Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Can someone tell me what I have here. I can tell its a williams foster. Im currently working on building a forge. Before I could get my rail road track set up to hammer my first piece of metal I aquired this anvil. Know nothing at this point. Will I love or hate this? Approximate value? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 12 minutes ago, Scotty30815 said: Can someone tell me what I have here. It's an anvil. Okay, that was a bad joke. In all seriousness, Fosters are decent anvils, and as long as it's in reasonably good shape, it should serve you reasonably well. Can we get a shot of the face? How's the rebound? And remember, no grinding! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 What you have there is a London pattern anvil. William Fosters are date stamped so you have a date and it looks like 1838 so not considered really old for an anvil, (pre-1800 for those and it postdates the addition of a pritchel---generally in the 1820's) I have an 1828 WF myself that I use in the shop. Weight should be in CWT system. Any stampings on the other side? Value depends on LOCATION; here in Mexico that would be a lot cheaper than over in California, expensive in Australia; cheaper in England, etc. (World Wide Web---we have people participating in over 100 different countries here.) Note too that the condition of the face can change the value of an anvil by 50% and we haven't seen that yet. (Like selling a used car: the face of the anvil is the engine---having a good working engine ups the value of a used car a lot!) Will you love it: sort of depends on what you plan to use it for. Have you done the ball bearing test and the ring test? What were the results? What's the weight? Given that it passes the tests and is sized for what you want it to do you should have a good using anvil. Otherwise, otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Its got to be better than that rail road track that i was gonna rig up. Cant beat the price I paid for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 0-3-8 is the weight marking and indicates 92 pounds. Edges aren't great, but the face looks decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 So around $3 a pound. I'd say US$250 might be a decent price for it depending on how fast a seller wanted to sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Thats an 0 thought it was a c...how to I clean a anvil? Washcloth and vinegar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 30, 2018 Share Posted October 30, 2018 Wire brush on a drill or angle grinder and PPE a MUST. A wipe down on the sides with Boiled linseed oil if you want to keep it as the brush left it. DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE FACE, wire brushing is fine and then hot steel being hammered on it will polish it out nicely. Note WF anvils are prone to catastrophic failure if abused with overly large hammers on horn and heel. So only use a sledge in the sweet spot---if you must use one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 So i got black iron pipe...i got a hole in a box...i got wifes hairdryer...i got plenty of wood(not ideal i know)..i got my FREE anvil...and im talking to yall instead of running home to a warm fire and a hammer in hand??? Lol thanks yall are wonderful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 100% cotton jeans, 100% cotton shirt, safety goggles...lets fire it up... 100% cotton jeans, 100% cotton shirt, safety goggles...lets fire it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 30, 2018 Author Share Posted October 30, 2018 Successfully hammered iron...beginnings of tongs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 You are off to a good start. Now build a box with legs to raise the forge up to a comfortable height (JABOD). Get a tree stump to raise the anvil, you'll be in seventh heaven. A tip, cut the wood into smaller chunks to make charcoal faster. Welcome to the insanity... Next thing you know you will join ABANA and find an affiliated club near you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted October 31, 2018 Author Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) You have NO idea...for now im confortable with ground forge but as you said EVENTUALLY the forge will be tabletop...the anvil OMG has too be raised. 32oz framing hammer DOES NOT work...i used what i had...harbor freight engineering hammer in my near future. And ill be joining phillip morris artist blacksmith guild for xmas...yeap already had planned EXACTLY what you just said. Went xxxx backwards on my tongs...oh well vice grips will do..and i LEARNED. Edited October 31, 2018 by Mod34 Edited for inappropriate language Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 31, 2018 Share Posted October 31, 2018 I've welded up a billet using a framing hammer before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51 Papy Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Scotty Your camera may be lying or my old eyes but I hope that's not treated lumber your burning. Lots of bad stuff in that treating. You want to be around long enough to enjoy the insanity! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 Lumber yes...pressure treated no...id never burn pressure treated. Dont even like touching PT lumber. Its old dirty whitewood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 NO need for anything fancy, any smooth faced hammer will work fine. I recommend you not use heavier than 32 oz. till you develop some hammer control and I'm a huge fan of 32 o. drill hammers especially for starting out. Shorter handles make for better control and less fatigue. Take a look at the JABOD forge threads even if you don't put one in a box the way the bricks and tuyere are arranged is what makes them effective. That type forge has been in use for thousands of years, well before iron. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty30815 Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 On 11/1/2018 at 2:22 AM, Frosty said: I recommend you not use heavier than 32 oz. till you develop some hammer control Take a look at the JABOD forge threads. Frosty The Lucky. Yeah bought a 3 lb cross pien...for 2nd day at forge..im having to choke up on it. The JABOD forums are actually where i saw use a box. My uncle gave me several boxes of fire brick several years ago. Thinking even if i leave the forge in the ground but box it in with the bricks...itd probably help tremendously with heat retention. Went through a 55 gal drum of charcoal in several hours. (Turning 1/4 x 3/4 bar into tongs and unbending springs) But it DID get my flint striker to almost sparking which I hear is welding temp... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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