Rookiesmith Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I am amazed at the work you guys do , lts been 7 months since I wanted to start working but have been short on time. But I never stop looking for tools and such . Just have my best find yet on c list a Hay Budden 122 lbs ss 202906 and wondered if someone could help me with year . Thank you in advance. Hi guys , I amazed at your work , but have been short on time to start smithing . Always keeping eyes open for equipment and stumbled into good find . Serial 202906 if you can help me date . Saw on c-list and it ended up a friend of my dads sons . HB 122lb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lionel h Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 I’m sure someone with AIA will chime in soon , but I would like to compliment you on a very nice anvil that looks to be in great shape. Have fun using it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 AIA says 1913. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Thank you for your time and kind words .My dads been gone 14 yrs and a swear he helped me find this anvil, randon c list listing in county I grew up in,after talking to seller he was one of my dads friends son from church years ago. He recieved a ton of calls some offering more money but seller pulled listing and honored me being the first caller.Its refreshing to see old school integrity is still out there today, sorry so long winded thought it was worth mentioning . Thank you and thanx for sharing all your knowledge with complete strangers . Merry Christms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lionel h Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Yes your story is worth mentioning, now when you get going make him a thank you present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Welcome to the forum Rookiesmith. We love stories like yours. So many times the tools we find have no history behind them. So cool that this fine anvil has circled back to you. Merry Christmas & Happy New Year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Thank you guys , your right about present to seller .Researching how to make my own hardy tools , should I start with slightly oversized soft steel ,drive into hole and shape after that or start with 7/8 stock cut longer than needed forge sqaush down and drive into hole for net fit . I would think loose fit and hammering would cause anvil damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Here is a good thread about anvil hardy's. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/42651-advice-on-forging-a-hardy-cutoff/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njanvilman Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 17 hours ago, Rookiesmith said: Thank you guys , your right about present to seller .Researching how to make my own hardy tools , should I start with slightly oversized soft steel ,drive into hole and shape after that or start with 7/8 stock cut longer than needed forge sqaush down and drive into hole for net fit . I would think loose fit and hammering would cause anvil damage. I would never drive any oversized steel into the hardy. You are looking at getting it stuck in the hole, or breaking off the end of your anvil. Just heat and hammer it until it fits. File or lightly grind if needed for final fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Thank you thankyou , I was concerned about damaging anvil, is it a bad thing to make inner hardy post and weld on hot cut or what ever other attachments I need . I can make authentic hardys when I have more experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 I hat to have to tell you; but welding on the stem to hardy tooling is an authentic method. At least it goes back as far as the hardy hole does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Do you forge weld ? I was going to arc weld them and grind weld to fit hole nicely, just to get hammering. So much to learn and dam working for a living gets in the way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Some of them were forge welded way back when; most nowadays are arc welded when folks don't have access to a good powerhammer (and some I've seen sort of between the two were O-A welded. Blacksmiths tend not to be fussy, my saying is : "There is only *one* correct way to make something smithing and that is: ANY WAY THAT WORKS!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ok, that sounds good, any paticular book out there you would recommend ? I have to start by getting some failures behind me I understand that . I need to read and learn more about metal and smithing , me and my beat our brains out trying to work ferriers files lol , then read they needed to be annealed first. We have to pull everthing outside set up and work and put everthing back inside. Working on putting some lighting in pole building i park tractor in so I only have to run extention cord out there to work .Sould get to work more this way . Thank you for input , you guys are so helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 There is an entire forum dedicated to books https://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/40-book-reviews/ As a starter book I like "The Complete Modern Blacksmith" as it's a very scrounger, DIY viewpoint. Other people like other books. I suggest you ask your local public library about ILL as it's often possible to bring in a book from elsewhere and preview it before you decide to buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Annealing files/ rasps for grinding or drilling but don't bother annealing for forging as the metal will work the same at forging heat wether you started with it annealed or hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 I am using forgemaster dual burner ferrier forge , is it possible it doesnt get files hot enough? There was no drawing and movement was minimal . I am no stranger to hard work and used 3-5 lb cross peens and it was nothing like watching guys on videos pretty effortlessly drawing metal out. Maybe they are using soft steel, but we spent hours to get them down a knife edge , so frustated I cut out tang shape eith cut off saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 What temperature were you working them at? (A common mistake we get is people heating things up to the old books' suggestion of "Cherry Red"; but not realizing that those were the old orange/yellow Pie Cherries and not the dark red/black Bing cherries we are more familiar with nowadays.) And, yes, the higher carbon alloys are much harder to forge---good thing you have lots of experience forging before working with them! (otherwise it's like someone telling you they are taking up running and plan to enter a marathon the next weekend...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Just starting out it can be difficult to gauge forging temperatures on different alloys. Experience makes that easier with time. Higher carbon and alloy steels will be harder to forge then the mild steel, and have a narrower temperature range to work within. I couldn't say if your forge is getting to temperature or not. There are many factors to that and I have no experience with gas forges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 On the other hand I've been using a propane forge for several decades now---but not a "forgemaster dual burner farrier's forge". I assume you are using a regulator with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 As far as temperature I do not have anything more than printed color page chart off computerwith heat ranges. At first me and my 14 yr old ,we will call him Eric left in forge until what we thought looked orange and started working it as time went on he would forge I would hammer back and forth , in all honesty we probably rushed the process . I was warned if heated to sparkler white steel is ruined . And your unquestionably right I should never have started with this material , it was what I had. I need to make s hook fixture or something and start slower. Read more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustAnotherViking Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 You may also find that changing the size of the hammer doesn't necessarily mean you'll move more or less metal with it. I can move more steel, more quickly with my 2.5# than I can with my 4#. All down to technique and practice. I'm slowly improving my heavier hammer technique, but due to the extra weight I don't have the same level of control. Then again I'm only a beginner. Other people likely have different experiences, this is just mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Point takin , there are so many variables , need to get moving .ps Eric (king forever) norse name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Using a good alloy for the project at hand helps immensely! Your are almost unique in using a high carbon piece to make an item where low carbon would work fine. What we usually get is people who try to make knives from low carbon alloys and then want to know why heat treating them doesn't work! It is cost effective to buy steel rather than spend hours hammering it down into something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookiesmith Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ok , will do for knives thank you for the time savings , picked up a dozen or so 5-6 rail road spikes at estate sale for the raw material box . Metal working just brought my pack -rat level up at least two notches! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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