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I Forge Iron

An anvil project


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I am setting up two additional forging stations and am already short on anvils as it is. Not really wanting “good” anvils for beginners to bang on, I was looking at some of the Chinese anvils on Amazon, as well as some of the really nice anvils ( new car prices , but they are pretty) like a holland or nimba. I should get the good ones for me and shift my old anvils to the new stations, but it’s not in the budget at the moment. A friend recently brought me an old extruder die that’s split in half. It is an 8” thick disc 16” in diameter. Each half around 250# and it’s H13! Now it is a kind of funky shape, but I think I can work around that. There is a hole in the middle. On one block it is a rectangular groove about two inches deep and three inches wide. On the other there are two grooves about two by two separated by a 9/16” thick web. The surface needs to be cleaned up a lot, but as is represents a pair of forging surfaces about 8” x 7”. I am thinking the grooves can be filled with a block that overhangs with hardy hole.a horn added to one end, then feet welded on. H13 is not the friendliest steel for fabricating(or grinding for that matter) but I think I can get a fair shop anvil around 300 pounds by the time it is finished. Not sure I will maintain enthusiasm to make two, but will see how it goes. Another thought for the center section was to key in blocks like a cutlers  anvil. I got a horn forged today, it matches my 125 Peter wright reasonably close, but looks awfully small next to this block…

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I think you're spending too much time with a horn. I'd stand those blocks on end and round one end to serve as a graduated fuller, about all I use the horn for myself. I true rings up over it but that's about all. Standing on end means no need for feet and if you want a hardy hole weld square tubing or angle iron halves in the slot or similar in one of the double slots. 

With a hardy hole you can make a mandrel cone if someone needs to form around a round section.

Frosty The Lucky.

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