scrap storage

[DSW]

Long pins are usually used when laying out curb forms. Since the curbs are 18" tall ) about 450mm, you need the pins to be long enough to go into the ground and hold, and still be at least high enough over the top so you can wire the two pins together to keep the forms from spreading and still trowel under the wires. Closest pict I can find online is this, except our pins would have been talller so the pairs could have been wired together.

 

 

 

As you can see on cures you might often need pins every 6" or so possibly depending on how things got laid out. When we'd do sidewalk or large patios for doing stamp work, we'd often have 200-300 meters of flexible form laid out  and it takes a lot of pins to pin all of that. we'd often use all those short pins you see on the truck ( note the other side is set up the same) and then some on big jobs.

 

 

I wish I had icts of some of the big steps I formed over the years, but all those picts are 35mm and I haven't located them to transfer them to digital yet. This is a small set of steps showing some of how whe did cantilevered steps. Some times they be 6 or 8 risers high.

 

 

 

 

 

[DSW]

DSW, what's with the 'pins' would you please be so kind as to explain their usage, I'm very interested in understanding? Mushroomed tops? The series of small holes? Does the whacker(looks like a diesel model) relate etc.? And what sort of job would need a truckload of different sizes of those 'pins' are the concrete/cinder blocks (the unusual looking ones) related? Do you make them?

​We're having storms so I didn't want to loose what I was typing so I'll do this in pieces.

 

Whacker is a gas machine. We use it to beat down the subsoil before we put stone down as a base for patios and so on. Many times the ramp used to dig the basement is right where the customer wants the patio, and if you don't dig up the soil all the way down to the footings and compact it well, the soil settles and the patio cracks. We don't HAVE to do that, but it gives a top notch job and for what the people are paying that's important. Some of the big steps we have poured are 12-18 yards of solid concrete. Put that much weight on poorly compacted soil, and you will have problems with settling.

 

Block seen in the back ground. Near block is 16" x 16" Chimney block. Usually it's used to lay up block chimneys quickly and supports the terra cotta flue liners. We used to use them to lay up piers for block walls around patios and people would put lights in the piers. the hollow centers allowed us to run conduit in the center for wires later. Square full chimney block were often easier than laying up half block. We'd then do a thin overlay on teh block to make it look like stone in the pict or stucco it.

Far block is used for building retaining walls. Each block locks into the previous course and steps back some. Pict shown is me laying up smaller retaining wall block. This was to support the one side of a patio we were going to pour so the customer would have more flat space in their back yard. The block that looks hollow all the way in the back is one of the really large retaining wall blocks. You set them like those shown in the pict, but then fill the hollows with stone. Each block is almost 100 lbs. Middle stack of block is either standard hollow block used for walls ( probably 12" block I'll have to look at the shop) or medium sized retaining wall block.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Frosty]

Oh, sort of like jacks for prop posts and ledgers? But without the jacks, posts or ledgers?​

​Uh . . . Hopefully someone who does cement work will post a pic.

Okay, I forgot I have a shot of the boys pouring my shop slab. Here you go.

Frosty The Lucky.

[DSW]

I wish I could find more picts of my prep work showing forms and so on. Unfortunately I didn't take as many as I would have liked back when film was the only available option. Since then I've either been too busy, or forgotten many times.

 

Looks like a good solid thick slab there Frosty. What's it close to 6-8"? Edges look like they turn down from the pict. I'm guessing that they poured footings 1st and turned the slab down onto the footings so the edges would be taller. Your frost line is probably a lot deeper than we have here in PA.

[Frosty]

Ayup, 6" slab double rebar and 4x in 8" where the power hammer sits. The footing is 24"x24". Code for frost line is typically 48" around here but it's been known to drive as deep as 7'. Being a former lab tech and a foundations driller I just made sure it was non frost susceptible (NFS) soils. It didn't stand a chance against this Frost though. <grin> I perk tested the natural soil and the test hole drained in 13 seconds where code is 30. Glacial till isn't usually considered FS but the test is easy. The shop rests on 2' of compacted, cement stabilized 1" minus just for insurance. I hammer compacted with the backhoe bucket in 6" lifts.

OCD. Me? Naw, I'm just thorough and had too many years experience with failed foundations built to "code". Is it OCD when you consider code is the minimum acceptable and want better than bare minimum?

