question for someone i was building some tong out of some 1045 after punch my hole and at a black heat i cooled it in the slack tub then i layed it on the anvil and watch the end shatter just past my hole i had just punched is this typical with 1045 :o

Cooling medium to high carbon steels is best done in the air or as a "floor quench"---if your floor isn't too cold.

you hardened it with the water. it shattered because of stress from the hardening.

It takes a min. of 30 points carbon to harden, even tho we recommend more carbon for a knife, 1045 is good for a sword, and it can harden when quenched in water quite well.

what Steve said and in addition a "black heat" is a bit too cold for punching holes. You probably put some stress cracks in it as well.

The original query is sort of hard to understand, but it seems that the quench was from a black heat, and the punching may or may not have been done at a black heat. I have punched 1050 without cracking it, and I have also water quenched it without incident. Of course, it was tempered immediately afterwards. According to the theory of martensite formation, quenches from black heat should not be dangerous, but we all know better than that. For some odd reason, even quenching mild steel from a black heat can harden it a bit, as those who make dinner triangles know.

1045 can b quenched in water from 850 with no grate hardeness affects and it shouldent crack are u sure it was 1045 ? and as evfreek said typically speeking u should pull it out and temper straight away DONT let it fully cool out if it is somethink a bit better ie.1060-1090 (oil quench) fully cool out temper while stil warm but it can be fully cooled but i am just saying what the books say but beeing a apprentice we allways let stuff fully quench and tember a couple of days later but i have seen hammers crack because they have been fully quenched and left 4 a day. you just have to kno what u are quenching really and anythink with sharp edges like a punched hole will crack if not tempered imedalty



damo

how bright is your shop? ive noticed that in a bright shop its a lot harder to judge color you probably had a bit more heat than you thought... i dont quench anything unless i absuletly have to had to much problems with hardening ... even mild steel can crack after a water quench...

material was purchased new as 1045 ,hole was punched at red orange heat shop is bright but slack tub is in the shade for the reason of watching color . that said this is the first time i have worked with 1045 it did not break in my hole but 1/4 in. away from it .:confused:i was wanting to use something a little tougher on my tong over a36 or 1018 witch i normally use .