John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Hello all, for about three hours now, I have been looking through threads and sites and the internet and am now wanting to build a small propane forge for small objects, like RR Spikes, Short Stock, etc... I have a basic understanding of what I will need to use and do. It's going to have a close back with a slide down door on the front that goes about 3/4 of the ways down. Probably about 10 or 12 inches long, 8 or 10 inches in diameter. Will use kaowool and that ceramic brick for the bottom. (I think it's called ceramic brick, the long piece that looks kind of like a piece of wood. I want it to reach welding temperatures. Will it need a fan as well? Um, where am I wrong? And Could any of you help me with this or give me directions. I've looked at Zoeller forges for a while and fredlyfx's forge for a while as well. Also, safety is number one prioirty on my list, don't want it exploding and illing me or getting Co2 poisoning. WHat not to do how high the max PSI should be, etc... Garden hose lying around etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 The most important thing is the burner ...do u want to forge weld in it ?... i am looking for the link that helped me brb with the result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Yeah, If I could forge weld in it, I could make small Damascus billets for knives. That's a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 For some reason i just can't find the site but here is something that i've found seems to be a nice burnerhttp://www.roninknives.com/public_img/vburn2/vburner3d_web.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 This is mine hope it helps.Both front and back dor slides up and down , backdor is most of the time closed.I can also put to more fire bricks on the floor of the forge if i want a little small chamber to get it hoter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 refractory brick or firebrick is a more typical term the big bad interweb runs on the power of the right words ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Something that i did and i do not recomand doing is ...after 2hours of work i turned of the gas ...the forge bricks where hot and bright and what i did i tried to fire up the forge using the hot air inside and i turned on the gas after a few seconds after the shutdow... It made a BOOM i think it's because there was no fire inside just the heat and the heat made the gas to explode. Nothing happend i was just scared. And about forging temp ... i don't know if u need a blown burner caz i never was able to make one that works good and + i use GPL (the gas you use instide the cars instead GPL =GAS PETROL LIQUID don't know for shure but i think 50 & butan 50 % propan) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Okay, well you got a lot of irons in the forge in that pix. LOL. I'm going to use propane and not GPL. We have a giant propane maker in town and it's fairly cheap. Can I do this without welding, cuz i don't have one. I might be able to use a friends, but i'm gonna use all metal and didn't know if i could bolt it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 maiking the burner without welding ...quite difficult do u have a lathe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 not reallyBurner Building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 Thanks Ice Czar that's a really useful link. Do you know a online provider of that kaowool and refractory brick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 sorry I do know of various online sources, but can't recommend anyone based on experience or even price. This is basically because I'm not very far away from these guys.Refractories West, Inc: Our Company: History (a major refractories manufacturer, fewer middle men) Id look for someone affordable, but also close Ask a local potter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Anvilfire sell 'reasonable' sized quantities IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrogPondForge Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 And don't forget these guys:Budget Casting Supply Price includes freight. (Lower 48) Good hunting, MIKE (FrogPond'sDad) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 I think I will go with Burner Flares & Gas Forge Parts for most of the propane equipment, and the kaowool and bricks. And I will go with Welcome to Hybridburners.com for the burner or two burners. My dad has gotten into blacksmithing all of a sudden and wants to help, so the price won't be as much of an issue anymore, but still want to keep it affordable. He's excited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Martin Posted January 19, 2008 Author Share Posted January 19, 2008 I felt that this should be a seperate post and not part of the one above. How do I check for leaks and I do I prevent them. What is an unsafe PSI and what should I not do. Haven't been told that yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinD Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 This is basicly what I built.Freon Tank Propane Miniforge Much more info here.Ron's Forge Page and here...Forge and Burner Design Page #1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinD Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 How do I check for leaks and I do I prevent them. What is an unsafe PSI and what should I not do. Haven't been told that yet. I use a pump bottle with soapy water to check for leaks. Just spray all the connections and watch for bubbles. If you see and just snug the fittings up. Use Teflon tape at the connections but don't over tighten and be sure not to let the tape get into the lines. Also