canman Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 How does the tire hammer work? I see the flywheel but I do not understand the arms and spring connected to hammer. Any one have a print or something to go by. I would like to see one up close and personal.:D Any one near Rome Ga. have one I could see?:confused: Thanks, Canman:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 How does it work? Very well, thank-you! The flyweel has an offset crankpin that the pitman attaches too and the arms/spring to the pitman and the hammer head to the arms/spring assembly. As the flywheel turns it pulls the hammer head up and then down---due to the offset crankpin. The spring allows you to store power and throw the hammer head with a snap getting a stronger blow. It also helps that the system is not hard linked so it can deal with different thicknesses without blowing up like a press system does when you use too big a piece in it. You still need to adjust the height of the die if you are doing a lot of work out of your normal range though. Most hammers do this adjustment by moving the arm/spring assembly up/down on the pitman arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canman Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share Posted March 7, 2008 Thanks Thomas. I understand about the flywheel moving the hammer up and down via the off set pin but I could not understand the horizontal springs on the connecting rods. It is making more sense now. I want to build a "tire hammer" but I did not understand the spring and con rod assembly. Maybe I can round up enough materials to build one before the year is out. Time is traveling way too fast. I have too many "irons in the fire" now. Maybe the pace will slow down and I can get back to the forge for some R and R, and stress relief. Thanks again for your explanation. The only way it could be better would be if it was accompanied by a detailed blueprint.:D:D canman:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted March 7, 2008 Share Posted March 7, 2008 Canman, I've copied and pasted the add that Clay Spencer put in the classified section. His plans are very detailed and well worth the money. They'll save you a lot of time with your design. He also sell the springs and aluminum pulley wheels that he uses in the workshop builds. These hammers are amazing for the money required to build them. Ray Clontz Tire Hammer Plans by Clay Spencer These plans are for a 50 lb. power hammer that uses the rear axle and hub from a front drive car and emergency spare tire and weighs about 700 lbs. It is powered by a 1 hp, 1750 rpm electric motor, 120 or 240 volts, runs about 250 blows per minute and uses a spring toggle mechanism similar to Little Giant hammers. The anvil is 6" solid round (minimum size) by 36" high and the frame is 5" square tubing. The plans are 40 pages, printed front and back on 20 sheets that include parts list, detail and assembly drawings, sources, notes, installation, adjustments and maintenance. Over 200 hammers have been built using these plans. Price is $30US including postage to US and Canada, $32US to other countries. Send check or money order to Clay Spencer, 73 Penniston Private Drive, Somerville, AL 35670. Tel: (256) 498-1498 or E-mail clay@tirehammer.com for info. Also, Clay leads workshops for chapters or groups to build 15 to 20 hammers and has Tire Hammers for sale, $2000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canman Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share Posted March 7, 2008 Thanks for the info Mark. I may just order the plans. That would definitely speed up the process. Thanks again, canman:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markh Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 Canman, I've heard that Ray Clontz, who invented the Tirehammer, thinks rod end bearings(5/8") from Grainger work well as substitute for the welded toggle arms. Just attach the rod ends with threaded rods and lock nuts and there's your toggle arms. I feel that this is much safer for in-experienced welders. I'm not accusing you of being in-experienced, I just wanted to state that just in case. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canman Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Thanks again. I have e-mailed Clay Spencer and waiting for reply. Thats a great Idea Ray Clontz has too. canman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R W Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Thanks for the information and address MARKH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Hey RW nice to see you around. This winter I`am plan on building a tire hammer my self. Thinking of buying them plans and do some mods (make it where it`ll fit in my shop LOL) Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 There is a short video of my tire hammer working in the gallery. With scrounging/trading I built mine for around a hundred dollars. I used the rusty plans to get an idea and worked out my own style. Plenty of adjustments for throw length and other things. Ram and die is 32 pounds and hits around 275 a minute with a 1 1/2 hp motor from an old air compressor. It's not a little Giant but it works great. With some encouragement I may haul off and make a blue print-- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Jerry, I for one would encourage you to do a blue print of your version of the tire hammer. I'm in the process of gathering the parts to make one, and could use the technical assistance. I'm not too cheap to buy plans, just broke. Give it a whirl Jerry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted September 1, 2009 Share Posted September 1, 2009 Canman, I've heard that Ray Clontz, who invented the Tirehammer, thinks rod end bearings(5/8") from Grainger work well as substitute for the welded toggle arms. Just attach the rod ends with threaded rods and lock nuts and there's your toggle arms. I feel that this is much safer for in-experienced welders. I'm not accusing you of being in-experienced, I just wanted to state that just in case. Good luck you got a picture of that ...i think your talking about "Stem weldment ,PN 209" from what you've said I'm not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragons lair Posted September 2, 2009 Share Posted September 2, 2009 I will be in Joliet for about 10 days starting tomorrow Have plans to visit Igor while there Jerry I think your the next closest. Any free time? Let me know early will be on the road by 7AM Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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