AngryDaddyBird

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About AngryDaddyBird

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, hammock camping, hiking, fishing, archery, knives and fire!!

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  1. AngryDaddyBird

    Forges 101

    I’ll take a look at that burner. I do have a few atlas burners I may use.
  2. AngryDaddyBird

    Forges 101

    Because it works so well I already have plans on the next build. Stainless housing, stainless burner and stainless wrapped hoses. I’ll build a stainless stand somehow. Even though I had burners already I been trying to figure out how to make a burner similar to the torch head I made. Getting stuck on ideas.
  3. AngryDaddyBird

    Forges 101

    Yes I have one. Two actually. But I also had lots of half full tanks like these so am using them up. Once gone I’ll be running it off a regular BBQ tank.
  4. AngryDaddyBird

    Forges 101

    I’ll try to answer best I can and I appreciate allthe kind words. I ran it yesterday 3 hours and the can didn’t get hit until the 1-1.5hour mark. My torch now gets about 2-3 hours on a 1lb tank but yesterday I backed it down and it’s still got about 1/4 tank left after a 3hoyr run. I find that after up to temperature I can back it off quite abit! I think the heat out the end eventually reflects to the outer can or its overal so small it’s bound to get hot no matter what. I’m sure I could wrap koawool or even fiberglass around the outside and it be cool to touch. It takes 5 minutes to get up to good temperature and anything I place inside heats up fast! I lined it first with Koawool and packed it against the wall tightly. Tried it and did ok just like that with a coat of Metrikote on the koawool. Then I decided I’d try putting the Kast-O-Lite 3000 on it and finished with the Metrikote. If I had to do it again I’d just do koawool andmetrikote or just Kast-O-Lite and Metrikote. the burner/torch is 1.5” away brim the front opening angles upwards and towards the back opening. I played around with jet/torch angle a bit before I was happy. The flame swirls the entire chamber length and heats to the very back of the forge. The bricks that are in back of the firge are 1/4” away. I tried blocking it but got better results with it open. Out the front is only A tiny bit of flame. I planed on using a regularforge burner but think this will be ok to play with. I already have the materials to make a second bigger version. I have 1/4” thick 6” square tubing 15” long. I’ll use it to make the next one. Also plan to make a nicer micro with 4” square tubing. I also have 20psi & 30psi regulator hoses, extensions and burners. So lots to play with once I decide what to make. I’m thinking I’d only need the 100k atlas burner and not the dual 150k for a 5” chamber 12-15” long but I’ll have to just test it and see. Heres some one things I just made in the pictures below. Mini log dogs and a snail striker. I heat treat only the face with a torch instead of the forge to keep the rest of the striker soft not brittle. Thanks Ryan
  5. AngryDaddyBird

    Forges 101

    I transferred this over as mentioned I should do. Here is my first attempt with mistakes upon mistakes but in the end, It works! the post was this: For several months I been using two propane torches to try my hand and forging small steel stock into flint strikers and other things. One torch is a bernzomatic BZ8250HT and the other is a modified Old bernzomatic all brass torch. Both are regular propane/mapp torches. I been reading for months about what forge to buy. Then decided since I don’t know if I really want one I’ll just make an easy mini can forge. I Used Koawool, Kast-O-Lite 3000 and Metrikote. Heat source will be my modded torch head. I do have a few atlas burners and regulator hoses from atlas. The 30k with 20psi regulator and the dual 150k setup with 30psi regulator but I think I’ll save those for a nicer more thought out build. This was a fun build and works. I tried to angle the heat into a swirl and it does it well! It’s my first try so lots of mistakes and lots of things I’ll do different on my next bigger build. I’ll make the next one with a 5” diameter chamber that’s 12-15” long. There’s Many, Many mistakes on this build! But hey.... I tried  Heres some pictures. 
  6. AngryDaddyBird

    First try building a forge.

    I think it just might be handy enough for now.
  7. AngryDaddyBird

    First try building a forge.

