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hello guys !
How are you ?

I buy a c41-15 power hammer, but it will arrive on may ....

it's work for

1 3/16 square
1 3/8 round

all specification
New Page 1

for me is the best way, low cost low it occupies little space.

the quality of product is better than the past years, many importers buy anyang hammer, uk, de, usa, india, romania etc etc

I will try and then I will make to know you, with photo and the other tolls dgt


have a good day !

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We used a 33 anyang a couple weeks ago for a tong-making workshop. A couple things I found of interest:

The oiler is junk. It went from not oiling, to dumping a solid stream and draining itself, at its own schedule. The adjustment screw is goofy. I worry about this kind of thing probably more than most, I had to shut the hammer down often to add more oil.

The bottom die kept working loose, we kept it in check by wrapping the wedge key with a slice of beer can. This could be fixed by making a new key. The dies were all a bit different dimension, necessitating the need to keep individual keys for each different die. This made it inconvienient to switch from flat dies to drawing dies.

It didn't start hitting hard until 20-30 minutes after startup. I was told that if it gets used often, it gets better, but don't know for sure.

It had moments where it worked quite well. It's affordable, but I worry about technical support issues a year or three down the road.

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Hey guys, I sell the little fellas in the UK (thats a link to my site!) The oilers are fine, its the non return valve thats junk. If you take the ball and spring from the cylinder connection, and fit a decent one just above the oiler they work perfectly.

They do take 5 or ten mins to start making full power, if they take any longer than this the ram piston rings are tight in the ram bore. It is a 5 min job to ease them (crown them off) slightly.

The dies should not work loose, Ive never had this problem with them - I keep talking to my customers after they buy from me and its never been reported back. The hammers use an industry standard 1:100 7 degree key arrangement.

I run them all before shipping to my customers in the UK & Ireland and 'iron out' any potential niggles (like the lube system). All in all I think they are a decent little machine (90% of what I do is industrial forging machinery, so know a bit about hammers :)

feel free to ask me any questions about them - Ill have a shot at answering them !

edit. the page is from my site MasseyAnyang

my main website for hammers is index

one more edit ...... Last week I lent a 33lb anyang to a 'forge in' event in the uk, heres a photo of it in use. FERRUM - Daniel Gentile- powered by SmugMug

The people who used the 33 lb hammer ( aka 'the woodpecker') are posting their thoughts and reviews in this thread on the forum 'britishblades.com' thoughts on the wood pecker ? - British Blades :: Custom Knife Making

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John, thank you for ringing in on this! I know several folks that are on pins and needles with user support since Mr. Graham passed away earlier this year in California. Would you please post a photo of the oiler fix (Take this out of there and put a new one here) and maybe a photo of crowning the rings for quicker take off? The Anyang we were using is at a museum/volunteer school, I'm on a quest to get more people in my region to feel more comfortable using hammers. The 33# is a great size to not intimidate folks but still get some work done. If we can tune this one up in a morning, I'm sure it will have a positive impact.
Also, does anyone know if someone is taking up the USA franchise for anyang? I love my old mechanical hammer, but have known that if it crashes hard, I could drive to Grahams and have a new hammer running in a few days if in the middle of a big job.

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Hello guys !

probably I became the Italian importer, but I must still take one definitive decision.

first I try my hammer, and after I can built a site with many photo specification ed modified to improve this item.

4 weeks and arrived to my house, at very very low price.

I don't now but I will inquire on the shipping costs to ship in usa.

I can take at lower price, we are in negotiation.

Stay tyned !

Have a nice days !

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There are one or two people in discussion about picking up the USA distribution I know of, be patient and im sure there will be news in a couple of weeks or so.

I will post some pics of the oiler (well, non return valve) mods, and the way I crown the rings off, they are on my works computer, so might be a day or 2 (im pulled out busy at the moment), jobs that pay the mortgage are having to take priority!!!

Ive sold a lot of the 33lb hammers, and I test them all before they go out. some require a warm up , some dont. Air hammers all have an individual 'signature' , and no 2 are identical. I was taught this by time served 'Massey' hammer engineers. It is to do with subtle differences in the casting for the air ways etc inside the machine.