be sure to keep the propane hose clear of dragons breath. I have run mine up as high as 10psi and figure it could go higher but it burns propane quicker if you do. I generally run anywhere from 5 to 7psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ice Czar Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 The rule is that when the threads form the seal, you need Teflon tape, but not when the seal is formed with a flare, O-ring, or other compression fitting. And you should use a fitting because Teflon is a lubricant and not really a sealer. Teflon is not recommended for use on propane fittings as its use may result in an imperfect seal and cause a leak.RVbasics.com - RV propane cylinders and cylinder recertificationTeflon tape should not be used on this type of connection. Tape can be shredded by the threads when the fitting is tightened, thereby introducing fragments of tape which enter and plug the regulators and orifices in these systems.Propane@Everything2.com long and short, most teflon tape isnt rated for propane, youd need to insure that it is before usingTeflon tape rated for gas use or pipe dope should always be used to help create a tight seal when connecting permanent pipe fittings. Some people strongly recommend pipe dope over Teflon tape for sealing pipe for gas use, because Teflon tape is prone to shredding between the pipe threads. If a shredded piece gets swept downstream by the gas, it could clog vents and valves. Pipe dope does not have this problem. If you do use Teflon tape, it is a good idea not to wrap the last two or three threads at the end of the pipe, to minimize the chance that a piece could fall into the pipe. Appliances that are intended to be attached and removed often, such as camp stoves and gas grills, will have an O-ring on the hose connector which ensures a tight seal without using tape or dope. at work teflon is a no no, all fittings are POL (Prest-O-Liteput on left) brass (no spark) with the typical notch for flammableleft hand on the nut and we blow out the valve seats before attching , then employ the soap and water method to detect leaks, and pay attention to any trace smellsThe New Propane Cylinder - Is your Propane cylinder obsolete? (cylinders from 4 to 40 pounds) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrynjr Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 propane forges do not have to be very fancy to get up to a welding heat. All the forges at Jerry Culberson's shop are built on this style and he does a lot of forge welding. Here is a picture of the forge I used while I was there and he used that forge in this picture of him welding a collar for a chisel handle. Inside are one or more fire bricks and a refractory blanket, outside is just firebricks. Gas supply a simple copper tube and a hair dryer for air supply. My forge is based on this design also. It can be used for multiple smiths to heat stock front and back or pass a long piece through to heat the middle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 M I can vouch for rex price's burners. I built a freon tank forge using an empty "balloon time" tank from Wally world. lining is 2 inches of Kaowool covered with 2 coats of satanite and one of ITC 100. The bottom is I inch firebrick I haven't tried forge welding yet, but am told it is entirely possible. most of my forging is done between 3 and 5 psi. a 20 Lb tank lasts 16 to 20 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 Okay, well you got a lot of irons in the forge in that pix. LOL. I'm going to use propane and not GPL. We have a giant propane maker in town and it's fairly cheap. Can I do this without welding, cuz i don't have one. I might be able to use a friends, but i'm gonna use all metal and didn't know if i could bolt it all together. My advice is 1St. Learn to weld before you go and burrow someone `s else machine so ya know what yourdoing and make it nicer or Get a family member or freind who knows how to weld and have them build it or teach ya! Sounds cool Though!:):) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammerkid Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 And don't forget these guys:Budget Casting Supply Price includes freight. (Lower 48) Good hunting, MIKE (FrogPond'sDad) Good Link Thanks Mike! :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithh999 Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 i just finished my small gasser and the burner i made was found on www.backyardmetalcasting.com......it gets to welding heat in about 10 minutes on less than 10psi. for the forge I used a 6" pipe 10" long with a single layer of kaowool purchased from anvilfire.com.....safety considerations---plenty of fresh air.....keep a good eye on the dragons breathe in front and behind.....propane bottle seperation from the forge and gasline location.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 propane forges do not have to be very fancy to get up to a welding heat. All the forges at Jerry Culberson's shop are built on this style and he does a lot of forge welding. Here is a picture of the forge I used while I was there and he used that forge in this picture of him welding a collar for a chisel handle. Inside are one or more fire bricks and a refractory blanket, outside is just firebricks. Gas supply a simple copper tube and a hair dryer for air supply. My forge is based on this design also. It can be used for multiple smiths to heat stock front and back or pass a long piece through to heat the middle. Larry you are 100% right, they do not have to be complicated at all. Great pictures thanks:D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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