in your header. Not only will you be surprised how many of us live close to you but we also will not remember after leaving this post where in the world you are at. It does help becuase things like anvil price will vary from region to region. 

Next go down to the "introduce yourself" thread and, well, introduce yourself. Lets us know your other hobbies and likes. We love pictures of your work, your shop, your tools, your pets, family, whatever. We also love a good story so spin your yarn and tell us about the one that got away. 

Anyway , glad to have ya and welcome to the group. 

Oh one more thing, if you have not already go to "read this first" and read. Good info on the do's and dont's and not to use the built in search function. 

Did you not read the reviews on Amazon before buying that thing???

Hey Billy, thanks for the post.   I added my location to my profile and a little about me.  Also, thanks for the tip on the "read this first", which I neglected to do.   I have added another post on the Solid fuel forge.   I got a second antique forge that I just won on eBay.  I am hoping it arrives within a week.  It is probably useless for true forging but I wanted it to add some charm to my shop I will be building this summer.  

4 minutes ago, MeltedSocks said:

Did you not read the reviews on Amazon before buying that thing???

Yes I did.  It was had 3 stars due to it being too heavy to move.   

Back at you Jack,

Kohlswa is one of the finest Anvil, there is. They are made in Sweden. The downside, they have a heck of a Ring, Make Sure you are wearing Hearing Defenders when using it. One of my Anvils is a Mate to yours, You will enjoy it. The Anvil does not do any of the Work, You Do!!! The Anvil returns your Hammer Blows from below, Return On Investment!! (so to speak).

Pick up 'A Blacksmithing Primer' reference book. Randy McDaniels some times is here on the Forum. Randy explains in simple language that anybody can understand. I use it for my Reference Book, when I am teaching a Class. I go to some place like WallyWorld and buy a container of Play-Doh for $1.00, pick up a few, keep one in your tool Bag, one in your vehicle, a couple on the Shelf in your workshop. Play-Doh works identical to Hot metal, except you can hold it in your Hands, to figure out how to make something. It works exactly like Steel when Steel is in it's Plastic State, Red Hot. Use your Hammer and Anvil with Play-Doh, you don't need Tongs, it's not Hot.

Welcome to the Journey. There is no Final Destination. Every Day, YOU will Learn!! There is no Qualification Exam!!

Neil

5 hours ago, swedefiddle said:

Back at you Jack,

Kohlswa is one of the finest Anvil, there is. They are made in Sweden. The downside, they have a heck of a Ring, Make Sure you are wearing Hearing Defenders when using it.

I noticed some people wrap chains around their anvils.  Does this damper the high pitch ring? Also, thank you for the suggestion of the book and play-doh.  

Good Morning,

Some people stick a set of Tongs in the Pritchell Hole, some wrap the waist with Chain, sitting on a rubber Pad, Use Silicone to stick the Anvil to the Anvil Block. These are all different methods to quieten down the Ring of the Anvil. There are more!! The deaf Blacksmith is the initiative, Pardon? What did You Say?  You will just have to try a few methods until it quietens sufficiently.

Ring On, Neil

 The two most effective ways to dampen the ring are (1) to mount it solidly on a steel tripod stand and (2) put a layer of silicone caulk between the anvil and the stand. Both of my anvils are naturally loud, but these two methods deadened the ring almost entirely. 

A beautiful anvil Jack. You're having way too much fun buying tools!  Not to dampen that enthusiasm, but do heed the advice to get started, even if it is just with play-doh or modeling clay. This craft can be entered into remarkably simply (in which case you're hammering and learning right away), or one can spend much irreplaceable time in the acquisition of tools etc. and wind up just dreaming about smithing... (a thought offered by one who has erred towards the later approach)

Here's another good perspective on stands and dampening the ring of a loud anvil:

--Larry

Thank you guys, I must admit I am having fun finding these treasures.  While I enjoy collecting interesting things, I do want to learn the trade.  

