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I Forge Iron

Introduction


DaveGas

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Hello all,

My name is Dave and I got in to blacksmithing about two years ago. I have no idea what brought me to the trade but I am glad I did. It's a hobby for me as the job that pays is being a police officer. I'm located 10 minutes west of Pittsburgh and am currently operating out of a 12x16 shed.

The first thing I ever forged was a fire poker and a sad excuse of a railroad spike knife. I've since moved on to candle wall sconces and door knockers. My latest and largest project is a two tier, 12 light ring chandelier.

Anyway, I just wanted to introduce myself and give a little background.

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Those sconces look great. Nice symmetry on the scrolls. 

Yeah the spike knives are much improved. I have a bunch of knives I have yet to finish. There's just so much other stuff I like to do when I get the time that I can get side tracked. 

Have you tried to make any knives from coil spring yet?

 

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Not yet but I have 4 springs off a Polaris ranger that I replaced last year that have been patiently sitting next to the anvil. 

I recently acquired an anchor (baby) that has been putting a damper on my free time. I'm hoping to get a hammer in his hands by mid summer though!

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They look incredible Dave. Have you ever been accused of being a bit of a perfectionist? Looking at the symmetry, I know how much effort, time, and pride those take. Also, did you round all of the tube pieces? They look very nice. Last question, I love the calligraphy style numbers and letters. Did you cut those out and did you texture them? They looks like you put a texture on them and polished them to a high level. They really standout well against the sconces. Now I can’t wait to see the chandelier. 

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Definitely heard the perfectionist line before. As for the round stock I just started with 3/16" solid round and scrolled them. I found the letters and numbers on an online shop actually so I can't take credit for them. I used a silver leaf pen to color them (copper looks great also). 

Just got the arms riveted on to the 30" chandelier ring today so I've attached a picture of that. Still have to add the candle trays and sockets once the nipples come in but it's coming along.

IMG_20180226_174332270~3.jpg

IMG_20180226_183422303.jpg

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33 minutes ago, DavidF said:

Love that chandelier design. Post updates when you get the nipples and the work done. 

Just got the hanging rings on today. See below. I might resize the rings to 3 inch instead of 4 but I haven't decided for sure.

 

6 minutes ago, Marc1 said:

DaveGas, do you bend the thinner scrolls cold or hot? 

IMG_20180110_215717829~2.jpg

I bend them hot. I usually bend them at the same time as the main scroll so if you stack all the scrolled pieces they will match perfectly. I also cut the pieces from the same stock; pretty standard stuff for us but when you tell a customer "all the same size pieces are cut from the same stock so if you unrolled everything you can match the cuts together perfectly" they eat it up. :)

IMG_20180227_173617328.jpg

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Depending on the stock I don't flatten the ends if they fit the bender. The larger tubes I must flatten based on thickness. As long as it's hot this bender has no problem bending flat bar 3/8 x 4". Hot only, would probably snap the handle on 3/16 cold.

scroll-bender-mpb10.jpg

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It takes very little to forge the start of the scroll even if you then roll it cold and the result is a much nicer scroll, but I don't want to tell you how to do your work.

I am intrigued by those tube scrolls you use for the chandelier. How do you get the groove? Do you have a Hebo scrolling machine or you buy the scrolls ready made? 

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I thank you both for your input and it will be assimilated.

The scrolls for the light arms were bought. I needed the grove to assist in hiding the wires as the wire fits in the channel. Long story short, the 3/4 tubing I had and scrolled was too big and overpowered the pieces even though the wiring was completely hidden. 1/2 was too small. Then I went with 5/8 and while they fit nicely proportionally, there wasn't enough room on the inside for wiring through the scrolled end so there was a 2 inch wire run on the exterior. My solution to aide in that was to purchase these as the wiring stays in the contour of the grove. The bender I was using also put groves in the tubing the wire rested on top instead of inside and my jigs wouldn't put a grove at all.

This is a project I am doing for my living room and is the first one I've ever attempted so there is a massive learning curve on my part. On the upside I am learning a lot about proportional pieces.

 

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11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

The flat ends really detract from the piece because as mentioned they are generally indicative of machine made stuff 

 

11 hours ago, Marc1 said:

It takes very little to forge the start of the scroll even if you then roll it cold and the result is a much nicer scroll, but I don't want to tell you how to do your work.

I am intrigued by those tube scrolls you use for the chandelier. How do you get the groove? Do you have a Hebo scrolling machine or you buy the scrolls ready made? 

While I have both of you here what would you recommend for the square stock? Taper then scroll, flatten then scroll, or flare and scroll? 

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