Champion 400 disassemble problem

[SReynolds]

A picture of one of many I have repaired. I want to try the Canedy Otto style. Tired of the Champion 400. I find that other blowers operate more smoothly than the champion 400 due to the number of bearing races that are pitted. Replacing the bearing balls is not the issue. It is the pitting on the glass hard races. Other blowers do not use the same bearing set-up and operate smoother.

I have one 400 that is nearly new. I Opened it up to look and can't believe it. Never seen anything like it.

[FRODO,]

I'm afraid it's going to take more than just filing the threads.  See photo.  I may have to cut off 1/4" to get past the damage.  Not sure if that will leave enough threads on the other end to work out.  Any thoughts?  

yeah man,,,that can be fixed,  do not cut it off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what you need is a die for the threads,  then, gently,  tap the pipe back to round,  do not worry about the threads

just get it back to round.

then,  run the die on the pipe.  its called chasing the threads,  the die will cut the bent metal out of the threads

 

use PLENTY of oil,,,,dripping with oil, pour oil on the die and threads as you recut the threads   

heat at this point is your enemy,  oil will keep the metal cool as you recut

 

the picture is deceiving,  the size looks like 2''  you can rent a "ridgid ratchet die"  at most rental stores

or have a  plumber buddy  drag his home to you

 

[SReynolds]

May be wrong but I don't believe a die for these threads exist. I would have to look in my book to locate the size but it is not like anything on the planet these days.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Companies like MSC carry some really oddball taps, and dies. 

[Animosh]

The hardest part I have ran into when fixing these is that worm drive. The nuts get seized on and it only comes out the back. Which there is not a whole lot of clearance to get on the back nut either. Maybe I got the wrong tools.

 

I did a canedy otto restore and holy smokes it was all gears and was a breeze. Though watch out for the non metal gear and do not soak it in anything

[Patrick Kerns]

For those of you who have restored 400's, how quiet can you reasonably expect them to be after a rebuild? I have a very dirty but functional 400 and I am trying to decide if it's worth doing a complete rebuild or if I should just give it a deep clean without disassembling the mechanism. Currently it moves air well, turns >1 revolution after I stop turning but makes a odd grinding/scraping noise at operating speeds. The fan seems to have no clearance issues with the case. Will post a video tonight with the noise.

Edited August 19, 2015 by Patrick Kerns

[JME1149]

Did you take the top cover off and look at the internals? See any damage, burrs, excessive wear, crud buildup? Have you tried putting some lubrication inside? With the cover off, turn the handle and watch the edge of the big bronze gear, does it run straight or wobble as it turns? Does it operate the same in both directions? Can you isolate where the grinding noise is coming from? Did you unscrew the three dust covers and look at the condition of the ball bearings? There are four sets of bearings that could be the culprit. Three of them are fairly easy to access for a visual inspection. If it's turning freely and pushing air you might make it worse by taking it apart. It has had 100 years for the gears to wear-in to each other.

Pictures will help get you a better answer, as would a video.

[SReynolds]

the 400's I have rebuilt are quite loud in my opinion due to the pitted race. I can't get a machine shop to make them nor will they dress them as the steel is harder than anything they have ever encountered. The balls can be bought in bulk, but that won't help much if the race is pitted.

There are better blowers out there.

I have one 400 that I am saving. It is almost noiseless. The bearings are perfect. Maybe sell that and travel Europe someday when I retire, eh?  

The amount of wear on the bronze gear (teeth) will tell you quite a lot.......and the bearings/races.