Gub410 Posted April 15, 2018 Posted April 15, 2018 I’m new and I’m makeing a coal forge for knife makeing i will be documenting it here Here are my pieces I’m useing for the frame I’m going to put them together soon for the legs I’m useing 29 inch pieces of assorted wood and a piece of particle board for the table section and the thin piece for the supports Quote
Gub410 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Posted April 16, 2018 I’m going to try making a different forge Quote
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted April 16, 2018 Posted April 16, 2018 15 hours ago, Gub410 said: I’m going to try making a different forge Probably a good idea. Quote
Gub410 Posted April 16, 2018 Author Posted April 16, 2018 This is first part done for new forge Quote
Glenn Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 What does the grate look like? What type of coal? Quote
Gub410 Posted April 17, 2018 Author Posted April 17, 2018 It looks like a bunch of 1/4 inch holes Quote
Glenn Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 You want air to get to the fuel so it can burn. A couple of 3/8 or 1/2 inch rods across the opening is all that is needed. Coal dust can be used with this type grate. Quote
Daswulf Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 What's the diameter and depth of the rotor? You'll really be better with something around 8-9" diameter and 2-3" deep. That one looks a bit deep. Quote
Gub410 Posted April 17, 2018 Author Posted April 17, 2018 I think it’s about 5 inches deep I think Quote
Daswulf Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 Sounds a bit deep for what you want. I like my 2" deep rotor. It's set into a metal plate table with fencing around it so if I Do need a little deeper fire I can stack fuel up but for smaller things and knives too it will be tough to get in the better part of the fire with that deep a forge pot/ rotor. Quote
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 No big problem, eliminate the “grate” and replace with a “bullet” grate made from a 2” or larger pipe cap with a 3/4 hole drilled in the center. This will do two things, raise the center of the fire and the slag Will role off forming a donut and not plug the hole Quote
Daswulf Posted April 17, 2018 Posted April 17, 2018 Did that on my demo forge rotor. So far it's working well. Just use the cap you have for the ash dump and go get a tractor exhaust rain/ flap cap for the ash dump, and bolt a weighted lever on it. Done and done. Quote
Frosty Posted April 18, 2018 Posted April 18, 2018 Instead of using a screw on cap for your ash dump, an exhaust flap cap as seen on semi trucks works much better. They clamp on and the counter weight holds them closed, to dump the ash simply reach under the forge table with whatever's in your hand and lift the counter weight. Another benefit comes when you get a little gas buildup and it pops. Sometimes it can be powerful enough pop to blow burning coals out of the forge but with a flap cap ash dump the pressure just opens the dump and it all falls in the bucket you keep under it. Frosty The Lucky. Quote
Gub410 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Posted April 19, 2018 Me and my grandfather welded it together and added places for the legs to go once I get them they are 1/2 fittings they should work that long piece is aluminum i have to be careful with it or the threads will come off Quote
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Posted April 19, 2018 Where's the table and fencing? Where's the cap fitting blow cap in the bottoming the pot? Where's the flap cap on the ash dump? Ugh.... That's a fuel eating inconvenient beast. Quote
Charles R. Stevens Posted April 19, 2018 Posted April 19, 2018 Das, are you bucking for a slot in the apprentice curmudgeon program? Lol keep this up and you and I will get our jurneymens pappers. Quote
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Posted April 19, 2018 Lol Charles, I don't know it all yet but I know some things pretty well, and some advise is important to get good results. I'm always willing to pay attention and try out better ideas to get better results and pass on what I've learned to others to help them work easier/better. Hah no I'm not worried about a slot in the curmudgeon realm. Just trying to help others get to forge with a chance at success. ( I'm sure all the curmudgeons agree on that point. ) been there, failed or succeeded at that. This works, that doesn't. Sure, I'm silly enough to forge tongs on a chunk of granite to see if I can. It works. But I can see this forge needs some help to work " well". Naw not " working" on curmudgeon status but I/ we might be them one day. You are darned closer then me lol. I did buy the bed pump to try out some jabod forges this summer. I might catch up I do know my brake rotor forge well. We have been going 4 or so years strong with minimal change. ( can't wait to say ten years lol. ) Oh, and the 2" flap cap does not fit 2" black pipe. Try a bigger size unless you have a welder. Frosty! Quote
Gub410 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Posted April 19, 2018 I might add the cap soon but for now I’m going to keep it like this for a bit until I get some more money (because I’ve got to buy gloves and some stuff for the legs ) Quote
Daswulf Posted April 19, 2018 Posted April 19, 2018 Sheet metal table top with a hole cut to fit the inner rotor diameter and what ever as a stand as long as it is sturdy. Flap cap can easily be made. Good welding time with your grandfather. Enjoy it. I missed out on so much that my grandfather and I could have bonded on and all kinds of knowledge I could have gained. Quote
Frosty Posted April 19, 2018 Posted April 19, 2018 Uh. . . . About the 2" flap cap not matching 2" black iron pipe. I've never tried them, I made mine from exhaust pipe and the sizes matched almost perfectly. I'll try to remember next time I make the suggestion, give me a kick if you notice me forgetting again. Frosty The Lucky. Quote
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