Chop Saw Advice

[Truman]

I'm looking at getting a new chop saw for my shop, and I'm wondering what the main differences are between a dry cut saw and an abrasive cut off wheel.

I imagine that an abrasive wheel will wear down fairly quickly and need to be changed more often. It sounds like they don't make cuts as cleanly as a dry cut saw.

But I've read a lot of user reviews of dry cut saws and it seems that many people have a hard time with the blades going dull very fast. As the blades tend to be very expensive, this is a concern for me.

I think that perhaps these people just aren't using the saw properly -- they might be trying to cut too quickly, and heating up the blade too much ??

One person suggested that a dry cut saw blade would actually benefit from a bit of lubrication to prevent it from getting too hot.

Any advice on which type of saw to get? Any specific brands & models that you recommend?

Thanks.

[John Martin]

I would go with milwaukee brand. It's a bit more expensive than most others, but it will out last you if taken care. And does a heck of job on top of it. Just google "Milwaukee Power Tools"

[chiso]

I think you mean a cold cut saw something like a Brobo saw Brobo Metal Saws
You need to run coolant on them because they generally make the blade from High Speed Steel. In OZ it costs about $150 to get the blades sharpened.
If you want them to last use lots of coolant and never cut stainless steel.
We use them at work and they are a good saw if looked after.

[Truman]

Thanks for the advice on the Milwaukee brand. Most of my power tools are Milwaukee and that would certainly be my first choice.

The dry cut saw is much different than the saw that you describe, Chiso. Here is a link to the sort of saw I'm thinking about: Dry Cut Saw.

[Homes]

I was going to buy an abrasive blade saw but now I am also thinking about the dry cut saw. I would appreciate any feedback on the dry saw also.


Truman, the same saw is on Ebay about $45 cheaper

[HWooldridge]

I used to run a dry cut saw on aluminum door and window frames; it did an outstanding job - accurate and fast. The coolant was a very light mist and only kept the blade damp but that was enough. The saw cost about $12,000 (sorry, but I can't remember the name - this was years ago, I do remember it was made in Germany). That particular saw was not designed to cut steel but I'm sure they built different models.

I have used a 14" B&D Industrial chop saw for almost 30 years in my home shop and it will cut any piece of steel I can get under the blade. For my money, a 7x10 band saw, a 14" chop saw and an O/A cutting torch will handle 99% of your bar cutting needs. Add a plasma only if you need the capability to cut complex shapes in light gauge sheet metal.

[orgtwister]

i used to use a cold saw were i worked some time ago they work great but the blades are like a table saw blade you have to use the right blade for the type of medal your cutting i was cutting stainless tubing for headers and the mounting plates there were different blades for the different types of stainless as all stainless is not the same the blade for 403 was not the same for 304 thats were it would get costly unless you are cutting the same grade of medal you would need to have different blades for the different types medal you are cutting or they don't last .we had them sharpend after about a month but i cut thousands of feet of tubing in that time and we didnt use any cooling on them either and if your cutting aluminum you can do that with a standerd carbide wood blade

[John Martin]

Truman I was thinking more of this:

Milwaukee - 6176-20, 14 in. Abrasive Cut-Off Machine

It's what I use at my welding teachers place all the time. It's heavy duty, efficient, and lasts a long time(blade). Saw has a lifetime guarantee, so your son could be using it someday when he's 40......supposed to be able to at least.

Here is the price he payed for it:
Milwaukee

[ChrisB]

I just got the Milwaukee Dry cut saw. It cut thru 4"x 1/2 plate in less than 20 seconds. 1" bar of 1045 even less. I was cutting some 1" x 3/16 flat bar this morning. I swear the saw laughed at me. Its a heavy duty machine. The carry handle couldn't be placed in a better spot its very easy to carry.

The blade did come with a warning about what you could and should not cut.

You can sharpen the blades. HF has a saw blade sharpener setup for $69. A guy on the Hobart weldtalk forum did a nice write up on sharpening the blade. If I end up having to get that tool to sharpen the blade so be it then. I have several dull wood chop saw blades to practice on plus I usually chew thru a "skil" saw blade when I go to ASP every year. The money I can save on wood cutting blades alone pays for the HF tool. Not to mention it pays for itself with on dry cut blade sharpening.

