Daswulf Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Was attempting my first body hammer tonight. It was going as well as expected until I got to drawing out a longer taper on what would be a long cross pein. I noticed a crack in the fullered part. I kept it at a good heat while working it and didn't hit it while it was cooler. Starting stock was axle shaft my guess 1045 or so. No quenches and as I said it was always worked orange to bright red hot. Not under. Any ideas how I cracked the steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsoldat Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Was it bright out? maybe it ended up hotter than you thought, thin section will heat quicker than the rest of it. Looks like you were off to a great start. Might be able to save it if you grind it out and arc weld it up. Then carry on. Maybe someone else will have better ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I've seen these inexplicable cracks in files before, everything going fine and then suddenly a crack appears. "A bad workman blames his tools" - but my guess would be a micro fracture in the steel before you started working on it. That or not properly annealing the steel before you got working on it. The latter is what I think caused a recent failure when making a fire steel. Next time anneal your steel before you get working on it and see if that helps. That or the age old "Buy new steel" - not always an option for many of us but it's an option. At least you've learned a lesson and had a go. You're next attempt will be better if your tong making is anything to go by. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ausfire Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Gee, I would be really peeved if I had done all that hard work punching, drifting, shaping and then that happened. I'n no help to you, Das, ... just sympathising. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashelle Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 A few things come to mind. Used steel like already mentioned may of had an existing crack, lighting will affect perception of heat: if it's dark out the steel will be at a lesser temperature then it would appear if it was bright out, there is a steep transition with a lot of hammer marks all over so could be a cold shut was induced when fullering down then enlarged as the piece was worked. Or a combination, small crack induced when starting the fullering process, worked down, enlarging as worked, with some heating issues. Might be other things, but that is what comes to mind. When shouldering in ensure the transition is forged clean. Any overlap can enlarge into a major cold shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoggy Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 All of the above..... and without seeing your process, is it possible you could have stressed the cracked area whilst cooler when working on the other end or even forming the eye? Do you think you may have worked that area too narrow, cracked or not? One has to accept that repurposed material such as this may well have had a hard life and brings with it inherent flaws, it's all part of the learning game. Put it aside start a new one and compare them when the jobs complete, I think you will find your next attempt will already show an improvement to your eye, and sooner or latter you find another little task for that MK l. Shame though, it was off to a goof start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Dissapearing post again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Ivan Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 If that was made from the same axle shaft we used for the hammer eye drift and the two hot cuts, (on of the hot cuts got small stress fractures in it iirc) there may well be excessive strain/pre existing stress fractures in the axle. While some tools we made from it already may have worked out fine, the cracks may be sporadic in the axle already. It could also be to excessive heats and grain growth. Try normalizing every 6-10 heats to avoid that. That MIGHT help avoid it. As to that hammer, grind out that crack fully and weld it up. It should work fine after that since its a body hammer for personal use. Remember to pre and post heat the weld and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 One thing I've learned in the past is that "It's in the scrap yard for a reason." Not usually an issue for stuff that is most probably mild steel but things like springs and axels etc are there for good reason. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Thanks for all the helpful ideas. I tried to post a couple times and it's giving me a hard time. Then it seemed the site was down . Anyway I'm going to weld the cracked area and finish it out to work out the process. I think I could have gone about the fullering part better. It could be the steel but I'll blame my process for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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