Been making axes following Gerald Boggs tutorial on Mark Asperys YouTube channel and having trouble with the weld closest to the eye splitting when I do the final drift for the eye. Prior to drifting I was able to hammer the edges with no splitting and grinded the welded area and the weld looked good. But when I drift it splits. Any words of advice other than practice my forge welding which is my current plan? Is this a common problem? Will this type of weld hold against an aggressive drift? I tried to attach a pic of the step I am referencing.

Thanks

Cody

nope none. not with the limitations given

Might help to add what steel and flux you are using. 

I don't have answers, since I haven't tried one yet but just so other can better help. 

Could you be working it too cold? Need to keep the temp up when working around a weld. 

Mild steel for the axe body.

1075 for the bit. The bit weld seems to be good but then again that weld is not being tested by a drift.

iron mountain flux to set weld, then borax

 

Steve, what does limitations given mean?

you said you dont want to hear about forge welding problems so  I didnt, kinda limits the  answers tho

Yes I would have asked how many welding runs did you make on it as welds improve with being worked.

As you've already narrowed it down to the two possible problems:  Not a solid weld or being too aggressive with the drift.  Lets assume the weld is fair to better, try drifting with the axe in the vice, that way the stress of drifting to taken away.   And if you're not already doing this, try drifting in several short steps and lightly forge the sides, repeat.  Remember, the eye should already be the size you want, all you're doing is shaping it.

 

Hope this helps.

Thank-you Gerald. I never thought of putting it in the vise. My weld seemed fair at the time but I need more practice with them. I certainly could have been drifting too aggressive also. I will slow down.  That is a great tutorial you put together on YouTube. I have made quite a few different axes using that approach but have always struggled with eye weld.

 

thanks again, Cody

 

 

 

 

 

 

6 hours ago, Gerald Boggs said:

Remember, the eye should already be the size you want, all you're doing is shaping it.

In my experience, this is the key.  You should be thinking of this as a mandrel, not really a drift at all.  Hitting down onto the sides of the axe will thin and shape the cheeks as opposed to stressing the joint at the front of the eye (which can be a weak point in any wrap and weld tool eye).

In addition to the use of the vise that Gerald mentions, there are a couple of other tricks to forming the front of the eye that I've used: 

1. Fullering the preform at the area of the joint so you have a sharper transition at that initial weld location
2. Keeping the non-eye portion of the axe thicker than the eye section (you are already doing this)
3. Using a round crossection cape chisel to refine the front end of the eye after initial shaping
4. If all else fails, there is always use of a round file to finalize the shape.

2 hours ago, Latticino said:

1. If all else fails, there is always use of a round file to finalize the shape.

Many times :-)

I will have to research what a cape chisel is, but thanks for all the advice. I have attached some pics of the preform of the axe in the initial pic. When I try again using your guys tips I will post some pics of hopefully a clean eye!

From the photo, it looks as if your transitions are soft.  You can tidy them up like Latticino said, " Fullering the preform at the area of the joint so you have a sharper transition at that initial weld location"  It's what James Austin does with his axes.  He also adds a very thing piece of high carbon between the sides, says he gets a better weld.  That last is is something I've heard others say, that welding high to low is easier then low to low.

 

What a cape chisel is, what it's used for and how to make it, is in Mark Aspery's first book.  On the subject of Mark, the article was a collaboration.  I did all the forging, but he did most of the rest :-)

Thanks for the follow up Gerald. I looked up pics of the cape chisels. Should have referenced Mark’s book as all three are on my shelf. Here is a pic of the shoulders of one that I worked on tonight prior to the fold. Quit shortly after that as my 100lb propane tank got too low in fuel to get the forge to welding temps. Lots of great tips!!

Thanks for all the tips Gerald and Latticino! Here are some pics of a couple axes made since I posted. They are getting better.