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Boiling Champion #60 blower


KWhat

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Hello everyone, new member here.

I was hoping to find someone who might know how to add oil to a Champion number 60 blower (or fan as they call it in the old catalog from what I can tell). It's an aluminum cast body. The one I found is in really good shape other than needing paint but I didn't think to ask the guy that sold it to me how to oil it. If anybody has any clue, any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for any help!

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Welcome aboard from 7500' in SE Wyoming.  Glad to have you.

Since the gear housing appears to be sealed I would say the only way to introduce lubricants is where the shafts go into the housing and hope that the capillary action will pull soe into the gears.

Even if they weren't designed for blacksithing use if it were mine I would use it until it started making bad noises or failed.  Otherwise it is just a large paperweight.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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Now I see why it was called a "fan." Ha ha

Well, it's in good shape so I will take the advice and use it for as long as it holds out. May find a way to introduce some lube via a small hole I can drip non detergent oil into and just tap it and plug it with a bolt. 

Thanks very much for the help! 

Very nice to be here as well. Looking forward to learning a lot.

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It's bolted together. I'll just take it apart. Carefully obviously. Unless you think I can sell it. Cuz what else am I going to do with it? I don't have a bomb shelter. Haha

It definitely moves more than enough air for a simple forge. Pretty sure I can salvage it. I'll just have to see.

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I have seen a picture of one with an oil port in the area above the handle shaft. It looked like the type of port used on some electric motors with the little flip lid. That style was made at the end of Champions existence, I think in 1986 0r 87. I would drill a hole with the blower laying on its side, checking often to make sure it's not all the way through, then use a smaller drill to finish the hole. Use a rubber plug to keep trash out of the hole.

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I believe you can still get those capped oilers Randy. IIRC they use the same thread as a zerk fitting. I recall guys on the  Forge .list griping when they'd get an old piece of machinery that had the oilers replaced with zerks and the innards packed solid with petrified grease.

Okay, a light came on and I "Duck Duck Go-ed, (Duck ducked?) "oil cup industrial" for a selection that'll make your head spin on the first page of many. 

Frosty The Lucky.

 

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Yeah actually I've seen that pic (drawing from their catalog) with the oil port at the top. That's where I got the idea to modify this one. Not sure how easily it comes apart or doesn't but it's worth a try. I'm a locksmith so Drilling and tapping is not unfamiliar I'll just have to see what happens. I'll keep everyone posted in case anyone's interested.

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You can still buy all kinda different styles of oilers online from various suppliers, 

ive got a champion Lancaster that I’m fixing up to put on a rivet forge I’m restoring, the original flip top oiler was all boogerd up

I found an exact replacement but I decided just for giggles imma order one of those cool lookin glass walled old style drip oilers a tap the cap on the gear box and thread that dude in there! I think it will look pretty slick!

an considering the fact I ain’t met the champion forge blower that don’t puke oil anyways it will prolly be pretty handy to have something that has an adjustable oil drip! ;)

I say drill it, tap it an find a cool oiler to install on that dude!

the reason those ol civil defense blowers had sealed gear boxes was probably because they didn’t want to risk petroleum lubricant fumes leaking into an inclosed space im guessin,

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I would suggest pulling it apart. As the case bolts on from the outside (forge blowers you have to pull the fan to get into the gear case) unbolting and pulling the handle and unbolting the side plate would allow you to clean out any shavings and gunk. Take pictures so if any thing comes apart you can put it back together. 
 

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Don't drill and tap until after it's apart and you won't have to clean shavings at all. Hmmmm?

Did you miss the post where I mentioned a simple web search for "Oil Cup, Industrial" suppliers? It eliminates the hunting down part unless that's your thing. A press in oil cut eliminates tapping the hole. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Been working and haven't had a chance to look for one of those but I appreciate it. I've had to fabricate a lot of things in my time but I definitely would like to do this right the first time if I can. Once again I appreciate everybody's input.

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