Mattstree Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 Okay folks. I have access to some scraps of 1025 spring steel shim material. It's hardened and tempered clean blue and what I want to know is if I can use it in canister welding with Satan 95 or something or some other type of powdered Steel to canister welded together to make a kitchen knife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattstree Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 1075 spring steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted February 28, 2021 Share Posted February 28, 2021 1025 is a low carbon steel and not hardenable. If satin 95 is a 1095 steel, then it will make a good contrast. Just saw your new post. Ignore what I said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattstree Posted February 28, 2021 Author Share Posted February 28, 2021 Can I use low carbon silicone Steel as in bandsaw blades in combination with the spring steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaxwellB Posted March 1, 2021 Share Posted March 1, 2021 People do make "scrapmascus" out of bandsaw blades and higher carbon steel. I'm not sure how well the finished product will be for your use since you're going to have mixed hardnesses in the blade and varying edge retention. Now, what you could do is get your billet prepped and then forge weld on an extra piece of spring steel to make your cutting edge so you have all the prettiness of the damascus pattern that you make and then the cutting edge is a solid, known steel that better takes to heat treat, sharpening evenly, and edge retention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattstree Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 MaxwellB Obviously I'm almost to beginner. I suppose I could use my Damascus look alike and then cut the bill in half and put several layers of the spring steel in the middle and then reforge it stretched out and then as I grind it to to shake the blade the spring steel the 1095 would be down the center of the knife and then would therefore be exposed as The Cutting Edge. Am I thinking about this correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billyO Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 On 3/5/2021 at 8:01 PM, Mattstree said: Am I thinking about this correctly? Do a search for san-mai. It sounds like this is what you folks are talking about. On 3/5/2021 at 8:01 PM, Mattstree said: Obviously I'm almost to beginner. I'll warn you that san mai construction is a lot harder than it looks. It takes quite a bit of skill to keep the core (edge) centered in the blade during forging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 8, 2021 Share Posted March 8, 2021 Counting hammer blows on each side helps; jut remember that if you always hammer one side first; the hotter steel will move more than when you flip it over and hammer on the other cooler side. (So do one side per heat, or flip the blade over each time you put it in the forge so you start with the other side when you do another hammer run.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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