I’m new and just wanted to say hello! I am in the process of trying to get all the tools to start blacksmithing or bladesmithing. Ordered few items to build a mini gas forge until I can buy a real forge. Also need an anvil of some sort. Right now I’m using my old vise anvil. I might head to my local metal shop to buy a big block of steel to use as an anvil. 

Question??

would mold steel be ok in a big block to use as an anvil or should I get a hardenable steel instead?

All the mold steel I know of tends to be high grade hardenable steel.  What is the mold steel you are looking at?

Or do you mean mIld steel?  If so mild steel will work just not as well as a hardened face.

The devil is in the details!

31 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

All the mold steel I know of tends to be high grade hardenable steel.  What is the mold steel you are looking at?

Or do you mean mIld steel?  If so mild steel will work just not as well as a hardened face.

The devil is in the details!

Sorry mild steel. My spell check is bad. If I get a mild steel block 4”x6” and 15” tall and weld a hardened face on it would that work? I’m guessing a hardened face would be ideal correct?

Fully welded and not just around the edges?  Yes; but it will need heat treat AFTERWARDS. Usually better to just use a mild steel block or one that is all HC steel.  Did you look at the Improvised Anvils thread?

12 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

Fully welded and not just around the edges? 

I have not looked. I can get pretty much any steel in block or round stock in any size. Just don’t want to spend the extra money unless it’s better. So I HC steel block I looked into is 88 lbs. 6”x8 face. Would that be a good start?  I can get for less than half the price a 4”x8” x12” mild steel block. Does the weight make abig difference?

To some degree mass makes more difference than weight. Look at the discussions on RR track. The same piece set with the flange up is nearly worthless. Set it flange downward it's better because there is more mass under the hammer.  However set on end you maximize the mass under the hammer and it is the best, all with the same weight piece

So instead of a 4x8 that’s 2” thick it should be stood up and use the 2x4 face to get the most mass under the hammer? If this is correct I’ll pickup a 4” square or round bar stock 24-36” long and hit the 4” face. This would put most mass under the hammer. I think I’m understanding correctly so am headed to my local metal supply shop today to see what I can get. I almost got a 6” diameter round stock they had that was 27” long. But think a square or rectangle might be more usefull having the straight edges to use. 

Thru history anvils have been used that have were lots of different shapes. Look thru the improvised anvil thread for so many ideas. Round will work too. There is a video called iron making in Africa that's amazing. The smiths at the end of the video use a round anvil and round hammers. Also you can look up an article about a pictish stone anvil that was found in Scotland

Starting out the most important thing is spending time working at the anvil. 1000 hours on a 100 dollar block anvil will make you a better smith than 100 hours on a $1000 London pattern anvil.

People have used rocks as anvils; even fairly recently---last couple of decades. Stop dithering and start smiting!

Ok I just got back and picked up a 65.8lb 3.5” round steel stock that’s 2 feet long. I figure the mass would be directly under the hammer. I also got a 4” square steel stock 15” long to use. I’ll see which I like better. Round or square. I don’t mind having both to use anyway. Now to finish the face until they are smooth!

would welding a hardened plate maybe 1-2” thick be better or just finish it and use as is?

I’m looking at building a base for each of them now. I also been reading up on hammers. I have a 2.5 cross pein hammer I bought to start with as the one I been using is beat up. I redid the face and rounded the bevels. I think I’d like to try a rounding hammer. Any thoughts on it?

I read a bit o tongs and seems a wolfjaw and bit or bolt tongs are kind of universal. I use mostly round or square stock materials so the wolfjaw looks ok. I made a tongs few years ago but it’s nithing like a real one. 

Just finish it off and use it as-is.

I own 3-4? rounding hammers of various sizes and don't use the domed end much.  For dishing I use dishing hammers or boilermaker's hammers.  I do use my cross peen and straight peen hammers a lot.  When I teach I often have to point out to students who chose the rounding hammer that they are using the wrong face for what they want to do with it.

As they tend to be expensive if new; (mine were US$5 or under used), I will probably not be adding any of the "fad Hammers" to my rack.

I see. I just want a cross pein and a rounding hammer. For what I plan it should be all I need. I tried the steel after facing it off and it pings and the rebound is nice! Huge difference in moving the metal! I can’t believe how much more it more it moves with even soft hits! Was worth the money!!

Hello AngryDaddyBird, I am also from spokompton. Right not i'm at college in Montana, but if I'm back over the summer we should get together and forge a bit 

Sounds good. 

There is the NWBA conference this month in Longview. You might want to check it out if only to meet more from your area.

 

Look at the NWBA web site, blacksmith.org for details. There will be a tailgating section, demos, an auction and lots of good comraderie. I hope to see you there. 

sup man. i went to rehab in spo-compton when i was 16. ive also been through their a few other times neet little town.  love eastern washington weather