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I Forge Iron

T rex style build


671jungle

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Was not aware of exploding mortar. Been doing all my research on burners and not paying attention to other details. I guess there is no getting around expensive shipping for kastolite 30. I don't want to handle the ceramic blanket if I don't have to, But will if needed. Can I cast the whole thing in kastolite 30? Will that be ok? 

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Check the relative insulation value for Kastolite 30 and the high temperature insulation blanket.  There is a pretty big difference.  You certainly can make a forge completely out of kastolite, but for the same quantity of insulation it would have to be thicker.  Then you would have to deal with the added thermal mass.

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In reality, handling ceramic blanket probably isn’t any more dangerous than handling fiberglass insulation. Wear a particulate filtering mask, eye protection, do it outside, wash your clothes you wore while handling it by themselves and you will be fine. PM me your address and I will send you an OSHA approved mask for free.

Best

Steve

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Ceramic wool refractory blankets are NOT as dangerous as fiberglass until they're heated to their vitrification temp say bright red.

A dust mask welding cap and change of clothes will take care of any hazard. Typically lung problems develop after prolonged exposures, not always but usually.

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, as many before me I'm sure, I am diverting from my "what ifs" to proven methods. Going with inswool and kasto. While I wait for more kasto, I've completed the burner. Finally! Let me just say the satisfaction of hearing that roar for the first time is exhilarating! So tinkering and tuning Im looking for the neutral burn. Did I find it?

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Should I move this conversation? I still plan on experimenting with the :t-rex style burner. 

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First, these threads aren't dedicated to burner or forges in particular; they are open; no need to move the discussion.

The burner is running better, but as to running with a neutral flame; not quite. It is a good enough flame to serve well in your forge, but is lightly reducing. Many smiths deliberately tune their burners to a lightly reducing flame. The plus side is no scale formed on the work while it is in the forge. The down side is reduced efficiency in fuel use, and the need to run a fan to blow out fumes and carbon monoxide from the shop air.

If you wish to continue improving the burner, it doesn't need to be done all at one time, nor does the first burner need to be the final burner. People tend to work a little too hard at  painting themselves into a corner during the home stretch on their first burner and first forge. Every successful builder ends up making extra burners (perhaps in celebration); Why not build your second burner now, and  gain some wriggle room, instead of stressing about getting your first burner perfect?

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Funny you should say that. I've been daydreaming of a 3/8 burner for brazing and such. Maybe a modified side arm. The mikey ain't an easy task, and those needle filings are good at keeping things restless. I just ordered some of those diamond deburrers. 

Mike, your replies and information are priceless. Especially after the humorous yet constructive criticism on other threads. It's quite entertaining. Some take it way too personal. I think I have learned to read on and decipher before posting. Oh and trust the experience of elder curmudgeons.

Thanks again. 

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I have seen a proliferation of more than sufficiently hot burners built since I started learning this subject; my own burner is just one of a choice of designs. how much you want to get out of a burner is loosely related to how much you're willing to put into a burner, but is more closely dependent on how much you learn about burner principles. Otherwise the best advice is to choose a good design and follow the inventor's directions exactly. Of course one can always purchase a burner, but then we get back to knowing enough to choose the right one...:P

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  • 3 months later...

Back to this little project while the ribbon build takes a break. Need to heat some metal! 

I took a 3/4" mikey ejector slapped a 3/8" barrel with a 1/2" spacer and a 3/4" nozzle with a flared 1/2" spacer. Everything is pressfit. The entire system is 8". 

Some pics throughout. It is stable whole range of regulator. This thing is awesome!

1. Full blast 25psi, can't remember how choked.

2. 1ish psi mid choke.

3. Full blast very choked.

4. Don't remember pressure, choke almost fully open nozzle seems crooked.

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The solid blue flames in three of those photos are what your're looking for. The last photo shows an off center flame that is probably from the copper gas tube not centering the tip in the burner. Nevertheless, any of those solid blue flames will heat the forge up well, and leave no dragon's breath problems in your shop.

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