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Gas Forge Door Designs needed


hammerkid

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Hey Y`all
I`am fixing to finsh my gas forge and wanna make some doors that will open and close. I plan on using 1/4 or 3/8 inch plate. I wanna see as many differnt door design as possible. Since I`am going be building 3 sets of doors (one set for mine , my cousin`s set , and Jason`s set) I wanna see many differnt ideas so I can come up with the best ablae. Also please inculde pics and how to .
So Please post your pics of your forge doors.

Chris

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I used to put metal doors on the forges I made. Later.... (and better)... I started putting "C" channel on the ends of the forges... Then using soft brick as sliding doors.

Some folks just stack the bricks, but I like them to be held in place so they can't fall over.

If your forge opening is wider, just use more channel, and two bricks. Works for me, first time.... every time. Soft bricks can easily be cut with any saw (wear a mask if you are worried about particulate).

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Edited by djhammerd
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Here's another "sliding fire brick" type door design. Although I like the way DJHammered has his bricks sliding horizontally instead of vertically like mine. I've been putting a small block of brick in place to hold it up on the back when I need to slide something through. I haven't ever needed to put a brick in the front door yet...

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If you are determined to have metal doors, make them "swinging" in some way, with a design that allows you to replace the door and hinges. Anything that contains the door (like a track), will eventually burn and warp (as will the door) and you will have binding.

Also.... If your door lifts, have a swinging arm that pulls up with it (with a saw-toothed side) that will hold the door up if you want to leave it open. AND.... a long handle, or a slot that you use a long handle in if you will want to open or close the door while the forge is hot (and you will sometimes).

I have made forges with all these things, and have learned that the sliding light-firebrick works best for me.

The forge below is one I made years ago. I thought the sliding door was clever (track is 3/16th angle iron, door is 3/8ths plate), and it was until I used the forge a lot. The photo shows what eventually will happen with any plate slider because there is no way to insulate it. The track has partially burned away... and the door, believe it or not, warped enough that I had to take it out to flatten it.

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I have metal doors on my gasser and it is simply connected with 2 sets of pins that slide over 2 flanges. The 2 pins are on the outside edge of the door and the 2 flanges are just flat thin stock welded to the side of the forge. I slide the door on to heat up the forge then take it off or set it on the 2nd set of pins which raises it about 2'' for forging. Sorry no pictures yet but I got the idea from some one's pictures on this site so you probably have already seen them anyway. (his looked way better than mine anyway ;)

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Here are a couple pictures of the door on the back of my venturis.

http://www.polarbearforge.com/temp/small_forge_back_open.jpg
http://www.polarbearforge.com/temp/small_forge_back.jpg

There is a stop to hold it open, and there is a slot for it to lock into place when closed. It's filled with high temperature refractory.

Jamie

btw, the whole forge body is laser cut.

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  • 4 months later...

djhammerd
Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oakton, VA
Posts: 206



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
part of the post by djhammered.
If you are determined to have metal doors, make them "swinging" in some way, with a design that allows you to replace the door and hinges. Anything that contains the door (like a track), will eventually burn and warp (as will the door) and you will have binding.:


Here is some text and pictures of my solution to "SWINGING FORGE DOORS"
Three pieces of metal a few nails and some refactory blanket.
1. section of pipe (I used 1/2" inside diam. x 1 1/2" long
2. section flat stock cut to size of forge opening ( I used 1/4" x 2")
3. section of 3/16" round stock approx 4" long, bent at 90 degrees. Weld the 3/8" round to one end of the 1/4" plate, weld a few nails (the head of the nails) (to what will be the inside of the door (flat 1/4" x your size) Then insert the other end of the bent 3/8" round into the piece of pipe. Locate a spot on the outside of your forge where you can weld the pipe and the door will swing away from the opening of the forge and back to close off the opening.
Weld the piece of pipe there.
To finish, cut a piece of refactory blanket somewhat larger than the door and press it over the nails that you welded to the back (inside) of the 1/4" plate. Heat the nails with a propane or oxy torch and bend the nails over to secure the blanket (careful, try not to heat the blanket with the torch much, concentrate the heat on the nails.
I made three doors on the front of my forge, one on the left , the right, and one that swings up toward the top. This allows me to control the amount of opening I need without opening the whole forge at once.
I just take the end of my tongs or the piece that I am forging and swing open or closed the door (or doors) as needed.
No sliding doors getting "hung up."
Works well for me.
Hope this helped.
Charles J Hughes
C&C Ironworks
Blacksmithing and Metal Works by Commission
C&C Ironworks - Home
Hughescchd1@zoominternet.net
5646 Tulane Ave. Austintown, Ohio 44515

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  • 1 month later...
  • 10 years later...

Without an exhaust opening the forge will not do well. So yes cut openings for the exhaust. BTW... Welcome aboard, have you read this yet? It will help you get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST You might want to look through the Forges 101 section for ideas on the exhaust openings. What is your forced air source? Can't see it in the pictures.

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