I'm working on a knife different from what I've done before. Most knives I've worked on have been large, Bowie-like monsters, done mostly on the grinder. I wanted to make something more portable and more "refined," so after a couple tries I came up with this rough sketch of a design. I was wondering if it has any major problems that would either prevent the knife from working or hinder it's use. It is an 8-inch full tang knife, probably going made with a hamon, and some exotic hardwood (likely Zebrawood or Cumaru) and copper for the handle, though I don't know if that information matters. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_3409.MOV

How about we move this to the knife section

I would ask " What is its intended purpose"?

Blade shape for myself is based on usage.. Or primary usage.. 

Hi Steven.

First thing, a photo would have been a little easier to look at instead of a .mov file, but I see it.

I do agree with JLP. What are you going to use it for? Use can help determine a lot of things. Handle geometry, belly/no belly/reverse belly in the blade, grind geometry, blade thickness....

I will offer my thoughts though since you asked. Remember, I am not an expert these are just my thoughts. The design you have circled has too much sweep in the handle. In my opinion, there should be a straighter axis along the spine for that shape of blade. (Spear point, clip point etc...)

That much sweep makes a good chopper, but you want either a straight edge or reverse belly like in the fist sketch. At only 8 inches OAL, that would be a pretty light chopper. With a deep belly like in your last sketch combined with that much sweep in the handle, you would have a very small sweet spot for chopping. I think (again only my opinion) that it will also make it difficult to have good control for slicing and normal cutting tasks with that much angle. It puts your edge out of alignment with your wrist and isn't very ergonomic.

I like the blade shape for a general purpose knife. It leave you a lot of options with a good point, moderate belly and slight recurve, I would just straighten out the handle a bit so it is more in line with the spine axis. Not board straight, just not as steep of a curve.

I would also add a choil for sharpening if it was one I was doing.

Hi, Steven. I see that you're new here, so if you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!

Can't access it at work; also suggest a simple picture!  Question though (shooting in the dark): how thick is the blade and any taper in the tang thickness?

First thing I thought seeing the drawing was it looks like a skinner. If that's its intended purpose, that's great, but I agree with "minion's" assessment - straighten the angle of the handle a bit.

Thanks for the feedback (and to whoever fixed my picture), I've straightened out the handle, and shortened the blade a bit as it looked a little too long straightened out.

PS, the bade is meant as a general use/hunting and woodcraft knife, meant to be carried in a sheath on your belt.

I have a skinner knife that looks like that. More like the first picture actually. 

So do I and I really don't like it much.

Mine folds in half, and I skinned a whole cow once. Works ok, although my wrist hurt when I finished. Should have used a bigger knife but was the only thing I had at the time. Cow died from poisoning with Cestrum and I did not want the hide to go to waste.  

Copper adds weight; I like carry stuff to be as light as possible.

For a general camp knife I'd want a little wider blade so it can be hit on the back.

For wood craft a little more rocker/belly would be nice so i could use the blade with a thumb and rocker motion for added control..

If its just as a general street carry knife (opening cans, cutting rope, opening boxes, light carving) than i think your design would be good.  Add a small guard for better personal defense blade without changing function..

For wood crafting it's best a scandi or full flat grind .