Daswulf Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 I draw square, then round. All good advice Frosty. I'll work on it. I do have off blows and wandering blows here and there, I'm sure i need to pay attention in control of the piece I'm hammering as well as my hammer blows. As for nails that's something I haven't researched yet, I'll look it up and give it a go. I had a longer post but this was the main stuff.and I never got a surprise in my shoe, but he is picky how ya pet him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Ok the other night I completed a third pair of tongs. Didn't get pictures then as I was also doing an oil change and another repair in between. Got pics tonight. I changed the bit style and it didn't end up as I was wanting but I feel I got the reins "better". Newest tongs have the longer flat bit. I did chisel a cross hatch in them but after thinking figured that it wouldn't be of use. And did give it a sloppy strike with 1/4" stock before I realized that I hadn't wanted to. Ugh the price of being distracted from what your trying to do. The bits are off but I feel I improved on the basic form. I will continue the quest as well as others to improve my hammering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalmangeler Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 I am impressed with how fast you are progressing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 I am impressed with how fast you are progressing.Thanks much. i'm nowhere i want to be yet but i'm a quick learner and a visual learner. I respect constructive criticism and try to learn from mistakes that even i can see let alone what more experienced people see. I learned early off that you get nowhere without trying to always improve. I don't mean to sound vein at all. but yeah I actually like ideas from experienced people that can help me get better at what i like to do, and they have all but "if not" perfected. There are alot of people out there that learned the hard way and tho I seem to Have to do that on occasion, they are very inspirational and i value the fact that they are willing to take the time to help others on their path. Really, Thank you guys! You have been, and i'm sure you will continue to be, a real great help to me and countless others. ( In case you guys don't get that gratitude you deserve once in a while ) Keep on hammering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechnicusJoe Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Well done on the tongs. Keep at it and you'll have a nice arsenal of tongs to easily handle and tackle your future projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Well done on the tongs. Keep at it and you'll have a nice arsenal of tongs to easily handle and tackle your future projects.Thank you TechnicusJoe. I really appreciate the videos you've done. They are very helpful and well made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Brilliant work Daswulf. A very clear demonstration of your progression. Every set you've made is a huge improvement on the last. Compare your first to your last and there is a huge difference in skill level. I'm impressed. The overall form is good, they look much more sturdy than the first pair. If you can afford it I'd strongly recommend buying the books by Mark Aspery. Certainly volume 1. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Thanks Mac. Those look and sound to be good books. When my funds improve soon I'll get em. From the site looks like the third book has some techniques I'd love to try out. Ive really enjoyed working and improving on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 You impressed Mark, the Metalmangler with your progress. That is high praise indeed. One whole wall of his shop is covered with tongs. Why? Because it takes him less time to forge a pair than find one. When Brian Brazeal was up last summer one of his demos was tong making. Before the afternoon was over he was taking his lead from Mark.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 *smiles* Frosty Thanks. i'll keep at it too. i have more things to do so i have to diversify. Yes, i will keep making tongs till i get it to where i can make them in no time. I Am very humbled and inspired by any praise I've gotten on my progress. it cant end there I have to keep on going. you guys are great. if you guys arn't inspirational, i don't know what is. A very meaningful Thank You. i'm sure i'll make ugly useless stuff. i just did tonight but thats the learning process and i will keep going till i improve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) Half round faced hammers are nice for drawing over the horn. Take a 2-2 1/2# double jack and gring one face to a smothe 1/2 circle pein. Mine are 3# one strait and one cross. Used with the horn they move metal well, but dont make drastic divits. i'm with Frosty I tend to stand infront of the horn with a strait pein and the stock perpendicular to the anvil for drawing operations Edited September 22, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Half round faced hammers are nice for drawing over the horn. Take a 2-2 1/2# double jack and gring one face to a smothe 1/2 circle pein. Mine are 3# one strait and one cross. Used with the horn they move metal well, but dont make drastic divits. i'm with Frosty I tend to stand infront of the horn with a strait pein and the stock perpendicular to the anvil for drawing operations I gave it a go this last time but i think my hammers arnt faced properly and i Was hitting too deep. it worked tho. I'm getting 2 of my hammers out to rt to reface. other then that i'm going to give a couple a go as well but i thank you for the tip Charles and i'll keep at it. cant wait to try out some hammers refaced by someone in the know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Most as perchased hammers need dressed, and the peins on most are way to sharp, a 2# hammer foe general use should have somthing on the order of a 1/4" radius (think 1/2" round) wile a 3# may have a 3/8-1/2" (3/4-1" round) TSC has a desent hammer, cant remembder if it is Jobforce or work force, but it has a flat pein. Some smiths prefer this profile, if not its less work to dress it to round. Remember working over the horn that it is graduated, so if you are using a slege to draw (or a 1/2 round pein) you want to be closer to the shelf, wile if you are using a smaller pein, say a 2# with a 1/4" radie you want to be closer to the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Working over the horn, or a bottom fuller in the hardy (or pritchel if its small) hole gives you two options, one you can use the flat of the hammer or second you can use the pein, the pein of corse draws faster as you pinch the steel between the two saller serfaces. The bigest mistake we make is working two cold, activly forge at high orange/yellow heat (depending on aloy) and move to straitening out and planishing at red heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Thank you for the knowledge Charles, I appreciate it. I'll still be sending a couple hammers to rthibeau. but i may work on a couple others. I have a good size stock to work on some hardy hole tools so a bottom fuller sounds like a project some time. the anvil horn will work fine as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 24, 2015 Share Posted September 24, 2015 Fullers work well, sets are better to start the sholders. Insted of round the are flatsided, 45degree one sided be eled tools with rounded tips, sets a square sholder, isolates the stock and you then can forge the stem down. Saves some pounding into the hardy hole when making hardy tools. Side sets can be made as spring tools like spring fullers. Isolating diferent parts of the forging raly helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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