I beat myself up for a few weeks over the subject. And went with the dry cut over abrasive or band saw. I'm glad I bought the dry cut. I had a borrowed abrasive for a while. Very noisy and messy and a fire hazard from the sparks. band saws in the same price range are made in China and need tuning out of the box. I don't have time to fiddle fart with a new tool to make it work right.

[meancoyote]

I have 3 chop saws, a dewalt abrasive saw, a harbor freight abrasive saw and a evolution cutoff saw, like what you call a dry saw. I like the evolution saw the best, very fast cut.

[Smokeman]

When I started getting into this, I bought a cheap Craftsman 14" cutoff saw.
I figured that I would upgrade when I decided if this work was for me. Well it's been about three years now and the Craftsman is still what I am using. No need to replace it yet.

[John Martin]

Exactly smokeman. A dry cut is nice, but more expensive and not necessarily needed.

[Mike BR]

Abrasive chop saws are simple enough that even the cheap ones seem to work okay. You could get one on sale for around $50 at Harbor Freight, and use it for mystery metal or anything else you don't want to risk your dry cut blade on. Or you could just get the $50 saw and use it while you decide if you want a dry cut.

[ChrisB]

The one I had borrowed was a HF special. By the second abrasive blade the bearings were going south in the machine. It had no guts either, cutting steel studs was about all it could do.

If your going the HF route make sure you have a store near you and buy it in person with the warranty. You'll be taking it back for a replacement.

[inazuma_x]

i have a bottom of the range makita abrasive cutoff saw. seems to work well enough. i am a hobbyist though so its fine for pre-cutting bar for forging/welding purposes. if you have a pretty high load then you probably want something a little better than what i've got

http://makita.com.au/product.asp?ContentID=2414nb_2

[Glenn]

I needed a chop saw and purchased one from HF. The second blade outlasted the saw.

Then purchased a Milwaukee at 3x the price and it has done everything I have ask, WITH a 5 year Milwaukee guarantee, and company support. Since then 2 more Milwaukee tools that have preformed very well.

[ironantlerforge]

I have been looking around at chop saws for a little while and was annoyed at the fact that so many have the stamped steel bases instead of the solid cast ones. I just got the Rigid chop saw from Home Depot which I am really happy with. I also have a Rigid drill press that I'm also happy with. It's heavy duty, has quick release bolts for turning the guide quickly without a wrench, the guides can do 45 degree angles in both directions, it has a really nice handle, it's quieter (relatively speaking) than my other chop saw.

I have surprisingly found Rigid products to be very reliable and packed with features that show they put a lot of thought into their products. I did find that the Rigid chop saw cutting wheels are a little flimsy and prone to bending thus making a cut that is not straight. I took off that wheel and got the 14" cut off wheels that Home Depot sells and that took care of the problem.

I am not a big fan of sharpening blades so the cut-off wheels are the choice for me. They are relatively cheap and last for a good number of cuts. The saw sells for under $200 at Home Depot. Here is a pic...

... and the pic ...

[philip in china]

I have an abrasive wheel saw. It is just a Chinese generic one with no brand name. I have been using it now for over a year. It cuts 6" I beam, 6" channel, 1" rebar fairly easily. Yes it is a bit slow and the material comes off hot but it does everything I ask of it. The only problem is that after a few hours I have to take out the brushes and clean them. Were I to get another saw I would get a slightly bigger abrasive wheel saw. One with a separate motor and v belt drive as these are more powerful and, believe it or not, cheaper than the more modern type!

[Truman]

Thanks to you all for your input. I got much more response than I ever expected -- all good advice!

I have decided to get a Milwaulkee 6180-20 abrasive. There will be no issues with tool or spring steels dulling blades. The cost of the saw is a lot less and it seems like a fairly solid, well built machine.

[John B]

For the smaller sections up to 1/2" x 2" don't forget the simplest and quickest way, the good old bench shear.