LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 So, i am making this folder, and wanted the handle to be "skeletonized" (refer to picture below) the handle is made of some old scrap mild steel, its about a quarter inch thick (i wanted a nice heavy beefy handle so i can actually use it for hammering or whatever odd job im workin on) and i would like to know what the easiest way to cut out those triangles would be, besides a hand file. (Plasma cutter is not an option haha) i have every imaginable file, sander, dremel bit, drill bit, hacksaw and a propane torch, and a bunch of other basic tools to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Easiest or easiest cheap way that you can do yourself? Wire EDM, waterjet, laser all quite easy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 All of those are out of my budget range for now... I have started cutting them out by drilling holes around the borders,and just fileing them. It'll take a while, but ill get it done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Drilling larger holes that are tangent to the sides of the cut and using a good hacksaw works too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 You mean a hole hat touches all sides of the triangle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Or just two sides towards a vertex that would allow you to saw 2 complete sides. (Work both directions from the tangent points.) It you want round ended vertices I'd drill small holes there to saw into. There is a trick using a a fancy bandsaw with a blade welder where you drill a properly sized hole, break the BSB and inset an end through the hole and weld it back together and remount it and band saw internal waste space out. I've seen it done but never owned a fancy band saw, sigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Yeah, ok ill try that. I do have a bandsaw, but it is in need of repairs at the moment. I had never thought of cutting the blade and welding it back together. Bright idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Big industrial bandsaws often came with a built in blade welders for that very reason as well as repairing broken blades and making new blades from a coil of blade stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Wow that's pretty neat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Heres my progress so far. Didnt turn out to good, but maybe the second half of the handle will be better. Criticism is expected an welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 A saber saw will do the job for you as well. There are lots of methods available. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Yeah? I may just try that out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 You'll still have to drill holes to start and do some file work but a good narrow bimetal blade will do it for you. don't make the mistake of buying a fine blade though, the rule of thumb for TPI is 3 teeth on the stock at all times. It's hard to find saw blades coarse enough to meet the rule though. 12 tpi is right for 1/4" thick steel. I love my saber saws. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLAG Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I have used jeweler's saws for the initial cut after drilling an initial hole. You can. then, switch to a single hacksaw. (the type that is held down with only one 'screw'. Or an electric saw. etc. etc. SLAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 1/4" thick is a bit much for a jeweler's saw; especially for someone with no experience with one though. Be nice to have a die filer for cleanup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Well ive finally finished cutting out both halves, i drilled some 3/8 tried using a jig saw, but it didnt work as well as a saber saw probably would have. (Thanks anyways though, Frosty!) So i instead cut as much out with a hacksaw as i could, then cleaned it up with a file, and some sandpaper. My hands are cramped up, but its done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Yeah! A die filer sure would be nice to have.Maybe my next addition to the shop.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 I bought a little 1/2 inch pneumatic belt sander for jobs like that. I don’t use it often, but it’s a real treat when I do have work for it! Mine was only about a hundred bucks online! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 I have a friend who uses one of those to clean up hardy holes that are damaged or oddly punched. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Big foot, I have a 1" belt sander, But how do you get the belt inside the hole though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 One like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 I've got another question. So the long piece there is going to go between both sides of the handle and stop the blade from folding back to far (the peice will be flatter/thinner when it's finished) and im wondering what the best way to get it to stay there beside welding it. My ideas are: thread some holes all the way through and screw in some all-thread; rivet it (but the piece is pretty narrow so i dont know how well that would work); or drill some holes and force some nails through while the handle is hot... Thomas, Ohh nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Small bolts or small rivets are commonly used. Have you gone and looked at knives like the one you are making to see how they did it? (And what you liked best?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennyD Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Well... Looks like most of them have something like this, with the heads countersunk. Why i didnt think of countersinking them, remains an enigma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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