To cut a long story short the ones that take (in my opinion) to long to warm up I relieve the piston rings to reduce the friction area between the rings and the ram bore.

heres a photo of a chunky billet being welded up on the 33lb at Owen Bush (bladesmith) recent sword forge in event in London UK. This is my 'demo' hammer that I lend to forge ins for folks to try!

5814.attach

5815.attach

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I would like to Thank anyone with any info on any kind of PH ! :) I have on site and working
Anyang #33 & in the works a #65 champion
Mark why what was the problem ? & yes I had problems with oiler or I should say the one
way valve on top of oiler and the one that go's in to the hammer, that needs to be fixed !
/ replaced with something better, not a big deal If you ? it take it off PH and blow through
it both ways if it works both ways its junk should ONLY go one way ! / oil flow in to hammer

Again Thanks for Info :)

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This photo shows the modification I do to the lubrication system on the Anyang hammers,

The 15kg (33lb) Anyang hammer only has one oil feed pipe, but the principle is the same,

The factory 'non return' valve is in the connector where the oil pipe enters the cylinder of the machine, just remove the ball and spring from this.

With the new non return valve fitted the oil flow can be set exactly, with a very consistant 1 drop every 10 seconds, or whatever is right for your machine so the ram is slightly oiley in use.

When you fit the valve check that the oil is getting past it, ie the spring is not to heavy in the non return valve. This is easy to check on the later hammers with clear oil lines. It is easy to convert the earlier copper piped hammers to clear lines. 5 min job!

I make this modification to all hammers prior to shipping to customers.

Hope this helps some folks!

lubemods_1.jpg

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Some 33 lb hammers take a while to warm up. In my opinion this is because the piston rings are tight in the ram bore, and the ram does not have enough mass / inertia to overcome this friction until the hammer is hot and 'loosened up'.

Crownedpistonrings.jpg
I modify the piston rings on a belt finisher to change the external profile. I leave a 'land' in the middle that is still flat & thus proves the pneumatic seal required. If you are going to do this do it 'little by little' until the hammer feels right. There is a knack to removing the piston rings. I forge the ends of a few nails flat on the anvil and use them as little 'tire levers'! - its still easy to stab a screwdriver through your hand removing them (yup, I've done it) so be careful! :) - hopefully the sketch below makes this clearer.

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John, the pictures are a great help, thanks. I'm a bit muddy on the non-return valve. I researched mcmaster-carr, McMaster-Carr which is one of the bigger industrial suppliers in the USA. I went to 'process contol' on the front page, then clicked on 'check valves' . The two that looked like what you use are either 'ball check valves', or 'spring loaded check valves'. They both look like they would work. There seems to be a choice of cracking pressures, 1 PSI, or 2PSI. Am I on the right track here? Which type would you recommend?

Thanks again for helping with this. Bob Graham never seemed overly concerned with little issues like this, I appreciate that you've identified a problem, and found a fix.
mike

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Hi mike, the check valves I fit are spring loaded, though I dont know how necessary it is. I think I would go for the 1psi spring loaded. (havent a clue what the ones I fit are, with lube stuff I am usually just happy if I manage to get the right fittings etc, and the jobs not held up for a missing 5/16" olive !!)

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  • 1 month later...
I know several folks that are on pins and needles with user support since Mr. Graham passed away earlier this year in California. Also, does anyone know if someone is taking up the USA franchise for anyang?


Mike, You NEED to visit a site called IForgeIron.com !!

The IForgeIron members may be able to help you. Post your questions in the forum and I feel sure they will answer your question, or find the answer for you.

JohnN - John Nicholson, UK Distributor Anyang

SteveH - Steve Hansl, Canada Distributor Anyang

Jamesrjohnson - James Johnson, USA Distributor Anyang

Moony - Glenn Moon, Australian distributor Anyang


The members of IForgeIron are very knowledgeable people, with diverse skills and expertise in many areas including blacksmithing. In this case four IForgeIron members, from four different parts of the world, are available to answer your question or assist you with your machine. Mike, as I said, You NEED to visit a site called IForgeIron.com !! (grin)
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I know both Glenn Moon and John Nicholson personally and I can say without hesitation that they are both totally genuine blokes and a fountain of knowledge on these hammers as well as a heck of a lot of other stuff. My two favourite hammers were made with Moony and a lot of my favourite beer (free) was drunk with John. Great blokes and an asset to the site.

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