Can a manufacture date be figured out on a Fisher Anvil?

[edteach]

I bought this at a flea market last weekend. I don't know what the going rate is but around here the rule of thumb is 5 dollars a pound. It has a nice patina to it and its not beaten to death. I would like to know how old it is, if that is even possible. Thanks for any help.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains. I thought most Fisher anvils had the year cast into the base. Also Fisher used different logos over the years so I bet some of the Fisher experts like Josh (njanvilman) can get close to the year.

3 hours ago, edteach said:

but around here the rule of thumb is 5 dollars a pound.

Where might that be? Hope you have read about not doing any milling, grinding or welding on the hardened steel face. How is the rebound on it?

[edteach]

I am not real familiar with rebound or Anvils. I assume by rebound you mean by how a hammer bounces off it when struck. I will look up how that is done and what kind of hammer if it matters and let you guys know. I live in Bentonville Arkansas. The antique tool dealers around here go by that rule. Plus or minus by the condition and maker.

[swedefiddle]

Good Morning from the Left Coast,

Welcome to our world. If you put your area in your Avatar, it shows up with your name. Nobody will remember to look back at an early post. The make or birthday of your Anvil isn't so important as who/what you call it. More important is for you to use it. You can paint flames coming from the base, if you wish, it still is called 'Your's' or whatever name you wish LOL. You will find that now you have bought your first Anvil, more will pop up. "Oh, I didn't know you could use an Anvil, take this one. it has been holding this door open/closed for years", or whatever story comes up.

Merry (almost) Christmas, Neil

 

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

Welcome neighbor, might put the location in your profile because we won't remember it once leaving this post. You are in the heart of the NW Chapter of the BOA (Blacksmiths Association of Arkansas) a great group of folks myself included. If you are interested in Blacksmithing I would suggest looking into joining. We usually hold meetings on the second Saturday of the month at different members shops. Nothing beats having experienced blacksmiths to learn from. Our membership is made up of total novices all the way up to master blacksmiths.

Best way to test the rebound is to take a 1/2 to 1 inch steel ball bearing and drop it from 10 inches measured with a ruler. If the ball returns to say 8 inches that would be 80% rebound. In a pinch a small hammer will tell a little about it. Usually the hammer is used to test the ringing of the anvil but with a Fisher which are very quiet anvils the ring is not very loud. The hammer will tell you if the face plate is becoming loose by buzzing when tapped.

[edteach]

What would you guys think this one was made of, Cast Iron? Steel or Iron with a steel plate?  I also really want to get an about time for its manufacture. BTW there was a Blacksmith meet class next to Eureka West antique store a weekend or two ago. Were you there? I did not go but saw the sign when I went by.

[Frosty]

Fisher anvils have a thin-ish high carbon steel face that is welded in the mold when the body is cast. Proud lettering like the name "Fisher" can't be stamped in very easily and is a strong indicator it's cast. Lettering and logos can be cast inset like the logo "badge" on yours but stamped has a different look.

Good luck with finding out it's age, Josh might know and will be able to give an educated guess but personally I've never noticed the age when I'm beating hot steel on mine and the date is clearly stamped into my Soderfors. I'd have to go out and look to see what it is though.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

[TWISTEDWILLOW]

Howdy from Peavine oklahoma and welcome to the forum! 

Like Randy said you’re in a perfect place! There’s blacksmiths literally all around you,

Im a member of BOA and I highly recommend joining!

[BillyBones]

edteach, ahoy maty! welcome aboard among us scurvy dogs. The pirate Blackbeard, his real name was Edward Teach. Just wondering if any connection and another pirate fan.  

Billy Bones was the pirate from Robert Louis Stephenson's novel "Treasure Island" that gave Jim Hawkins the map. 

[edteach]

Yes I did some research on Blackbeard and so I used the name. My wife uses Anne Bonny.

I don't see a cast to steel line. I think its all cast.

[Irondragon Forge ClayWorks]

5 hours ago, edteach said:

a Blacksmith meet class next to Eureka West antique store

That was a blacksmith teaching class at ESSA (Eureka Springs School of the Arts). It cost something like $250 for a three day class. Dale Custer one of our members was the instructor. Not open to club members without paying. Can't add a link to next years class but a google search for essa blacksmith class will bring it up.

 

[edteach]

So does anyone have an idea of time manufactured?

[Latticino]

19 hours ago, edteach said:

The antique tool dealers around here go by that rule

Glad that you didn't go to one of those to buy an anvil then.  The eagle badge on yours looks quite different from mine, or the ones I'm used to seeing, but it could easily be an earlier style.  As noted, Josh will likely have more info.  I think that the number on the base is usually the weight in "10's" of pounds (i.e. 70 lbs.).  Your anvil has plenty of life left, if you plan on using it, but has had a bit of use already as witnessed by the scarred edges and face.  Value around here would be closer to 3 $/#, but that is typically location specific.

[edteach]

I have been looking for a while now. I live in North West Arkansas. I have talked to several flea market tool dealers and they all say the same thing. Anvil's at least around this area are hard to find and then to find one that is not priced very high is very hard find to score. The size says 70 pounds but it weighs more like 68 plus a bit pounds. I work on old fans from the 20s and 30s. At times things like the strut arms are bent. I have used the concrete floor in the garage to beat them straight. When my dad passed, he was a hoarder and had a lot of stuff. I tried to separate out all the antiques, but the anvil in the garage I lost track of in the selling off of all the stuff I did not want to keep. I missed the anvil somehow and the girl I hired to sell the stuff at the garage sale must have sold it and I missed pulling it out. My dads had a ring like a bell. This one more thuds. But I think his was all steel and was in the family since at least the 50s. I think it was my great Grandfathers and was given to my dad so it would have been even older. But spilled milk.

So I did not want to buy some Chines POJ.  I wanted vintage antique American made. I was told the Vulcan's were junk so I would pass on the few of those I saw. Everyone seemed to really like the fisher anvil's so I was looking for one of those but any anvil was hard to find around here. I ran all the antique tool boots at flea markets and looked at craigs list and my area on Facebook market place. People around here even those selling privately are asking top dollar for any anvil. One dealer told me he can sell any vintage anvil he gets, problem is he can never find any for sale that leaves anything for him to make any money on. My area I looked runs from Joplin MO. To Fayetteville AR. The other issue is I can not take any anvil. I don't want a 10 pound anvil, and I don't want over 100 pounds. 50 to 100 will work for what I need, Most I find don't have any makers mark of its light and under the build up on the metal.

I have another question. Should I wire brush this down and coat it with clear lacquer or leave it as is and oil it?

[Latticino]

Sorry you lost your family anvil. Hope it sold for a decent price, at least, though I suspect from your story that someone else got the deal you are currently looking for.  

This one should be fine for your purposes, though working cold steel on it will likely continue to scar it up a bit.  Fishers are well known for their lack of ring, and was a selling feature at one time.  It is a byproduct of the method of manufacturer, and not a defect.  For me definitely a plus as my shop is in a residential area, and my Fisher is likely all the anvil I will ever need (though I have to admit a German double horn would be helpful at times, and those antique church window anvils are so lovely...).  Wire brush and coating of boiled linseed oil (BLO) is often recommended, but certainly not required for a "user" anvil.

[edteach]

Thanks. That helps. I will wire brush it up and coat it in metal lacquer. I have the special spray for metal I use on brass and polished parts on fans. It keep the brass from re-tarnishing.