smfg_mendo Posted April 11, 2015 Author Share Posted April 11, 2015 (edited) Thank you for the historical information seems like a low production number compared to others like trenton. Maybe that i why I don't see many out here. IMO tracking down the historical information is one of the best parts about restoring this old equipment and bringing back in to service. I found out so much about my grandfathers power hammer just by calling up Little Giant, and no price would ever get it from me! I just moved into my new home and the garage isn't finished yet so not all my equipment is here yet or running, its driving me nuts to say the least I need to build faster! so here are some more poser pictures with some of my tools made by Aaron Cergol.A farmers dagger, a 4 pound rounder, and a punch handle is cocobolo, I made the sheath from an old pistol holster. made a para-cord lanyard with a stainless shackle at the end. Edited April 11, 2015 by smfg_mendo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Was it your intent to leave the heavy hammer marks? I'd be concerned they'd make weak points where a failure could originate under stress. Bearing in mind I'm not a bladesmith, the deep depressions running across the blade just catch my eye and say "serious flex limiters"Frosty the Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted April 12, 2015 Author Share Posted April 12, 2015 yes it was. However, I didnt make the dagger aaron cergol did. I don't think it will be an issue being the blade is so thick nearly 1/4". It turned out just how i expected, he really does superb work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 Finally had some time to make an anvil stand today. It is made from the cross beams from the tops of power poles. I had a hole stack of them lying around. I still have to secure the anvil. I also have a flat piece of walnut for the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 That's a good stand, I especially like it you left the retroreflective strip on it. It'll be easy to find in the dark.A curved piece of wood that fits between the feet is a good way to secure it. I don't think I'd put a flat board between the stand and anvil, the more direct the support the better.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 20, 2015 Share Posted April 20, 2015 nice stand, now forge a couple of tong/tool holders for it that can double as handles....I agree that a cross board on top is going the wrong way. How about making a simple template of the bottom and then routing the top to make a nice flat bottomed inset for the anvil to fit in?. (after a little use you can go back with a chisel and finesse places where the base of the anvil wasn't flat) The treated wood will not be fun to route but a carbide type should do it, may need cleaning with a solvent if it gunks up.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 (edited) Thanks frosty and thomas for the great advice. The piece of walnut is so nice looking i wish i could use it for something! would it hurt my setup to have it under the anvil? seems like it would allow all the downward force to be evenly distributed across the cut faces of all the timbers. I found these today in some of my junk i think they are railroad track hold downs. thinking i could run a lag bolt through the looped ends and another at the notched end to keep it snug up against the anvil base? Edited April 21, 2015 by smfg_mendo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 21, 2015 Share Posted April 21, 2015 You want no gaps between your anvil's base and the support. Adding a cross piece "institutionalizes" the gaps putting bounce in a system you don't want it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted April 22, 2015 Author Share Posted April 22, 2015 (edited) Quickly sanded the surface of the stand and got it nice a level. then attached the railroad track straps. They work great in their original shape and fit the anvil base nicely. I was one lag bolt short however.I still have to drill and drive in 2 railroad spikes on the adjacent base corners to keep the anvil from rotating the other direction as well as hold it tight to the surface of the stand. Edited April 22, 2015 by smfg_mendo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 (edited) Well its all done just going to add a ring around the very top to help hold it all together. will forge some more holders when I finish moving and my shop is up and running. I need to shim the one railroad spike i used an existing hole in the timber and it was a little too far from the anvil only got a small bite on the edge of the base.The hammer holder his a control box mount for a railroad terminal box made by wrrsc (western railroad supply co)Ill stop posting pics now! Edited April 24, 2015 by smfg_mendo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Finally picked up my swage block today, it was my grandfathers also. I bring home more and more pieces as time allows me and I make space for it all at my house. I will be buidling a stand in the next couple weeks Is there any way to date these old block? Who manufactures them? 15x15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Too bad the anvil wasn't made by Brooks, it would have matched your wood stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smfg_mendo Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Good call bigun that would be cool if they matched. I do however enjoy the arm and hammer quality and ring. do you know anything about the date or mfg. of the swage block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.