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Buy this old champion or new Farriers anvil?

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Looks like a Peter Wright from the flats on the feet and the "Solid Wrought" stamp. It also looks like the edges may have been welded at one point, but it might still be fine if the repair was done well. How's the rebound near the edges?

  • Author

I would say that the rebound on straight center is 80% and the edges are about 60%. 

  • Author

Looking into peter wrights, I think you are right. The marking look like this one that I found online. 

18334.jpg

Weight stamped: 3   16 so 3x28 + 16 = 100 pounds. Old anvils are often off by a few pounds. so 96 is within tolerance; *but*:

That edge looks pretty sharp; how thick is the face on it?  I'm wondering if someone ground/milled the face at sometime to throw away decades of of use life to "freshen up" a sharp edge that wasn't needed.

  • Author

I can't see a clear defined line between the face and the body to measure the thickness of it. I am going to wirewheel the body but leave the face alone, hopefully that will clear it up. How thick should it be?

The 5th picture down, including the book, shows a pretty good delineation on the right hand side of the picture. I'd say a good 3/8" would be nice; but it's a More is better type of thing and depends too on what you will be doing. Old times smiths tended to use them till they wore down to a nubbin, and you could sent them away and have a new face forge welded on!

  • Author

I will measure when I get home. Thank you for the information!

  • Author

I got the eBay anvil today and I have to say that it seems to be pretty good for the price. It has about a 65% rebound and it definitely rings. Now to find out how to remove the awful blue paint. I attached a couple pictures, cameo by my newly built JABOD box (I might have went too small), and my unfinished anvil stand. 

IMG_5972.jpeg

IMG_5974.jpeg

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