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About dsloan

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    I became interested in blacksmithing through the urge to make custom knives.
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  1. More than likely the collar was used to control end play, front to rear. It's a very clean hammer good score. The video's will tell you all you need to know. Dave from diller
  2. Yes, you can't do better than that . Pictures please Dave from diller
  3. Not sure where you folks have been watching hammer pricing. Ebay has been crazy for the last 5 years on 25# hammers. I've seen them sell for as high as 6800$. For a rebuilt hammer not rebuilt by Sid Suedmeier. I do know you can call Sid right now if you know his number and get one for around 5K. Depends on how you want it set up. I spoke with him less than a week ago and he had 2 available. Hammerfall if your in KS and it's not a Sid rebuild. I'd not pay those kinds of prices. As far as holding their value I'd say yes, Once again depending on who did the rebuild. If your not familiar with Sid he is the previous owner of Little Giant. You can still contact LG and they will put you in touch with him. He is quite aware of hammer pricing and also knows the best rebuilders besides himself. If you'd like to see what kind of quality your dealing with in the rebuild. Dave from diller
  4. After rereading your post if you haven't found a decent answer to your question. If you cut the sow block area off cut about where the cradle comes up. Which is probably six inches down. You have a chance of hitting the casting void. These hammers were cast upside down. The anvil base is where the void usually sets. The only other concern I'd have is your drilling and tapping into cast iron. Dave from diller
  5. I think I can help you. The first thing you need to do is get both dies out. (Both dies are to short). Then if you can post a photo of the ram and sow block area (Side and from top down to show any damage). As far as the photo's posted you won't need a machine shop. Just a right angle grinder and some time. (maybe a six pack of beer also). Dave from diller
  6. At the point that Mr. Suedmeier (the past owner of LG) sold out you could still get a 25# hammer with complete rebuild from him for 4800. The hammers from him rebuilt were above factory specs. I've spent the last 10 years around Sid and working closely with him for 6500 I've got a 50. That I'd deliver within 500miles and set up ready to run. Dave from diller
  7. I agree with everyone else your losing sleep over this. If your off a a half inch make up for it with buffering material. On my slab I added 8 layers of tar paper, but I only needed to make up about a 3/16 of an inch. Over that. I would try and make up for the lost concrete. Simple answer tuffco. Amazing stuff. tough as nails it's an epoxy based stuff come in 5 gallon buckets. Put it over your concrete and level. Set hammer in and enjoy. Dave from diller
  8. Dave, Take the time with Rob. He'll tell you everything you need to know about buying a hammer and how to run it. For example they say "a photo is worth a thousand words" well a minute with Rob is about twice that. Dave from diller
  9. RogueRugger, If you live in Albuquerque, you need to contact the Gunthers in I believe (forgive the spelling) Moriarity. Here's a link to their website. (http://g3blacksmithing.com/) It would be worth your time to contact them and if possible go vist with them. They are running 4-25lb LG's. They could give you a quick run down of how they operate and what to look for. Their dad's name is Rob, (highly respected blacksmith and his boys equally as talented), Chad and Brad. Tell them that Sid's friend Dave Sloan sent you their way. They might even know of the hammer that you are refering to. Dave from Diller
  10. I've found with my 100 flats are what I use. I spent a lot of time tuning mine to get the most power out of it. I probably ran it for like 20hrs just adjusting things, spring tension, pitman height and ram guide adjustment. Just to find the sweet spot so to speak. My 100 will actually draw faster with flat dies than my 25 will with drawing. I can also straighten fast and square the bar as I go with the flats. Come to think of it. I've not really seen anyone run anything other than flats after you get to a larger weight hammer. This is a good line of questioning. Don Hanson runs slightly radiused dies in his 100, but the middle 1/3 of the die is still truly flat. Hope this helps Dave from diller
  11. We can really help you out here but we will need some better photo's. Show the overall hammer, dies ram guide, flywheel and clutch pulley would help alot. Thanks dave from diller
  12. Really great idea. Make sure your toggle arms did not cut a groove in your ram. This can cause some misalignment. Like I said good idea I was going to recommend a carbide burr. To clean these up. Dave from diller
  13. Adair, Excellant job, that will work better than your stops that you previously had. If you didn't damage the end to bad you could reuse your current spider key. I would recommend that, the keys were custom fit at the factory. You could run into a lot of fitting to get a new key to work properly. Since your sliding your clutch pulley ahead to make up for clearence you will have a little extra key sticking out the rear. Dave from diller
  14. Adair, I love the shim photo. The first photo of the ram is not right it should be to the sides not the front. The wear points to the left or right. I'll not offer an opinion on the ram guide as of yet. Just that if you can see any light between your straight edge and the ends. Your bowed in the middle. From your second photo it looks like there is some bow, but that can be from your flash. The human eye can see .030" with a proper light source behind it you can see .010". This is enough of misalignment to cause the tight in middle and loose on the end. An added note: PM or message me I will provide you with shim material. Like I said before I just takes a touch to throw these hammers out. Wrap around ram guides can be a pain. Zerts are all pipe thread. I think your on plan. Dave
  15. Adair, I can almost bet a dollar when you have the ram guide off, lay a straigt edge in the vee way on the inside. I bet it will be bent to either end. Bolted up to the frame can really put some torque on these things. On shimming there is no rule to say you can't put more on one side than the other. I'm trying to think of a come shim material that is easy to locate. You could go with steel, brass or copper for the thicker stuff. If you have a good auto parts store gasket material for the thinner. I've spent up to eight hours trying to get the best shim fit on an old style. It came down to bending and straightening the ram guide. After I beat, pryed and pulled on it for an hour things came together. When it all comes together and your hammer is running good it will put a smile on your face. I recommend using scrap wood to test the power. Use a piece about the size of the material that you will be forging. It saves time from heating a piece of steel. Don't be afraid to play with the spring tension and the pitman height. When you hit the sweet spot you'll know it. When I found mine I ate up every piece of scrap in the shop and said I wonder what would happen if I stuck this lead hammer in it. Well need less to say I have a lead hammer with two flat sides. Good luck I can't wait for the results. Dave from diller