At this point, I'm without a shop but I am in the process of getting a small loan and lining up some contractors.  I am hoping to start my foundation by this coming Summer.  Just waiting for the interest rates to hit 5% which I see happening very soon.

Also, thanks for the tips on dampen the ring.    Yes, the Kolhswa has a very high pitch sound.   It's not a bad sound but I can imagine the harm it can do to your hearing after hours of hitting it.  

On 1/17/2026 at 10:55 AM, JackG said:

With that said, I bought 248 lb. Kohlswa anvil.   I don't know too much about anvils except that the face looks like glass with nearly sharp edges.   

That looks like a barely used (if ever) anvil, and it's the little brother to mine.  I think you got a screaming deal on that. 

There are varying opinions on this, but I (and most) smiths would recommend rounding the edges and I like a varying radius from about 1/16" at the heel to about 1/4-3/8" at the horn.

 

54 minutes ago, billyO said:

That looks like a barely used (if ever) anvil, and it's the little brother to mine.  I think you got a screaming deal on that. 

 

The guy I bought it from what to sell Kohlswa to put towards his double horned 460 lb RatHole anvil.  I was a beautiful anvil.  He had my Kohlswa for two years and was afraid to hit steel on it as the face look nearly perfect.  He bought the Kohlswa from an old guy who never blacksmith but liked to collect Anvils.  He had Kohlswa for 30+ years and never used it. 

On eBay prices seem pretty high for anvil but I am not seeing them sell.  The same with FB marketplace; while they seem to be more reasonably priced, they are not moving.  I looked at a website in Europe and prices are about 1 Euro to 1/2 kilogram (1 pound) per weight of steel.  Yep, a nice 200 # anvil in Europe can almost be had for $200.   Then, while surfing the web for anvils, I saw a new 132 # Vevor anvil going for $198.  I understand Vevor are not the best anvils but still, how can one justify $5-$10 per lbs for an old beat up anvil is the US?  

11 hours ago, JackG said:

how can one justify $5-$10 per lbs for an old beat up anvil is the US?  

I have an old beater 1994 Ford F-150. I bought it with 150k miles on it and some real issues for 3k USD $. 

However, its a desirable truck, I'm told. I think the going rate it much higher. 

In the US, we have such an infantile view of "historical" and what a "long time" is that a 150 year old anvil seems like ancient history.... 

I think this has something to do with it. 

39 minutes ago, Ridgeway Forge Studio said:

I have an old beater 1994 Ford F-150. I bought it with 150k miles on it and some real issues for 3k USD $. 

However, its a desirable truck, I'm told. I think the going rate it much higher. 

In the US, we have such an infantile view of "historical" and what a "long time" is that a 150 year old anvil seems like ancient history.... 

I think this has something to do with it. 

Living in England while I was in the military many years ago, I personally found an appreciation for vintage and older antiques.  For myself, I prefer old over new unless a modern version is much more functional.  I probably overpaid for my 1966 Bronco but no way would I overpay for a newer Bronco, so I see your point. 

I do believe there is a market for some of the more rarer anvil or blacksmithing items and I would be one of those who overpay for it but I also believe the lesser and more beat up anvil will just sit of the market because those who are just starting off will most likely buy something new or cheaper.

After watching this video below on a cheap new modern anvil, I can now see why people would pay more for an older beat up anvil.  Can trust these cheap Chinese brands.

 

The video in question is of a well known Chinese aso- not one of the new real anvils. The vevor anvils are plenty fine. Besides, cut an old wrought anvil in half and you may see welding flaws. A lot of them break. I have one whose horn broke off- a bad weld

32 minutes ago, Ridgeway Forge Studio said:

The video in question is of a well known Chinese aso- not one of the new real anvils. The vevor anvils are plenty fine. Besides, cut an old wrought anvil in half and you may see welding flaws. A lot of them break. I have one whose horn broke off- a bad weld

I would have thought Vevor anvils were made in China.  They are advertising there 132# anvil for $198.  I few weeks ago, I consider buying one just for the the purpose of it being a striking anvil.  I don't think you could buy 132# of raw high carbon steel for that low of price. 

