MaxwellB

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About MaxwellB

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chicagoland, IL
  • Interests
    Green-as-grass hobbyist just starting out.

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  1. I think one of the best things I've seen here is the willingness to post mistakes, flaws, imperfect items, etc. all without the fear of that BS that others throw around. I recommend this place to everyone I come across who needs info because I know they'll get what they need AND they won't be branded a newb or a moron or anything along those lines.
  2. Oh yeah Frosty, I know about the mockery and good natured "abuse"... But there's a lot of forums that will ridicule and hound someone for honestly not knowing an answer, or doing something other than the "established way" or the way they think it should have been done. Here it's all in the effort of marching forward. Nobody here thinks of themselves as high and mighty, and so far it looks like even there advanced Crafters remember their early projects. I enjoy it here, even if I don't understand half of the conversations.
  3. Everyone makes mistakes the first time. It's what makes this forum great. There's no pointing and giggling when someone (like me) confesses to wasting time and money on things. It just doesn't work out sometimes. Hydrophilic is the fumed silica you want. Remember to spray water on the wool BEFORE the rigidizier so it can penetrate better.
  4. MaxwellB

    Pro forge 200

    Most everything I'm seeing has the port in the door open for exhaust. If you think you're losing too much heat through that you could probably make a plug to take up 1/3 or 1/2 of the open space, just to experiment. Make sure you rigidize the wool before you fire the forge back up. You really don't want silicosis.
  5. Outstanding. Thank you all for your feedback. It's very very much appreciated!
  6. I had put the stuff they sent with first, then when I Greenpatch'd the forge I put it on there. Right now it's just rigidized wool, and I might keep it that way. Or if I find where I put that Greenpatch bucket, I'll put a bit on there just to protect the wool.
  7. Latt - Oh yeah... There was plenty of steam. EVERYWHERE. It was coming out of both ends and looked like a Cheech & Chong video. I was worried at first because it kept coming. But then I thought of all the water in the refractory and the water on the wool I buttered with, and the humid conditions of the day. Event - I had the front choke open a bit more than the back, simply because I wanted to try and bring in more air to negate the hot exhaust getting drawn in. I don't have a welder, so I can't tack a heat shield around the choke like I would like to, or even tack a plate over the top of the front to keep exhaust/dragon's breath diverted. I've gotta see how low the burners are sitting inside and see if I need to bring them down further. Everything I've read say they should be flush with the refractory or recessed slightly, up to 1/8". That might be the ticket. I'd still like to see about that cold spot in the middle. The obvious first troubleshooting step is to turn the burner assembly around and see if the front gets hotter than the back. Then there's an issue with the burner assembly not diverting evenly. If the back still stays hotter, then it's an issue with the design or the reline and I go from there.
  8. Is that cold spot between the burners normal then?
  9. So, even though Mother Nature seems to have a chip on her shoulder for good ol' Chicago, I was able to fire the forge today and see if I messed anything up. So, for your review. Burners right after being lit: Burning on low pressure: Higher pressure burn, about 7 or 8 PSI: Back burner seems to be running more efficiently than front. Perhaps the door? Perhaps better placement (lower/higher, angle, etc). Not sure: And after forge is off and cooled down. No apparent cracks or deformation in the KOL layer: So, wiser smiths of the world, what would you say about this... Would you say that the interior is too small, causing the heat to not be able to distribute properly, causing the cold spot in the middle of the forge? What could be causing the rear burner to be hotter than the front? Could it be the door is there, trapping more heat? Could it again be the heat isn't circulating as efficiently so it's just essentially a blast zone? Tips to correct any deficiencies noticed would be appreciated as well.
  10. The flares are 1". I thought that's the measurement you were referring to. After checking again, the flares are 1" with 1/8" wall. So assuming the mixing tube is 1/8" wall as well, I would assume they're 3/4". They fit into the flare with just a sliver of daylight between the exterior of the mixing tube and the interior of the flare "coupler".
  11. Just checked the burners, they're 1". Weather permitting I'll be putting the burners in the forge tomorrow afternoon when I get off work and test firing everything, seeing how that goes. Worse case scenario is I rip out the KOL and the second layer of wool, and just put up a thicker KOL coating over the first layer. But I'll definitely have more info (hopefully) tomorrow after the burn.
  12. Hmm... blood bait. Now that brings back memories. That's pretty bad. Roadkill skunk outside the house. That's one of those that just lingers even after it's removed and the area is sprayed down. Went through a four gallon backpack sprayer filled with vinegar and some dish soap spraying down a 20' x 10' box where the skunk was smished. Still could smell it every time it rained.
  13. Aww c'mon!!! Let's scare the kiddies! I worked at a gas station and was tasked with clearing out the garbage cans by the pumps in August. Like, change the bags and wash the insides.
  14. I've run bear carcasses to a dump hole in the middle of the woods surrounded by fish guts in northern Minnesota. I think I can handle your moose toots.
  15. I purchased this forge: At the beginning of 2019, figuring I needed a hobby. Making knives and small things like that seemed like a good idea. Who doesn't love fire and hitting things with a hammer? I received the forge fairly quickly from the middle of Eastern Europe, and I went about getting it action-ready according to various posts I've seen here, and information I've sniffed out from other interweb sites. After putting a bunch of stuff inside of it to see if I could increase the efficiency, I came to the conclusion that there just wasn't enough of the right stuff in there. So I set about tearing out the old, and putting in the new. I started with ripping out the old kaowool and coatings I had on there, and putting in 2" of wool instead of the stock 1" that the forge came with. Exhibit A, post rigidizing and test burning: Next, I purchased some Kast-o-Lite 30 and lined the sides with about 1/4" on the sides and 3/8" on the floor. Enough to provide ample protection for the wool on the floor of the forge, as well as increase the efficiency of the forge. This also reduced the interior dimensions significantly. Exhibit B, forgive the perspective: The "stock" interior dimensions were, according to the original sale listing, 5.6" x 5.6" x 16". The new (approximate) dimensions after the layering of the wool and the KOL is about 4" x 4" x 16". This means the "stock" interior volume would be about 501.76 cubic inches. The new volume is approximately 256 cubic inches. So a hair over half the original space was taken up. In theory this will make the two burners (small in comparison to homemade burners) the unit came with more efficiently heat up the interior, and allow higher temperatures to be reached with less PSI resulting in greater fuel efficiency. In theory. I hope. The forge and it's new guts are now in it's bag o' humidity, where it'll remain for the next few days (until Saturday at the earliest). Exhibit C: The new dimensions will undoubtedly make it more difficult to work certain stock sizes in it, but I really don't foresee myself working with anything that's going to be wider than 4" and longer than 16". The only thing I can see happening is that trying to straighten coil springs (like the one see in exhibit c) will mean I have to cut off a length first instead of unraveling into a long piece of stock. But that's why man invented angle grinders. I will update this post again when the "cure" is done and take a picture or two of the test fire, as well as any issues I came across. I used about 5lbs of Kast-o-lite to do this. I probably could have used 6, just to make sure I wasn't spreading anything too thin. But that's why I left the roof of the cavity until last, as I had the burner holes to dance around and could spread out the product a little thinner.