First Anvil Purchase - Need advice

[Helmetface]

I've been searching for an anvil for a while and they're quite expensive locally- around $4+ a lbs.

My primary interest lies in blademithing, both utility and kitchenware. Though, I am very intrigued with larger scale work, as well.

I found a 120lbs William Foster, listed for $340. It's been listed for a while, so I'm hoping I can talk the seller down, a little...

I've read about the tests that should be performed: hitting it with a hammer and listening, dropping a ball bearing, etc. But how does it look to your seasoned eyes? I see no delam, or cracking, just some serious work that's been lain on this hunk of metal.

Just looking for opinions. It's not my intention to steal it, but I want to be sure I'm not getting hosed.

Thanks!

 

 

[Daswulf]

It "looks" fine to me. Never hurts to try to get it at a lower price, worst they can say is no. It's an investment in a tool that should last beyond your lifetime. If you can sell the work you make using it then it will pay for itself, and you can always upgrade later if you need to without it losing value.

[Helmetface]

Thanks for the fast reply, Wulf. I'm sure posts like this are a dime a' dozen around here...

I was mostly concerned with the rounded/bludgeoned edges around the table and face. As well as the dents on the tip of the horn. 

But again, it's my first anvil, so I just wasn't sure. 

[Lionel h]

Looks good to me too , all you need to do that anvil is use it . H ave fun !

[Marc1]

Check around the base of the horn for cracks. Apparently this anvil's' horn was butt welded to the body and it can come off ... according to 'anvilfire' 

[Yuppiejr]

Honestly that anvil would have sold around here already at that price, you are comfortably under $3 a pound, $4-5 a pound is the new normal unless there's a clear defect in play.  I'd offer $300 but be prepared to pay their asking price without reservation.  Most of the anvils of that era were butt-welded together in various pieces, nothing to be alarmed with if you see the forge welded seams, it's just the way they were made back then.   I seem to recall WF's don't ring much, though it should bounce a ball bearing at least 5-6" dropped from 10".   The chips/wear to the edges and horn are typical of an anvil that's been used, it also looks like there's a bit of sway in the face which is also typical.  You can verify this by laying a 12" straight edge lengthwise on the face of the anvil and look for gaps

I really like the structure of that anvil for blacksmithing, she's got a thick waist which puts more of the mass under the hammer unlike the more common/new ductile iron farrier anvils which have narrow waists and long sweeping horns better suited to shoeing horses. Assuming the seller hasn't simply forgotten to delete their post after the sale I'd be moving fast on that deal.

[ThomasPowers]

If you need a sharp edge make a simple hardy tool   I have a 125 year old book on smithing that has in it a line to the effect that "is anyone still so stupid as thinking anvils should have sharp edges?  I guess they just don't understand smithing!"

That anvil looks to be in fine using shape.  Whatever you do DON'T GRIND OR MILL OR WELD ON IT!

[Helmetface]

Hey all, thank you VERY much for the replies.

 

Ill be back

[Dylan Sawicki]

Did you get it??