ASO = Anvil Shaped Object. Meaning that it is not made from a material meant to be beat on, in the case of the anvil in the video cast iron. Cast steel makes a fine anvil but cast iron is a boat anchor. 

Vevor, Accaio, and Doyle all 3 make a cast steel anvil that are quite usable and affordable. Roy at the Christ Centered Ironworks channel put a couple of them through their paces and extreme torture test. They tried to break one. Notice i said tried. 

I have one of the Vevor 66# anvils i use for travel. It works quite well for that purpose but you can tell a huge difference in it and my Mousehole beyond just size difference. 

From what i have gathered Vevor anvils are between .5% and 1% carbon. That tells me that the manufacturing process is not well regulated to the alloy. Where as a Holland anvil is H-13 which is a known tool steel made to certain specs. So yeah it may be a big chunk of high carbon but how high is a crap shoot, mystery metal in other words. 

Remember: A big rock will do ya if necessary! 

It is steel. That is an advantage over iron. Old anvils are well made wrought iron (of unknown carbon content. Would be interesting to get them tested.) and high carbon steel tops. 

Mild steel will work as an anvil. For how much many hobbiest smiths work on theirs, it may get very or not very warped. 

Chinese made or not, steel is steel. Cast iron and cast steel are objectively different, with different properties. While your personal preference may direct you away from china, remember that much of the 1800s steel in America (during the railroad boom) was imported from Britain. Not saying they're on par with China, but we may have had similar sentiments to their steel then as we do to China's steel now. I am just guessing. 

I have a 25lb Vevor which I have good feelings about, though I have barely used it. 

Like you say a chunk of steel is a chunk of steel. But from China you never know it may well secretly be cast iron, or have hidden air pockets or faulty welds etc. There's a serious lack of quality control over there, for example many fans from China have motors made of aluminium which is painted to look like copper. 

Also back in the 1800s british steel was among the best in the world, if not the best. The germans also had the highest quality gunsmiths swordsmithing etc. But even then britian was close and mass production of railway is different to small fine pieces. Even here in Australia if you find old abounded railways in the bush theres a chance it'll be britsh steel, i have somewhere an old railway clip with sheffield stamped on it. 

So comparing that to China really isn't fair, but still, like you said a steel chunk is a steel chunk now matter where and will work regardless.

Oh I wasn’t comparing quality, just possible attitudes. In the early 1800s we had just had some beef with the Brit’s in America.

I agree 100 percent with Chinese lookalikes. I think that vevor is trying to position itself as a quality-ish manufacturer. I had their 120v welder. Fun little plaything but it works a treat.

We ran some brass parts a couple years back. The manufacturing was good and all the parts made spec except for 1 detail. The stock we used was sourced from china. The parts were going to the military and there is a law or regulation or whatever you call it that material has to be sourced from a domestic supplier unless there is no other supplier. So the entire run was rejected and sent back. 

We actually run a lot of stock from china. If i am not mistaken it is about the only place you can source 12L14 steel now. I can think of 1 job we had that we got bad stock for and that was 1/8" brass that was too hard. The parts were super small and they would break off in the work collets. 

The little vevor anvil i got like i said works good. My only complaint would be how loud it is but a couple chains and a magnet deadened it right up.

On 1/19/2026 at 1:58 PM, BillyBones said:

ASO = Anvil Shaped Object. Meaning that it is not made from a material meant to be beat on, in the case of the anvil in the video cast iron. Cast steel makes a fine anvil but cast iron is a boat anchor. 

 

For most part I'm inclined to agree. Notable exception being Fisher. Although they're cast iron bodied they're unquestionably top shelf.