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I Forge Iron

Trenton Anvil


DDayton

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Good afternoon,

I recently stumbled upon this beauty and have been cleaning off the layers of paint and neglect. So far this is what I have found for identification. I am fairly new to this community and have only followed YouTube as to cleaning her up.EFE09B80-C9DA-46C6-8EE1-000A9C2EC465.thumb.jpeg.e77001a315b9f62d4fbee6ab3f60fecb.jpeg284E2F97-0C5F-4101-8FB5-7288D1423583.thumb.jpeg.216e0969607a1319fe00db3dcb4ced01.jpeg449A01E3-5AC4-4964-A7F1-53765A87878C.thumb.jpeg.274499cc3c365ce995176089808b6af9.jpeg

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Edited by DDayton
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Trenton, a top grade American anvil made in Columbus Ohio, the base should have a caplet indentation on it. The stampings on the foot is weight in pounds and a serial number that can be linked to a date of manufacture.  The X stamping is a well known variant that folks have been speculating about for YEARS!

Why would you oil the face; just USING it will keep it shiny and rust free

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To be honest, yes. I have idle hands at the moment and would like to make her right before putting it through the ringer. Any advice on preservation and restoration of the face and table would be much appreciated. How would I go about finding the date of manufacture? All I’ve found is Trenton stopped making anvils decades ago, and even that info may not be accurate. Any insight is much appreciated as well!

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Pounding hot iron on the face of the anvil will make it shine better than anything else you can do.  If you get concerned, a quick wipe with ATF auto transmission fluid will help protect the face from rusting. Just a light film is all that is needed.  You do not have to clean the ATF off when you want to use the anvil again.

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Anvils have a hardened face of limited thickness; so that anything done to it that removes face thickness is cutting YEARS of uselife off. If you want to clean off surface rust a wire brush on a drill or angle grinder *lightly* applied to the face and perhaps a bit more heavily to the body can be used.  Afterwards, painting or using BLO on the body and a light coating of oil or wax on the face should help.  Not knowing where you are at makes it very hard to know what environment it needs to protect against!  We talking salt spray on a beach front or the middle of the desert, jungle or glacier?  (Hmm Antarctica could qualify for 3 of those 4...)  World Wide Web you know.

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I had done some slight reading on Cupping stones being a viable option to resurface without taking off too much face. Also, I have heard/read mixed opinions on painting the non-working surfaces of the anvil. What are some preferences?

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THAT ANVIL DOES NOT NEED GRINDING ON! 

THAT ANVIL DOES NOT NEED GRINDING ON! 

THAT ANVIL DOES NOT NEED GRINDING ON! 

Non-working surfaces it doesn't matter much what you do to them.  I have painted anvils, rusty anvils, BLO coated anvils  living in the desert I usually don't do anything to their "patina".

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6 minutes ago, TWISTEDWILLOW said:

There’s an awsome book I highly recommend picking up, called anvils in America by Richard postman, it’s full of awsome information 

AinA list it as made in 1941-1943

pg 361 

Thank you, I shall definitely look into getting a copy. I have a feeling I am going to develop an obsession with metal working.

10 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

How does the Navy protect steel items in your area from rusting?

Haze gray paint. Usually if it isn’t a moving part it’s painted.

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3 hours ago, DDayton said:

I have heard/read mixed opinions on painting the non-working surfaces of the anvil.

The working surface of the anvil will be bright and shine with use.  If you paint the anvil, the hot metal will burn off any paint on the working surface, face or horn.  A quick wipe with a little ATF is all that is needed on the working surface if you do not plan on using the anvil for a short period of time.

 

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