remist17 Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) I was given a cast fire pot that was used on decks. It is about 28" in diameter and 6" deep. I was going to just put some mud mix to make a valley and attach my air by the bottom. Side entry may also work ? Thinking about using the stand and screw it to a wood platform to get it off the ground. I'm thinking of the depth is to great I can cut the side down and make a entry area. Using with coal if i can find blacksmith coal. Thoughts? Edited August 1, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 You could certainly clay that up and make it work. Toughest part might be getting the air thru the iron, if it is cast iron, depending on what tools you have available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 I was thinking to first drill holes then cut it with a sawsall with a metal blade. I was thinking to cut the area down with fire bricks and only allow it to be 12" or so. Any thoughts on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 If it's truly cast iron you may need a carbide sawzall blade. They do sell them, I've used them in the past to cut cast iron sewer pipes. It will not be the fastest method, and you may break a few blades.http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-9-in-Carbide-Grit-Sawzall-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-3-Pack-48-00-1430/100088519A zip wheel on a 4 1/2" grinder would be one of my 1st choices, and do the cut from the back where you have the most room to maneuver. If it's not cast iron, but just sheet steel, almost any metal cutting blade will work. Hard to tell in that picture, but I'm guessing it's simply pressed sheet steel which make it easier to cut. Filling in with fire bricks will work. In fact chances are just about any brick/block will work, as long as you clay the actual fire pot to protect them from direct heat. All they really are is filler anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Look into a side blast forge design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) Should I put my drum brake in as a fire pot or just mud/ brick the fire pot? Also local stores carry only 1" black pipe is this OK for the air pipe? Edited August 2, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) Brake rotors are better than drums, but just clay will be fine since you will have so much in there anyways. Being that you are in PA, you should have no problem finding coal ....How are you supplying the air? That will affect what you use to plumb it with.You might want to clay that right up to within an inch of the top edge. That will give you a larger diameter to work with, and make it shallow enough to do long stock. Look at pictures if vintage cast iron forges, they were not that deep. Edited August 2, 2015 by BIGGUNDOCTOR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 I would suggest a side blast forge. Use it for a while and then make modifications, if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) OK thank you all. I will look at side blast and clay it in. Sounds like the drum is not needed. If i go bottom design should i use the drum or just clay? I plan pn using a fan from a hot water heater and use a ball valve to restrict air. I will look at side blast design today but will wait for comments. Edited August 2, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 It will look a bit stam punk but if you use fitings to bring the air pipe (tuyeer) over the side and down so the outlet is an inch off the bottom and about 3" back from center it should work just fine as a side blast. Less chance of cracking, breaking by trying to drill. This is a tried method used in third wourld areas with drums that have their tops dished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Well all I made my first forge. I ended up doing a bottom blast design. Not sure if what I did will work but I tried something. The ring was cast but I cut the holes and took the side down a little. I mixed up some clay to the mix I found on the site. I put a small soup can around the bottom opening and put the clay in around it. Made the area like a valley out to the front. Question what do I put on the hole. I know I need some steel and drill holes in it but do I put clay right up to the hole? Or let it steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 The cast should live just fine in the bottom, but if you need to bring up the fire ball a layer of adobe will be just fine. The clay will partuly vitrafy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) Kinda embarrassed to post these, but here are some photos. Right its outside until I can build a building for it. Now trying to figure out the hood. Right now it has cost me $32. I seem to not be able to find 12" stove pipe. Everything is 4/6 or8". Can I make a large hood and have a 8" up pipe on the hood? Edited August 2, 2015 by remist17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) If it works it works! No need to be ebaresed for ingenity. Try zipping two 6" pipes together. The seam comes unlatched, when you put two 6" together, walla, 12" might want to notch the otherside for passing long bars threw the fire Edited August 2, 2015 by Charles R. Stevens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 2, 2015 Author Share Posted August 2, 2015 Thank you. Never thought about the 6" pipe. That's was a duh moment for me. How do I see the forbidden photos on most of the posts. Trying to read up on hoods but most photos do not come up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 New upgrades to the site has a lot of the old picts screwed up/ They are supposed to be working on the problem. You don't HAVE to have a hood. I don't with mine as I use it outside all the time. It would be nice, but since I move it around, a hood right now is more hassle than it's worth. At worst I set a fan up blowing from behind me towards the forge if the smoke won't clear for whatever reason that day. In reality the smoke is almost never a problem if you manage your fire well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
remist17 Posted August 4, 2015 Author Share Posted August 4, 2015 OK thanks. Clay still wetwet.appreciate all the support. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 OK thanks. Clay still wetwet.appreciate all the support.The wet clay will shrink check as it dries unless you're REALLY lucky, if it doesn't buy a lottery ticket! Just damp enough to squeeze into a hard clump in your hand then rammed hard with a mallet or such makes a nice hard clay liner that lasts a lot longer and won't check.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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