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Wagon wheel Australia


TravisM

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So I've been chasing some wrought iron for san mai knives for a while, it's a bit hard to find here in Australia.  I was looking to buy from overseas UK/US  postage is pretty expensive.   I got quoted £40 for 1 x wrought chain link £60 postage.   So I started looking for wagon wheels here.  I don't have a great knowledge of our steel making history in Australia.  I don't know if we produced much wrought or imported it, any help would be appreciated. 

The asking price is $200aud  1.5m wheel

 

 

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Thanks for the replies,   so I took a punt and picked it up.  Couldn't see any welds, it had a thick coat of paint over it, couldn't make out any grain until I got it home and gave it a sand back 

 

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Ripped into this wagon tyre today. 

I forged it from 20mm thick to 9mm. Cut it and cleaned up, the only high carbon steel I had around that thickness was an old worn out file so I used that as the core steel.  I've used old files for kitchen knives before and I really like them as monosteel blades.  It turned out to be a bad combo with the wrought,  I've got way too much core left, hardly any wrought.  I forged it almost all the way to shape just to keep the cladding where I need it but I'm guessing I'll grind through the a lot if the wrought layer.  I'd be interested to know how other knife makers work with wrought.  

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Certainly looks like wrought to me.  You did a fine job keeping the HC centered, at least in the photos.  Can be more difficult once forged to shape.  I've done a handful of blades with this kind of combination, and the wrought moves so much faster than the HC it can be a challenge to forge accurately.  If you forged close to final shape and thickness with forged bevels you should have enough cladding to show up.  Can be a real test of your forging skills.  Check out Nick Rossi's videos on forging San Mai wrought knives for good info.

I don't do a full perimeter weld prior to the initial forge weld, but if you have clean surfaces it can't hurt and will eliminate the need for flux.

Be careful when quenching.  The different thermal expansion between the hardened steel and wrought can rip your billet apart right down the spine.  Careful normalizing and stress relief before hardening and a slight bevel at the spine to reduce the thickness of the cladding seems to help.  Also make sure you get the blade into tempering as soon as it cools to a point where you have martensite conversion.

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Yes I was very surprised how differently the wrought moved compared to the file steel. I'm certainly no expert but maybe w2? 

I've done lot of san mai before and I do everything flux free.  My next billet will have 3.6mm 1084 core and see how that moves.  

This is the forged blade 

 

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