J W Bennett Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 I remember reading a piece on making an acorn swage some time back. not really sure where I read it. I didn't find anything in the bp's. Can anybody give me some pointers. I am going to try to make one this evening. Thanks, john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trying-it Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 Swage dies are a two-step process. First make your master (piece that is exactly what you want to copy). Take 2pcs of die material (car leaf spring, etc), bring both pieces to a high forge heat, insert unheated pattern piece in between, and press or hammer to stamp/transfer design to both die halves. Heat treat dies if desired, add a spring to make spring swage assembly. Should now be good to go. Just bring some stock to forge heat, insert between dies, and hammer. Original patterns for making dies can be forged, or in the case of acorn swage, a lathe comes in handy.http://www.artmetal.com/images/furniture_gallery/bill_roberts/2007/11/acorn_masters_and_dies Hope this helps! Good luck and BE safe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted April 2, 2008 Author Share Posted April 2, 2008 Stan, Thanks for the info, I had googled "Acorn Swage" and had went to that site. The one I was thinking of involved a dremel tool/die grinder but I can't find it now. I guess I will forge a master and then stamp the dies. Once again thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted April 2, 2008 Share Posted April 2, 2008 You will need to round all the edges some to eliminate cold shuts. After you do the dies then take them apart and round all the corners with a die grinder. Then put back together and heat up some metal and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornametalsmith Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 I was just about to add some photos of some acorn swages I'd made for a HUGE table project that I did. .......but........after reading the "trying it" post........that link to Artmetal has the same images. sweeeeeeet FWIW, I used a grinder and file to make the acorn masters. AND..Stretch's advice of "softening" the edges of the dies before using them is very important. here are a FEW of the many acorns that were needed for the table project.After forging.....in the swage I went back and added the lil detail on the "caps". and a shot of them finished: Don't forget to send pix of your spring swage when you get R dun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 those acorns on ArtMetal look so much better than any I've seen made from store bought spring swages. Anyone got a set for sale or know where they can be obtained? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zsartell Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 I made one a while back. I used my mini lathe to cut out the master and smashed it between two pieces of mild steel. I then opened it up and used a die grinder to take down the sharp edges. I also drilled a hole the size of the nipple I wanted down the center of the tip of the swage. When done forging an acorn I usually had a nipple that was 2" or longer sticking out the end. I just cut the off and quickly shape just the nipple up on the belt sander. When I get a chance I'll post some pictures. After the swage is made the key is to round the tip of the starting piece so you minimize the amount of material that has to be squeezed out both ends. When we first built it it took about 5 or 6 heats to get it to look somewhat decent. After some fiddling with how far we put the initial piece in and how we ground the sharp edges off the inside of the swage we got it to look really nice after 1 or 2 heats. I have to give credit to Steve Alling with helping me make this swage and the use of his tools. Gotta love that KA75 for those big hits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 I know a fella that has an acorn swage. I believe he bought the dies from Centaur but I could be wrong. He welded the spring handle ( that he made ) on to the dies. Will see if I can contact him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 The key to forging acorns between dies is to neck the stem area down prior to inserting into the dies for the shaping, The amount to leave from the end of the bar can be determined and noted for future reference. I usually keep a sample fastened to the swage handles and a sample of a pre opped item / non destructible reference to bar sizes used at some future date when I have a senior moment trying to recall "How did I do that?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted April 4, 2008 Author Share Posted April 4, 2008 Thanks for all the input fellas, Had 2 bad days and haven't gotten into the shop yet. I will post pics of what I come up with. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornametalsmith Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 The key to forging acorns between dies is to neck the stem area down prior to inserting into the dies for the shaping, The amount to leave from the end of the bar can be determined and noted for future reference. I usually keep a sample fastened to the swage handles and a sample of a pre opped item / non destructible reference to bar sizes used at some future date when I have a senior moment trying to recall "How did I do that?" Great point, John. It's an important step in using any swages like these. You need to isolate enough mass to make the component. And your TIP on a sample ROX.....:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtforge Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 When I make my spring dies I like to use two pieces of stock thick enough to let the master sink in and have some meat left so it doesn't wear through. I bend up the spring part and weld it onto the die blanks. Heat it up, put the master into it and work it under the power hammer while turning the master. I set it off to the side and let it cool. I relieve the edges with a die grinder. When I make a part I like to squirt some oil into both cavities to keep the scale from sticking to the part. Heat the metal up and put it between the dies and gently hit it under the power hammer while rotating the metal. When it's partway formed I can hit harder and rotate more. When the dies close it's done. Usually in one heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 Thanks again for all the replies and info. I finished the master acorn and the swedge late last night. Did get 2 acorns made with the swedge that turned out good. Had to work this morning so I will try to get some pictures taken today. Once again thanks to all who replied, The info was appreciated and put to use. John:):D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 I cheated and used black pipe to form acorns, and large 1 inch balls. BP0203 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devon blacksmith Posted April 20, 2008 Share Posted April 20, 2008 Hi before I had a lathe I used the piller drill and angle grinder to make my masters after I ground them I finished them in the drill with a file Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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