Oh yeah, the square tubing in the corners of the rebar are the gozintas, 2" receiver tubing set flush with the floor surface. What doesn't show is the 4" pipe that connects them all to the exhaust blower. The gozintas are solid enough to straighten or bend 8"x12" (I can't remember the weight) Wide flange with pins and hudraulics, think straighten truck frames. I also have a number of pedestal tools in gozintas.

While I haven't set it up yet the gozintas provide a down draft exhaust system that prevents smoke or fumes from getting loose in the shop air. Typically you have to replace all the air in a shop something like 3x to get rid of smoke or fumes and it's expensive heating a shop in winter Alaska. This system sucks smoke, fumes, etc. directly into the floor and out so I get to keep most of my warm air. It also sucks what warm air it must down through the floor and helps keep my tootsies warm.

Oh yeah, the red tubing is Pex hydronic heat tubing so the shop will be heated from the floor up. Another thing I didn't finish before the tree got me. I'm not going to gripe though I'm a lucky guy.

Frosty The Lucky.

 

[ianinsa]

Thanks for the detailed explanation guys, we build a bit differently here , commonly 600 x 300mm concrete 10/15mpa strip footings and then clay-brick walls up to a 75mm floor slab. Brick walls for the rest. If we were to do work like DSW's first picture we would just use bits of rebar. Typically we don't have basements  but if we do( like my home has a wine cellar) it's excavated pit in form . No ramp and vertical walls. Funny how things seem the same worldwide yet are done in totally different ways.

Edited June 15, 2015 by ianinsa

[ianinsa]

Frosty, if we were to do a floor like yours we would typically not have a separate foundation, the slab would be used as a raft foundation. Incidentally the 'ceiling of the wine cellar is a brick vault also not typical.

[SpankySmith]

Okay, back on topic BOYS!      I'm going to have to build a small rack for my scrap, too, it's gettin' out of control... anyone else have anymore pics?  I need more to look at before I build something. 

[gote]

I use a variation of Glenn's advice. Some years ago I bougt a large box of fireworks, You know the type that fires a sucsession of balls into the air. After the fun I had a box full of sturdy cardboard tubes. The box now houses my saw chain sharpener and the tubes are used to store steel rods. I took out those tubes that were not pointing straight up and put a frame of board around to keep them togehter. It works beautifully.

Göte

[Frosty]

Frosty, if we were to do a floor like yours we would typically not have a separate foundation, the slab would be used as a raft foundation. Incidentally the 'ceiling of the wine cellar is a brick vault also not typical.

I gave you guys the wrong idea, the footing and slab are monolithic it's just one great big piece of reinforced concrete. On a cement stabilized over compacted 1" minus base. Another thing I forgot to mention is all the rebar and gozintas are welded, no tie wire. This lets me ground the entire slab to weld so I have one less cable to trip over.

Back to you Spanky.

Frosty The Lucky.

[tdaleh]

Build a frame and get some four inch pvc pipe cut it to different lenghts and fill frame up. You can use it horizontal or vertical. Good storage small space.

 

[Frosty]

Another option I like for small drops is a frame to hold kitty litter buckets on an angle so the open end faces front but the bucket is sloped back so round stuff doesn't roll out. The frame is loose enough you can pull a bucket if needed but they're held securely enough to resist bumps. Shelves are perfect if you use kitty litter in square buckets, recently I discovered a bargain cat food that comes in large sort of clear plastic buckets. It's what we feed our neutered feral clowder.

Yeah, a feral cat decided the hay stack in the barn was the perfect place to have her litter. Once they were sort of weened Deb spent a lot of time sitting on the hay shelf gentling the kittens down and finally live trapped them. We "tamed" them and after neutering found them homes, all but one WILD one who now lives in our bedroom. The parents all got live trapped, checked, vaccinated, neutered and released. They now live here and keep other ferals from taking up home.

Anyway, we keep food and water available in a sheltered spot in the ex-barn and I'm not going to buy them expensive cat food and this bargain brand comes in really nice plastic buckets. I have just the stock to build the shelves too, salvaged ATV shipping crate frames from the day they were too cheap to ship back for reuse. I brought pickup trucks full of the things, the local Honda shop used to stack them outside the gate next to the dumpster. Message received and understood. The waste disposal company charges extra if they have to hand load garbage so it was a win win for us all, even the garbage guys must've been happy to not have to throw all those frames into the trucks.

Uh, I sidetracked the thread again didn't I?  Sorry Spanky, back to you.

Frosty The Lucky.