July 24, 200817 yr The yellow stuff was water and oil mixed together. This is normal. A picture would help on the pipe connection issue - can't comment further other than to say they may have had some special purpose for it. Copper is fine - a rubber hose is not correct. Go to Home Depot or Lowes and look at the ones on display - that should help you picture the repair in your mind.
July 24, 200817 yr Author Ok, thanks for the info, I appreciate it a lot. I’ll try and post a pic.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7359&stc=1&d=1216941191 The orange hose is one of the ones that burst. I don’t wont to ask to many questions, but I have another one. do you think the $250 I paid for it was to much? It’s a devilbiss 6.5Hp, 60gal, 1 stage(at the time of purchase I thought it was 2 stage) thanks again, Mike Willman
July 25, 200817 yr That line should be hard plumbed. Nothing on the head of a compressor should be soft line. You may just want to buy the factory replacement rather than fool around with trying to make it. I think you got a good deal if you can get it to work. It's probably a $400 or more machine.
July 25, 200817 yr Author Ok, I'll see if i can get the replacement part. Thanks for helping a kid out with his first compressor.:)
July 25, 200817 yr make sure where it goes into tank there is a check valve , otherwise it will leak out of the compressor head when not running , and some check valves you can buy via grainger industrial if they still carry them have a built in blow off for easy starting or your pressure switch may have a pressure relief what this does is downloads the residual pressure in the compressore head for easier starting i notice the motor is a duel capacitor so it is a single phase unit , i reccomend if possible to wire 220 volts for less amperes means less money out of pocket in electricity now whats your plans to have a pneumatic hammer to forge with?
July 25, 200817 yr Author Hay thanks for the tip about the check valve. I think the pressure switch might already have the blow off thing, when I turn it off it depresses a valve that releases air from the pump by a pipe. Is that the blow off? I picked up some stuff at lows and I think I got everything I need to wire it in. As for the air hammer I think I
July 25, 200817 yr Ok, I'll see if i can get the replacement part. Thanks for helping a kid out with his first compressor. I was also a kid once - with his first air compressor. We all have to start somewhere and we should never finish learning and sharing with one another until that day when we lay our heads down for the last time...
July 25, 200817 yr DeVillbiss is a top of ther line compressor. If you are gonna keep it, do an oil change every 6 months, keep the airfilters clean and pliable.Make it a ritual,every day, to check the oil level and drain the tank before starting.
July 25, 200817 yr You asked about using copper for the line you need. Not likely to work as with the vibrations from the compressor the copper would work harden and likely fail by cracking in a fairly short time.
July 25, 200817 yr Hey Mike. Where in Fla are you? There are others of us in the state. Someone might be close by to lend a hand sometime. I'm in Tampa. Mitch
July 25, 200817 yr I just checked my Emglo 5hp and the line to the pressure switch is copper as is the line from the head to tank containg the uh... can't remember the name of the valve.
June 11, 200917 yr That is a great buy for a compressor, just needs a little TLC. My first air compressor was off of a refrigerator. Yeah, it was slow but I was poor back in 1967. I have still got it for use on an air brush.
June 18, 200917 yr Author I used copper and yeah it’s worked fine for nearly a year now. used it to sandblast a 15 passenger van’s roof and then paint it. On a side note the guy ended up giving me $100 back when he found out it didn’t work, so I actually got it for $150 but I spent something like $40 getting it running. Mike W.
June 18, 200917 yr Hate to break it to you, but........... it's not just the pipe from the compressor you're missing. There should be a after-cooler before it goes into the tank. Take another look at the ones in the store. Looks like a finned pipe and sits next to the fan blades on the flywheel. It is a "MUST HAVE"!
June 19, 200917 yr Keep in mind this thread is nearly a year old - as he said, it's been working for nearly a year
June 19, 200917 yr I just checked my 3 units A very old Quincy a old sears and a recent DeVilbiss 6.5hp 60 gal. All have aluminum pipes. None have cooler fins. I did add a refrigerated dryer to the big one only beacuse I run a CNC plasma table with it. Ken
June 20, 200917 yr Well I'll be. Yeah my little Huskies just have a zigzag tube from the LP cylinder to the HP cylinder, then right into the tank from the HP cylinder. Single stage compressors have higher temp output though and usually have a more elaborate cooler. You saw that when you burned up that hose.
June 25, 200916 yr That the yellow stuff (emulsified oil and water) does,nt come out of my compresser and if it did I would be concerned that the rings where worn out. And if they were, the efficentcy would be bad, the electic motor may get to hot and damage itself because of extended use to get it up to preasure. I don,t know what you use it for, but I wouldn,t load it up to much.
June 27, 200916 yr Author I’ve never had the yellow stuff come out again. when I drain it now, just water comes out.
July 9, 200916 yr I must disagree, ACR or K type copper tube will work just fine, so if you know an HVAC tech. they will be able to hook you up.
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