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I Forge Iron

Champion 400 blower


picker

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The shop I'm helping restore is an historic blacksmith shop circa 1920. It is located at a settlement park. There is a nice forge and plenty of good space. The shop is part of a relocation and restoration venue of old buildings - a church, dog trot homes, one room school house, train depot, and vintage homes that have been taken apart and restored.

The Champion 400 blower has some grinding, and slipping gears. I haven't taken one apart in 20 years. I'll be sure to make a video so I won't end up with extra pieces... I opened her up and took a good look - it's pretty clean, but the bronze gear teeth look a bit worn and thin. I'll replace the bearings and tighten up as much as possible. My questions: regarding tolerances and timing with the worm gear, are there any bushings on this gear? Also, the small queen gear seems to have a timing problem and isn't quite lining up with the larger gear, thus grinding. I tightened the internal screw and the nut, it seems to help the timing, but becomes too tight to crank freely. Any tips on this guy before I commit to it would be appreciated. Thnx.

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Hey thanks, I watched this yesterday. Gives me a bit of confidence. I think I tracked the problem as I was peeking into the works today. The worm gear isn't tight against the bronze gear, thus the grinding. I will overhaul it next week and provide an update. I'm hoping the bronze gear has enough life, and teeth to keep on working. Everything on outside of the unit looks okay. Brass caps are still in place, the housing isn't cracked and the impellers look fine, no bends or warps.

 

On 4/10/2018 at 10:40 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Where in Arkansas?  I'm originally from Fayetteville with my Father's kinfolk in Fort Smith and my Mother's in Cedarville.

I'm in central Arkansas, outside of Cabot near the Air force base.

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Appreciate that video---I also have one at our local museum that was on my list of eventual "projects" to get to and wasn't aware that he had made a video of this.  Helps a lot to not have to bumble my way through it.

One question to add to this discussion---color?  Our 400 is currently red and the paint actually looks "factory".  However, that doesn't make a lot of sense considering others I have seen over the years.  So...was there a factory color?  Is this great old paint job after-market by someone who took their time many years (decades) ago? 

Seeing the insides, I'm thinking this one needs to come off the floor also--currently, kids like to crank, some like maniacs.  That now seems pretty risky for that bronze gear.  We have a cheaper one with straight cut gears that can be used for the kids instead.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is the update on the 400 I'm overhauling...She hasn't lived a charmed life. She looks rough. The bronze gear looks pretty worn down. But, it seems all the parts are there down to the correct nuts and bolts. I thought the bushings on the bronze gear were going to be a tough nut, but they came out for the first time in over a hundred years. I'll replace the bearings, and clean her up good (big job), regrease her, and give her a nice coat of paint.

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That brass gear does look Worn from what I can see in the pictures.. the rest doesn't look so bad.

Here are pictures of one I'm working on. It doesn't slip and is just rusty on the outside and needs cleaned up. 

I am debating grease fittings in the bearing caps per a machinist friends recommendations. But anyway.... 

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24 minutes ago, picker said:

regrease her,

Nope, they are designed to run with oil. What appears to be grease is old dried out oil. or someone used grease which probably is why the brass gear has wear like that. Chainsaw bar oil with a little STP will work well. Don't over oil it because they all leak when full, just enough oil for the lower gear to ride in and sling the oil up will do.

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Finished putting the 400 back in service today. It was a real pleasure to work on. Every part and piece was inspected, cleaned and polished. In my haste I didn't think to open the top and photograph the gears and innards. Will post that tomorrow. I was just happy that it worked almost like new. IMG_20180427_181653.thumb.jpg.de0b5e127841938d599cbf352b1b4d24.jpgIMG_20180427_181700.thumb.jpg.70f8df2ae59c70bc860071323dd1be2d.jpg

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Finished putting the 400 back in service today. It was a real pleasure to work on. Every part and piece was inspected, cleaned and polished. In my haste I didn't think to open the top and photograph the gears and innards. Will post that tomorrow. I was just happy that it worked almost like new. IMG_20180427_181653.thumb.jpg.de0b5e127841938d599cbf352b1b4d24.jpgIMG_20180427_181700.thumb.jpg.70f8df2ae59c70bc860071323dd1be2d.jpg

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Beautiful, she cleans up nice eh?  Remember just a FEW drops of oil! I use chainsaw bar oil and a motor oil friction reducing additive, STP wouldn't do here the stuff congeals like a rock in winter. Oil good!:) Grease BAD!:angry:

The problem with grease is it doesn't sling and when contact surfaces push it off it doesn't seep back like oil will. Grease doesn't work on the guides on my Little Giant where you'd think the thicker stickier stuff would but a little oil works a LOT better. Grease needs to be contained like in a wheel bearing and there isn't anything like that on a Champ 400 blower.

Anybody know how Champion designated model #s? My Champ 400's crank and gears are 90* to the one shown. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks for this whole topic--it got me back on top of my personal one as well as "saving" the one from the museum from abuse to that bronze gear.  I've still got a stuck cover screw that is soaking so I don't break it off in disassembly but your results have inspired me.

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  • 2 months later...

Great pics! I'm in the midst of restoring one and have everything ready to go back together. The problem is that one of the bearing cones is unusable. I've been looking for one with no luck and I'm about to make one on a lathe. My lathe (sherline) is not made for much more than brass. Would a brass cone be sufficient knowing that the shaft is really not high speed or torque?

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If I remember correctly, the cones are hardened steel, so yes brass would work, just not for long. Also, I recall it's an odd size thread in the cone. Search the topics here for Champion 400, I know it's been discussed before.

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  • 1 month later...

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