I found this online and would like some feedback before I send some money.  Would this be a good starter anvil? 

Anvil shaped object not worth your money. In  case you need a boat anchor than it would be ok.

10-4.  That's what I needed to know. I knew $50 was too good to be worth it.  

Thanks 

I got one of those from Harbor Freight years ago. Less than $20. Not sure it's steel, regardless of what the sticker says. Rather soft, makes a dull thud when struck. Made of whatever the magnet pulled out of the scrap pile.

I use it to hold my desk lamp.

At least there's that. Lol. 

I think I've decided to just go with a nice long piece of railroad track.  Fairly cheap and it will start me hammering.  I have a big job coming up and overtime will be used for an actual anvil.  I found a Turkish farrier's anvil for $350.  Free shipping on top of that. 

Put the rail road track or other long piece of steel on end. More mass under the hammer that way, and better results.

On ‎4‎/‎10‎/‎2016 at 7:56 PM, Ubba Bloodaxe said:

 Would this be a good starter anvil

depends on what your going to use it for. straightening nails, yes. forging anything bigger that 1/4 in. probably not. keep your eyes open for something better- it looks rather small, but that mainly depends on what you plan on doing.

                                                                                            Littleblacksmith

I really just want to do knifes.  Probably the largest would be a Scandinavian seax.  Maybe 12 -  14"  

I have to agree with finding a steel block or using rail on end. I used a 16" piece of rail on end for a few years before I found the anvil I bought and could've gone longer if I had to. Truth is I still have that rail and I'm thinking about using it for my son if he decides he wants to try when he gets a little older (he turns three in July so I still have a couple years).

1 minute ago, Michael Cochran said:

I have to agree with finding a steel block or using rail on end. I used a 16" piece of rail on end for a few years before I found the anvil I bought and could've gone longer if I had to. Truth is I still have that rail and I'm thinking about using it for my son if he decides he wants to try when he gets a little older (he turns three in July so I still have a couple years).

So turning the track on end will reduce the working area but increase the mass under the hammer strike?  

1 hour ago, Ubba Bloodaxe said:

So turning the track on end will reduce the working area but increase the mass under the hammer strike?  

Yes. 

an example of the vertical method as applied to a fork lift tine...(and yes I'm that Thomas)

http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html

3 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

an example of the vertical method as applied to a fork lift tine...(and yes I'm that Thomas)

http://www.marco-borromei.com/fork.html

Very nice.  

OK,  so I was looking for anvils and found a huge hunk of iron.  90+ pounds long and wide...... $50. I think it will get me hammering.  

If it's cast iron I wouldn't pay US$20 for it; if it's cast steel I'd be happy to have it in my shop.  Unfortunately I don't think the seller knows enough to say what it really is.

11 hours ago, ThomasPowers said:

If it's cast iron I wouldn't pay US$20 for it; if it's cast steel I'd be happy to have it in my shop.  Unfortunately I don't think the seller knows enough to say what it really is.

Keeping my fingers crossed.  I think it's steel.  Is there a test I can do to truly determine the makeup and quality? 

I see what looks like several welds seams in that one that makes me think it's actually hollow. I'd ask the seller to send a picture of the bottom and ask if it's solid or hollow.

Try looking at the local scrap yards machine shops etc for a solid chunk of steel. It'll be cheaper and easier in the long run.

I would be great for leather work - setting rivets, etc.