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Has anyone built a belt grinder?


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As Mills suggested, you need to really consider what you will use the grinder for and what it will be required to do. This is always the first step in engineering anything. Write down a list of things that you will do with the grinder currently, and anything else you might consider doing with it in the future. Think about: Does it need exchangable contact wheels for grinding different radi and curves? Does it need a flat platen for flat grinds? Does it need slack belt capabilites? Will it need a special small wheel attachment? How often will you be changing the wheels or attachments? Does the speed of the grinder require control and potential adjustment? Will your grinding be heavy or light? And what size grinding belts are available to you?

These are just a couple of things to consider when developing a grinder design. It is foolish to build a grinder that is something way more than you need, it will cost more and take longer to build, and if you don't really need all the extra, then it was a waste of your time and resources. BUT at the same time, unless you want to go and build multiple grinders in the future, you should really try to build a grinder that will satisfy all you needs for your current uses and any potential uses you may have for it.

That being said, if you want a grinder that will do it all, and one that you can easily modify, is easy to work with, fairly easy to build (you can even get by without welding anything), and easy to upgrade and make more attachments, I would go with a KMG based design. I have an actual KMG that I purchased from Beaumont Metal Works . And I must say it is the best grinder I have used. I am a bladesmith, so a good grinder is very very very important to me, and I need a grinder that will do just about anything, from flat grinds, to hollow grinds, to convex grinds, to linear grinds, plunge cuts, large and small radi, fast speed for heavy material removal, slow speeds for control, etc. And I need abrasives in the widest range available from 40 up to 3000 and even into the micron grits. I have a few pictures of my KMG on the first page of my website Fredeen Blades that should give you an idea of what the KMG is and its basic design. The basic design is really very simple, but very effective and highly versitle. The KMG is also one of the more popular designs to copy when building your own, and some sites have plans, material lists, and assembly instructions you can purchase if you choose not to attempt to engineer your own design. Here is one such site ! Plans for the No Weld Grinder . Anyway, thats my recomendation, if you don't need something as fancy or versitile as the KMG, then go with a more simplistic desing, like the one you showed in Hofi's picture. But be warned, if you have a more simplistic grinder because you "dont need anything else" you will inevitably find yourself wanting and needing to do something with it in the future that you didn't "need" to in the past. Once you get a tool that will do it all, you really wonder how you got by without it in the past.

Edited by TarAlderion
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Oops, sorry about that, don't know what happened with the link, typo I suppose. I fixed it in the original post. Thanks for pointing it out and giving the correct one.

I love my KMG, and of all the grinder designs it is the most versitile, and the most simplistic. The bader B III has a similar design, as far as exchangable tooling arms, and the drive wheel, and idler pully set ups, but it is not as easly translated into a build it yourself design. The KMG is also built super heavy duty, and goes way overboard with the materials. But that is not something to complain about ;).

If you guys need any extra pics, dimensions, or sketches of what the real deal looks like, or possible ways to substitue/modify the design, let me know and I can get them for you. Additionally if you run into problems durring construction and need some pointers or a new idea I would be glad to help.

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Here's an example of a KMG type grinder I built a couple of years ago. It's not a difficult build but it helps very much to have access to metal working power equipment. If you have an interest in building a KMG clone I can guide you to full plans and other sites where you can get more information.

8033.attach

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  • 1 month later...

I've got a plan for a simple grinder setup, not unlike Maser Hofi's. The only thing that I lack are.... well, everything. I need to find pulleys more so than anything else, but that's a matter of ordering them. I don't have tool rest on my design, and may just use some of the previously mentioned designs.

Has anyone built a copy of the Fogg design?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Dont forget to include cost of attachments in cost of the grinder. A complete KMG set up with multiple contact wheels, tooling arms, motor, and other attachments (small wheel, etc) will put you out about $2000.

The plans from Don Fogg's site are almost a 1-off of the original KMG. The original KMG is constructed with almost exclusivly mechanical fasteners, I think the only welding is on the tracking pivots for the tracking assembly, and on the work rest. Its not a bad way to go if you dont have the welding equip to do it, or if you have a nice CNC set up like beaumont metal works to do all the drilling and tapping for you ;) . Its actually faster and easier (therefore cheaper) for Rob to have the CNC drill and tap, then bolt it all together than it would be to weld the entire assembly. If you have the equipment and skill might as well weld it, I probably would.

If you are planning on building the Don Fogg plans, I would suggest that you modify the platen assembly attachment illustrated. Its a much better idea to go with more of a c-shaped mounting plate and to extend the mounting brackets on the platen itself, then you can pull off the platen and have a slack belt with the same set up. With the Don Fogg plans, the straight side of the mounting plate would interfere with grinding.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Belt Grinder - Blacksmith Photo Gallery

Shop built belt grinder. Machined aluminium wheels. Baler belt on drive wheel ( rear ). Thank you Merle Richardson for threading the drive shaft to attach the drive wheel ( the only part I didn't make ). 2 x 48 Norzon belt. Does all I need but also have couple of side grinders ( one with rock, one with flap wheel) and air grinders. No, I'm not into knives.
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  • 1 month later...
I was looking at the blueprints of Hofis shop, and there was this:

And, I realized it would be possible to build a belt grinder. My sister-in-law works at a sandpaper factory, so the belts are hopefully easy to get, my father is an electrician (and i am his apprentice), so electrical engines are not difficult to come by. So, any ideas?


I've built the no weld grinder. Did it as a winter porject about a year ago. I posted a few pictures on Tracy Mickleys website along with my homemade bandsaw. I need to take a few more pictures now that I've had it up and running for a while now.
Don't go cheap on the motor. Keep all of you tolerances as tight and square as possible. I made the main 4 inch box tube out of a thicker wall tube than he suggests. I didn
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I just finished my sander/grinder, salvaged parts, had to buy a couple of bearings. I decided with the parts I had to make one that could take 6X48. 2 x 72 and 2 x 123 ( i think) and 6 x 138" The reason being is that I have collected belts at bargain prices and I found pulleys that were 6" wide. I put a variable speed drive on it ( which I did buy for about $150). I was really worried about tracking but that seems to be working ok. I have to add one more wheel for the 138" x 6" belt. The 2 x 72 is hooked up now. I was wondering what speed ( belt speed) since I have the variable speed. The variable speed was nice for tracking the belt at 20 rpms. I will post some pics if anyone is interested. SO if you have an idea about the belt speed I would be interested. thanks kevin

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  • 2 weeks later...

If I did this right here is a picture of the belt sander, its pretty rough to be sure but it works fine. I am doing some refinements so to speak, adding a stop start switch and external, knob for variable speed, a platen and covering some things for safety.

Edited by saintjohnbarleycorn
hmmm not gtetting the picture to work
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Helllo
Have you ever seen a Bader Grinder. I used to grind knives, I had (built) 4 bader grinders. The biggest difference is they are direct drive, that is the motor has the drive wheel. We in SC improved on the tracking from the original method that Dan Johnson had to what he now offers. Simple direct and powerful.

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