I re-acquired a 120 volt century power matic 100 wire welder the other day.  It had been on loan for a long time and evidently never used or not used enough.  It seems that the liner has gotten dirty or maybe oxidized.  At any rate when I pulled the wire out it had occasional dark spotting and felt rough  to the touch in many places. 

Question:  Is there anything reasonable I can do to restore the liner, or do I need to replace the steel liner? 

they need replacing and I consider them a consumable, I keep a few spares

I have not had a problem with the liner from lack of use, but have often had to unreel a couple of layers of rusty wire from the drum before I use the welder again.

If the wire is not snagging in the liner and if the liner is not rusted through, it will soon polish inside up with use I would think.

Alan

you can pull it to bits and try and run some compressed air through it gently. maybe use some acetone like nail gun or brake cleaner. the old trick of using a clothespin and a bit of rag clipped to the wire or one of those alligator paper clips and some scotchbrite keeps the crud out of the liner.

 

The linner is infact a consumable. Our miller eats them up wile the hobarts rarely do. Their is a kit that has one or two felt pads and clips pluss a cleaner and lubricant for areas with himidity isues. 

I got my mig for a song as it wasn't working, replaced the liner, fiddled with the settings, job was a good one!

As a life long Gas and Stick man ...... All I need to do now is learn to use it!

One of the biggest problems with liners getting clogged - is the wire tensioner is to tight and small particles come off the wire and pulled into the liner and collects in the liner to eventually cause troubles and jamming. Liners are cheap - replace it and don't look back.

As these gentlemen have already suggested, replace the liner and use the felt pads with cleaner. As maintenance on my machine at work I blow out the liner and lead about once a month.

Thank you for the advice.   Btw what is the cleaner you folks use and what goes on the felt pad.   I decided that I will have to try to buy a liner.  To do anything I will have to disassemble the gun and machine connection any way.   In for a penny in for a pound or some such. 

Thal to your supier, they generaly have the replacement liners and the pads and cleaner in the same area

Charles, in the normal course of events that would be the expected course of  action.  Problem is this machine is many years old and a discount  brand.

I found a supplier in Cleveland, OH.   They are a factory authorized dealer for Century Mfg.  Turns out that this machine's liners are a crossover with Lincoln.  At a guess I say it's design is simplified low price version manufactured under license.

I had an uncle in a different industry that set up those deals for his company.  That is what give me the idea. 

The machine itself is not really that relevant it's the design of the torch i.e. A Binzel torch, many brands use a design or clone/copy of say Binzel's design. Take the torch and hose off, and take it in, the guys in the shop should be able to tell you what type it is! (presuming they are worth their salt that is) and this will help you in future when buying consumables.

Iqn is right there arent that many styels of liners

No doubt you guys are correct.  For this machine there are two   One for al wire with Teflon and the second for iron wire or so it appears in the parts list.

 

Historically, most small US companies reboxed or relabeled consumable componenents from one of the major brands of welding equipment. (Sears seems to be the exception.) There are still only a few types of MIG and gas cutting tips. Students bring me their CL/garage sale finds, and we can usually get them up and running.

Recent off-brand imports, however, are a totally random field, and machines become orphaned and obsolete as fast as cell phones and computers.

I'm surprised that you think Sears to be an exception to rebranding as most of their stuff for years has always been made by someone else ( though in some cases made to Sears specs) 1st 3 possibly 4 digits of the Sears part number usually calls out who made that item for Sears.  For example 642.XXXX would denote that Harris manufactured a Sears branded welding regulator/torch set. 934.XXXX would be Century Welders.

Sorry for the confusion, I meant that Sears changed suppliers like most folks change socks, never sticking to one brand. Whoever bid low got this year's model run. One year it is Victor tips, next year is Airco style. And the regulators! Hopeless.

That's certainly true enough lately.

That's certainly true enough lately.

   Btw what is the cleaner you folks use and what goes on the felt pad.  

nothing on the felt, the cloth only dislodges the dust on the wire before it gets to the liner

The are somtimes sold in pairs, and their is a lubricant and cleaner that is sold with them.

well

The are somtimes sold in pairs, and their is a lubricant and cleaner that is sold with them.

looks like I'm out of luck on that score.  on info from the people that sold me the new one

 

Google "wire feed welder lubricating pads" ragnar and weld ease are two brands, there is an artical on welding web about making them

Thanks Charles I'll check that out.

Here with the humididty and not welding every day (or month for that mater) it realy helps.

The industrial wool felt dose a good job of scoweing of the rust and a little slickum makes for a more consistant feed. On the miller I instaled a boom to hold up the snake rite at  6" from the machine, as gravity tends to kink it right there. 

Appreciate the heads up about the Kink.    Have a real appreciation for the effects of humidity two miles from the Mississippi River and three from the lakes next to New Orleans.