    I’ll see if I can figure out how to transfer this. Yes lots of errors like kast-o-lite over the koawool. Any advice is appreciated!! How can I transfer this to permanent firges 101?
  8. AngryDaddyBird

    First try building a forge.

    For several months I been using two propane torches to try my hand and forging small steel stock into flint strikers and other things. One is a bernzomatic BZ8250HT and the other is a modified Old bernzomatic all brass torch. Both are regular propane/mapp torches. I been reading for months about what forgeto buy. Then decided since I don’t know if I really want one I’ll just make an easy mini can forge. Used Koawool, Kast-O-Lite 3000 and Metrikote. Heat source will be my modded torch head. I do have a few atlas burners and regulator hoses from atlas. The 30kband dual 150k setup but think I’ll save those for a nicer build. This was a fun build and works. I tried to angle the heat into a swirl and it does it well! It’s my first try so lots of mistakes and lots of things I’ll do different on my next bigger build. I’ll make the next one with a 5” diameter chamber that’s 12-15” long. Heres some pictures.
  9. AngryDaddyBird

    A collection of improvised anvils

    I just finished the stand for a 3.5” diameter steel rod that is 26” long. It’s at 30.5” total height. After pouring in sand around the steel the ringing or ping drastically reduced to almost none! I like it!
  10. AngryDaddyBird

    Hello from Spokane Wa!

    I see. I just want a cross pein and a rounding hammer. For what I plan it should be all I need. I tried the steel after facing it off and it pings and the rebound is nice! Huge difference in moving the metal! I can’t believe how much more it more it moves with even soft hits! Was worth the money!!
  11. AngryDaddyBird

    Hello from Spokane Wa!

    Ok I just got back and picked up a 65.8lb 3.5” round steel stock that’s 2 feet long. I figure the mass would be directly under the hammer. I also got a 4” square steel stock 15” long to use. I’ll see which I like better. Round or square. I don’t mind having both to use anyway. Now to finish the face until they are smooth! would welding a hardened plate maybe 1-2” thick be better or just finish it and use as is? I’m looking at building a base for each of them now. I also been reading up on hammers. I have a 2.5 cross pein hammer I bought to start with as the one I been using is beat up. I redid the face and rounded the bevels. I think I’d like to try a rounding hammer. Any thoughts on it? I read a bit o tongs and seems a wolfjaw and bit or bolt tongs are kind of universal. I use mostly round or square stock materials so the wolfjaw looks ok. I made a tongs few years ago but it’s nithing like a real one.
  12. AngryDaddyBird

    Hello from Spokane Wa!

    So instead of a 4x8 that’s 2” thick it should be stood up and use the 2x4 face to get the most mass under the hammer? If this is correct I’ll pickup a 4” square or round bar stock 24-36” long and hit the 4” face. This would put most mass under the hammer. I think I’m understanding correctly so am headed to my local metal supply shop today to see what I can get. I almost got a 6” diameter round stock they had that was 27” long. But think a square or rectangle might be more usefull having the straight edges to use.
  13. AngryDaddyBird

    Good steels for fire steels

    I’ve made hundreds with O1steel, W1 Drill Rod, Old Nicholson files, 5160 leaf springs, and 1095. My favorite is W1 and O1!
  14. AngryDaddyBird

    Hello from Spokane Wa!

    I have not looked. I can get pretty much any steel in block or round stock in any size. Just don’t want to spend the extra money unless it’s better. So I HC steel block I looked into is 88 lbs. 6”x8 face. Would that be a good start? I can get for less than half the price a 4”x8” x12” mild steel block. Does the weight make abig difference?
  15. AngryDaddyBird

    Hello from Spokane Wa!

    Sorry mild steel. My spell check is bad. If I get a mild steel block 4”x6” and 15” tall and weld a hardened face on it would that work? I’m guessing a hardened face would be ideal correct?