Hans Richter Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Gents, this are my first knife attempts. From left to right a Welsh dagger 1st WW, a Indonesian Kerris with 5 'bugs' and a german hunting knife called 'Hirschfaenger' al made from ChroMo steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerMonkey Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Interesting styles Hans. They look very nice. How long is the blade on the Hirschfaenger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Hi Shady aka HM aka ……….. (dear men with the multiple personality), the blade is about 8in long. The blade is made from (AISI general for 18 Cr Mo???) blank, with a S355 pattern clad (stick)welding (Damascus for the poor men). Unfortunately most of the S355 disappears in to mill scale. So the next pattern weld will carried out in MAG and with a more noble cladding layer and less welding slack. The handle is plain sawed beech with a walnut stain application and an brass parietal. If you look at the dagger, his handle is made from quarter sawn natural beech handle witch I personal prefer. Use a Danish ten koruna coin as parietal there. Al the handles are treated with double boiled linseed oil. Will share the results of the next (blacksmith/ladies) knife made from the same base material. Cheers, Hans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerMonkey Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Lol, yes multiple personalities keeps life interesting, eh? Very nice job on the handle and finish Hans. Is the double boiled linseed oil food safe? or is that nothing to worry about on a knife handle? I ask as I am trying to decide how to finish a handle (hardwood over a hidden "tang"?) I made for one of my wife's pans. Thanks, Shady HM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Pure linseed oil is normally food approved because in some regions of Germany and in the Balkan region they us it as food like your butter jus over the potatoes, Schnitzel or steak. It’s also very healthy because of the amount of unsaturated fatty acids and folic acid like in fish oil. BUT if you buy it at a paint shop, there is a big chance the they mixed it with turpentine as an solvent (or others), which is a different story because this stuff is not zo healthy. To make shore it’s absolutely food approved -buy virgin linseed oil in a food shop and boil by yourself. First step boil it up till you see the bubbles rising up from the pan bottom (take care and don’t over heat), next step let it cool down to room temperature. After that boil it a second time like I describe, let it cool down and pass it through a sieve. After that its ready for application ones or two times still the grain is saturated. Be aware that the used wipes or cloth are susceptible for self-inflammation so store them outside, wash or burn them immediately. Reason for boiling is the speed of drying and readiness for use instead of waiting quit a long time the sticky virgin oil dries up. Ones you boiled it and store it in a air sealed container you can use is over and over again. To make is better paintable for non-food applications you can dilute with turpentine. I really hope to be helpful with that (JC …. actually I have to ask money for that ) Your sincerely, Hans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 FYI, in the US, raw linseed oil is often sold as "flaxseed oil" in health food stores. Same stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 JHCC - missing the thumph up between the emoticons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Addition!! By the way, -the above mentioned adding of one or another an-organic solvents also happens to other so called ‘natural’ products like organic oils or bees wax too, to dilute or make them better applicable. So read the list of ingredients carefully before use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Note that exposure to sunlight will also speed up polymerization (a whole lot faster where I'm at compared to Belgium). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HammerMonkey Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 16 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: Note that exposure to sunlight will also speed up polymerization (a whole lot faster where I'm at compared to Belgium). What is this "sunlight" you speak of? (says the guy in Seattle). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hans Richter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 36 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: Note that exposure to sunlight will also speed up polymerization (a whole lot faster where I'm at compared to Belgium). Thomas, I’m scared about you. Or did you read the weather forecast for Belgium this week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Here in New Mexico we average around 370 sunny days a year with UV ranging from Extremely High to "Death Rays set on OverKill!" I've lived in gloomy climates before; a lot easier to find shade than to make sunlight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 1 hour ago, ThomasPowers said: Here in New Mexico we average around 370 sunny days a year with UV ranging from Extremely High to "Death Rays set on OverKill!" I've lived in gloomy climates before; a lot easier to find shade than to make sunlight! Well, in the civilized world we have these things in every room, flip a switch and viola, UV safe sunlight substitute! It's a LOT easier to get warm than cool off. You can add clothes till you can hardly move but you can only take so much off. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jclonts82 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 1 hour ago, Frosty said: you can only take so much off. i respectfully disagree... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidF Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 10 hours ago, HammerMonkey said: What is this "sunlight" you speak of? (says the guy in Seattle). Lol! I have spent some time in Seattle. I think the best answer for your question is that it is similar to the light from a street lamp! 7 hours ago, Frosty said: Well, in the civilized world we have these things in every room, flip a switch and viola, UV safe sunlight substitute! How many consecutive days of no sunlight do you have in Alaska? I remember a movie “30 days of night” and a documentary where they showed sunlight during the night and no sun during the day. In the documentary, they actually talked about how it affected residents physical health. I can’t sleep if it is not pitch black. But I could probably live off of UV light emitting sources. So I would go crazier during one phase and be just fine for the next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 6 hours ago, Jclonts82 said: i respectfully disagree... lol I suppose to folks living in such inhumanly HOT environments having yourself skinned to escape the heat might not sound unreasonable. It'd stop the burn I suppose. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 But sunlight makes such a good preheat for your stock when smithing---I don't generally wear gloves smithing but boy I use do when I'm at the scrapyard or digging in my scrap pile! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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