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....since a decade I wanted to make a javelin for myself,.....

I  do not fight, I do not hunt, but I absolutely had to have a javelin....

not like a heavy viking spear but more like a light weight African ethnic throwing spear....I have loved african spears since I was a kid.

On the last christmas eve I made one for the first time,  and it was just as difficult to forge as I imagined.

I forged it from a medium carbon pry bar and the shaft I made of a handle of a straight garden hoe which I found at

the local hardware store. This wood is hard, elastic, springy and with its mottled tobacco color quite beautiful.

 with a diameter of 19 mm it is light weight and fast and throws beautiyful.

 

Cheers

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Not unsurprisingly, very nice.  Did you weld the seam on the socket, either in the forge or with electric or gas welding?

You might also try experimenting with an atalatl which will increase you range and power surprisingly.  It takes some practice to use it but not a lot..

I made a similar set of 3 matched ones some years ago for a friend to use on horseback.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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 Irondragon, George, JHCC thanks a lot for the nice comments!

 

On 2/9/2023 at 11:17 AM, George N. M. said:

Not unsurprisingly, very nice.  Did you weld the seam on the socket, either in the forge or with electric or gas welding?

You might also try experimenting with an atalatl which will increase you range and power surprisingly.  It takes some practice to use it but not a lot..

I made a similar set of 3 matched ones some years ago for a friend to use on horseback.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

George, the socket is not welded, it is just a "normal joint" 

in fact I never have forge welded a seam on a socket, I would have that for sure screwed up.

But I didn't mind because I wanted an ethnical Javelin, kind of African, and they all have an open seam....all in favour for the master plan

For forge welding a socket the thickness should have at least 2,5 mm - 3 mm, I guess...that would have increased the weight of my spear considerably

which I definitely wanted to avoid.

In its current balance and weight and my untrained "skills" it throws comfortable from 15- 20 m.Above that it is more power and precision needed

which I unfortunately cannot perform....honestly throwing a javelin is much more difficult and physically demanding than I expected.

The thickness of the shown socket is 1,3 - 1,6 mm,thinner towards the edges.

I also made a tail spike but the javelin is so nice and easy to throw and well balanced that I left it out for the time beeing

....it would have get heavier and change the balance point.

I'm not sure what I would need that spike for except sticking the spear upright in the ground( which I would consider dangerous)....

ah yes.... the ethnic or African spears all have a tail spike and they like to stick it upright in the ground:blink: but what else could it be used for...

poking in dead animals or elephant dung or some dirt stuff:D ....just so as not to soil the tip.

...but  tail spikes look cool. The javelin would look more ethnical and in that sense more complete.

 

 

Javelin, socket seam.jpg

Javelin tail spike1.jpg

Javelin tail spike2.jpg

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Thanks Guys!

On 2/11/2023 at 1:42 AM, Goods said:

What material did you use?

 

David, I used a medium carbon crow bar. Looking at the spark picture it has allegedly 0,5% carbon. After I finished forging there was maybe 0,3-0,4 % left ?

I used too many heats for sure, until the result was satifactory to me. It wont take a proper hardness quenched in oil I had to quench in water,

I think medium carbon is a good choice for a javelin head but You must have routine and use  only a few heats to get the thing forged.

The next one I will use W2 with 1% carbon just to be sure that there is enough carbon left after the struggle....well, it's all about practice again:)

 

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Templehound, sorry, I read that the first time around, but didn’t remember. Knowing the other work you’ve posted, when I scanned back through I was looking for a material specification and wasn’t expecting it to be in the text. 
 

Any reason you wouldn’t use the W2 just for the edge material? Either way, I understand about making another. It’s hard to make just one of something. 
 

Keep posting your work. It’s very inspiring!

David

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14 hours ago, Goods said:

Templehound, sorry, I read that the first time around, but didn’t remember. Knowing the other work you’ve posted, when I scanned back through I was looking for a material specification and wasn’t expecting it to be in the text. 
 

Any reason you wouldn’t use the W2 just for the edge material? Either way, I understand about making another. It’s hard to make just one of something. 
 

Keep posting your work. It’s very inspiring!

David

:D....nothing to be sorry, David.

I thought about forge welding a sandwich with W2 core, but due to the lack of having no power hammer I am not really trained and skilled to forge weld layered steel.

Even a simple piece of Damascus is a big challenge to me. The most difficult weld is the first where you welding a few pieces of steel together at the same time.

After you fold it the first time there is only one weld for the two pieces, it becomes easier at least for me.

So welding a core is like a san mai and the possibility to get  welding flaws for me is quite possible.

Like I said this is my first spear head and I tried to keep it as simple as possible.

Thanks for your good words about inspiration. Response and exchanging conversation motivates a lot.

:)

 

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