dickb Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 I am making some hammers, about three pounds each. I can punch (or Slit) and drift hammer eyes pretty good on square stock, but all I have now on hand are a bunch of automotive axles ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 inch diameter. I do not have access to a drill press, just general purpose blacksmith tools. I am able to make a punch mark on the top and on the bottom of the stock quite accurately. Maybe plus of minus 1/36 th of an inch. I would appreciate any tips on how to punch the hole centered and at right angle to the front to back center-line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Make a holding jig out of angle iron. A more complex tool would be a hardy tool with a vee groove. A round punch is, well, round, so you dont need to worry about being at a right angle to the long axis. Just punch it on the centerline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickb Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share Posted February 12, 2019 A jig or other holding tool will not guarantee that the round stock is not a few degrees rotated. I think that might come back and cause me problems later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Flip and rotate between hits. That will tend to even out any discrepancies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvil Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 I think you dont understand the hammer part. A piece of angle will keep it from moving for each blow you make. After the first blow you will have this visual reference that you can see and use the mark 1 eyeball to rotate your work where you want it. Then hit it again with the cut where you want it. Truth be known, after the first blow, your piece will have a flat spot and you can finish it on the face of the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Do not over complicate simple Tack weld a piece of rod to the end of the material. No matter what you use to clamp the material, the rod should visually indicate straight up or not. If in doubt provide an indicator to match the top of the rod against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 Carefully forge a flat spot in the blank. It can't sit stably on the anvil anywhere BUT on the flats. You'll get one on each side opposite each other. It's a good time for a flatter so you get the blows parallel to the anvil face. A couple blows does it, the flats don't need be large at all. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted February 13, 2019 Share Posted February 13, 2019 ^^^ This is how I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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