Need some idea's for a mechanism to secure my die plates on my forge press build

[Brooklyyyn]

Image of press attached. The carriage and top base both have an overall depth of 8". I intend on using 6"x6"x 1/2" base plates for all the various dies I intend on making. The idea was to have a U shaped rail to slide the plates into the center that fits snuggly... but im trying to figure out an optimal way to then lock the die in place so there is minimal movement when they are in use and are consistently aligned properly. Perhaps im overthinking it but would appreciate any suggestions for good solutions for what I hope is the last hang up before this can be finished and ready for us. 

- Also any suggestions for whether I should make the plates load in from the front where the operator would be, or would it be safer to have them load from the rear? 

[The Jeff]

Not my idea, but I saw this on a press similar to yours.

I also saw some that had the dies bolted in.

[Goods]

I saw a yt video of a gentleman making a dovetail fixture setup for his fly press. He locked it in place with a toggle cam. The video was very informative. Unfortunately, I can’t remember the channel unfortunately.

(I think JHCC may have posted it on this site previously…)

Keep it fun,

David

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

For as long as there have been power hammers and presses, the dovetail and wedges have held dies. Easy to make inexpensive (cheap) and fast to use.

I can't control the wind, all I can do is adjust my sails.

[Goods]

It took me a while to find the video, but you can find it here:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uJjxz3zjoT4

(I hope that worked!)

It may be more effort that you what to put into it, but looks pretty slick.

Keep it fun,

David

[Brooklyyyn]

Thanks Goods! This is incredible and definitely way more refined than what i was planning on doing. 

[Goods]

I have a feeling you have the equipment to go that route. I don’t, unfortunately . Lots of different options. I really like this one, but again probably the one with close to the most work. The real question is it worth the work to you? (I’m not sure if it would be for me, unless I found the machining side of it fun and fulfilling!)

Keep it fun,

David

[bubba682]

Mine are pretty quick and simple i use 1/2''plate for my die bases all are 6''x6'' then i welded 1/4''x1''x1'' angle iron around the outside of  base  so the base slides in and out then i welded a bolt and tab below the base.So the tab slides under the bottom of base to take it out then it automatically swings up because its longer on the bottom of the tab so gravity does its thing and the new base is secured in seconds.Been usin that set up for roughly four years on 19 ton press and no issues its not a complicated setup and its quick to change dies..I cut a 1/4'' off the angle for a tighter fit when the die base plate slides in hope that helps...

[Brooklyyyn]

loving the concept with the cam and dovetails. Have no issue going the more complicated route to pull this off. Already started grinding bevels on some base plates and side rails. Only concern is im limited on real estate for that rotating cam, but gonna give it a whirl. 

[Latticino]

I'd be a little less worried about the method of attaching the dies and more concerned about the guide design (typically see longer and more robust design - any racking and you will put a lot of stress on those bolts) and the potential lack of penetration on some of the critical welds for the top vertical piece of plate steel set between the two I-beams and associated gussets.  It may all be fine, and I don't mean to be alarmist.  Just please be very careful.

[Frosty]

That's way too complex for my tastes. I have a die plate template ad use it to make and drill the bolt holes for top and bottom dies for my 50lb. Little Giant. There is only ONE way dies can be installed top or bottom and it doesn't matter if you swap top for bottom as far as bolting them on goes. Al my dies are made from the same size blocks of 4140 I get from an oil tool machine shop's scraps. 

Yeah, it takes longer to screw and tighten the screws but they're self indexing and I don't need a machine shop and the training to make them. 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Brooklyyyn]

Latticino, 

I appreciate the concern, those welds on those vertical seams are for sure not the greatest... long story short I didnt account for welding those vertical portions prior to welding the frame together and didnt properly clean/prep the metal in those spots. My angle grinder and die grinder were only able to remove so much of the paint/primer that was in those tight spots and my tig welder was having a terrible time with it. Had to resort to stick welding which unfortunately I am still not great at. The tig welds elsewhere are far better than what you can see from this one angle... but regardless i'll be extremely cautious when putting the press under load and overdo it on PPE. 

The guide design has 1/2" plate on both sides and almost an 1.5" thick where the cylinder connects. The white pieces are thick plastic meant to be wear plates which I will likely upgrade to something like brass in the future. If you have any suggestions for a better material in those spots I would love to know. There is minimal racking currently when testing the system without load, at worst it's maybe 1/16". 

 

[Frosty]

Next time you build something like this, grind the weld joints BEFORE tacking it up and if you can't run a competent vertical weld lay the darned thing down. <SHEESH!> Cutting those welds is no harder than putting a scarfing bit in an air chisel and cutting them. Better to disassemble it now than be standing in front of a mechanical bomb when a critical weld fails! And no, you aren't likely to see a failure coming unless you're really lucky or have experience inspecting welds.

If you aren't going to clean and reweld those joins paint them. The paint will flake off if the steel moves on either side of the weld or the bead flexes. It's an old school way to monitor weld joints.

Using ultra high density plastic as bearings is a common practice and is replacing bronze in many applications.

Frosty The Lucky.