Metalsculptingben Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 I have a Little Giant that I have had for a about seven years, but I am just now setting up my own shop and using my equipment. I have the dies that came with the hammer, flat ones, and that is it. I would like to get some combination dies or at least drawing dies, and I know that I can contact LG to purchase new dies from them. I thought before going that route, I would ask here to see if anyone has some for sell? I have seen some drawing spring swages before too, what is everyone's opinion on those if I don't quite want to make the bigger purchase yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin W Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 I really like the quick change dies from LG, they are the bottom half of both dies with threaded holes. It's a purchase but , you can fab what you need after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJS Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Flat dies are great. Furniture for your bottom die makes it very quick to switch out tools like, a narrow drawing die with built in kiss blocks, tapers, cupping tools, V blocks, spring fullers, and spring swages. Small handled tool to use under the hammer like a fuller/flatter combo paddles, tong making paddle, side sets, bob punches, as well as a small fuller I call a "rake" are all very handy... Then there are all the tools that you just throw on the bottom die, like a rivet snap/set, or a bolster to punch into. Some guys are real handy with changing out dies and use dedicated drawing dies, or do a lot of work with combo dies. I have mainly used flat dies with a lot of tooling. I haven't enjoyed the combo dies I have used, but the edges on the flat part were too sharp, and you couldn't work in the sweet spot of the die...I softened my edges on the long sides of my flat dies. Never felt like I could afford lots of dies, so I never invested in some of the nice options, but I did make a lot of handled tools, and some spring dies to set in a collar with a hardie hole to accept a post mounted on the spring die. Do you have more than one hammer? Is your flat die one of the good ones that is "broken in" that has a very definite sweet spot in the middle of the long face that is softer and allows you to draw a taper without a lot of "chew" marks;-) Flat die forging is very versatile if you take the time to learn the tricks and make the tools. Look up Clifton Ralph, and Steve Parker, both industrial blacksmiths who advocate for flat dies, UMBRA sells videos of conferences for pretty cheap. The tapes that Clifton made years ago are very informative if you can get by the sound and the format;-) Look at what some of the ABANA chapter libraries have as far as videos. Dave Manzers videos are also pretty useful too. Use what you have, look for opportunities to play with other peoples toys, before you cough up for more tooling. Unless you are looking to spend some money as a tax right off, then order some dies;-) Most of us don't have the problem of having too much money hanging around. The LG QC die system sounds cool, and I really like that after you invest in that you can build your own stuff off of it which is perfect... I love tool making, if you would rather buy some cool kit and get to work, as long as the cash flow works for you that's cool too... But you have to make sure that with any capital investment, that there will be a good return on your investment. I have a friend he bought three sets of dies with his hammer from Tom Clark, and I suspect he hasn't changed dies on the hammer very often, I have, and Tom did when he demoed there, all I ever see on that hammer are the flat dies... Might ask what dies did you buy that just collect dust... Inquiring minds want to know??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsloan Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I've found with my 100 flats are what I use. I spent a lot of time tuning mine to get the most power out of it. I probably ran it for like 20hrs just adjusting things, spring tension, pitman height and ram guide adjustment. Just to find the sweet spot so to speak. My 100 will actually draw faster with flat dies than my 25 will with drawing. I can also straighten fast and square the bar as I go with the flats. Come to think of it. I've not really seen anyone run anything other than flats after you get to a larger weight hammer. This is a good line of questioning. Don Hanson runs slightly radiused dies in his 100, but the middle 1/3 of the die is still truly flat. Hope this helps Dave from diller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalsculptingben Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Thanks for your replies. I think my problem is just I have spent the last four years at shops that had Big Blu hammers and a Bull 125. They each had multiple dies for the hammers and I thought that is what I needed. Over the past couple weeks I really tried to get some hours on my LG. I am really start to get the hang of just using the flat dies. I have come across a problem recently. Sometimes when I release the treadle it sticks and doesn't release the clutch blocks. Does anyone know what causes this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy k Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 Lack of Oil, Oil, Oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalsculptingben Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 I feel like I have too much oil at times. It feels like it is locked into it and I can release it by pulling up the treadle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jakesshop Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 I saw yesterday a ad in CL for some LG dies up in Auburn CA. The guy had several 50 pound dies and at least one set of 100's. I had searched using "anvil" and found them. He is selling a couple hammers too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 have you oiled the clutch blocks? increased the return spring on the treadle? Checked to see if the bearing points are gummed up from sitting around with old oil in them? (WD40 makes a good gummy oil cutter) If it's cold in the shop is the oil you are using thick and sludgy due to temperature? (some of the synthetics are good about not getting too viscous when cold) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalsculptingben Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Thank you Thomas, these are all things that I am going to check tomorrow when I get to the shop. I never really thought about the cold making the oil gummy, but that makes sense. Hopefully it will be an easy fix. I will post my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalsculptingben Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 So I think WD40 might have done the trick. I'll keep you posted if it occurs again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason0012 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 put a break on the flywheel and oil the crap out of the clutch- there is no such thing as too much oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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