For the last year I have been using a 1x30 belt sander in order to get the forge marks off my knives, but I have not found it to be a very good use of the little bugger.  I have noticed that most folks seem to use hand files, so I went down to the Department store, and got myself some files.  The 10 inch Double Cut does okay, but it's the 12 inch single bastard that seems to work the best.  Except every so often some kind of depris gets caught in the file teeth and causes me to put a big scratch into the work.  I'll be watching some "How-To" videos later to look for clues, but has anyone here had that problem?  Am I using the wrong kind of files?  Mine are Nicholson(which I thought to be a good brand) one's a 12 inch Bastard Mill, the other a 10 inch double cut.  Thanks.

There's techniques to using a file properly. Draw filing will produce a smooth even surface but you MUST clean the file regularly or cuttings will scratch and gouge the project.

 

When you bought the files did you buy a "file card"? A file card is a short bristle wire brush for cleaning file teeth.

 

Then there's technique. With experience you'll learn the feel when the file is getting loaded. Loaded means cuttings are filling the relief between teeth so the file is beginning to ride on debris rather than cut cleanly. With experience you'll learn how many strokes you can take before you need to clean it. Before the file gets loaded you can simply tap the file vertically on the handle end and the cuttings will fall out of the teeth. Then you give it a couple swipes with the file card the file is clean.

 

In all my years of metal working and using bench vises, clearing file teeth by tapping is the most common use I've had for the little "anvil" looking face on the back of bench vises, it's perfect for knocking cuttings out of file teeth. Not much more but it's perfect for that.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

Great advice! I did not at all buy a "file card". None of the videos I watched mentioned it.  I could feel it skate a few times, and I thought I wasn't applying enough pressure for the teeth to cut.  I bet this is my problem. Guess I'll be making another trip to the hardware store.

The knife making lessons on this site also show how and wot files to use.

One last word about cleaning files, never, Never, N-E-V-E-R use an air hose! You'll have to let the steel bits rust out of your hide if you luck out and don't get any  in your eyes. Iron/steel left in your eye will rust and cloud the fluid, think blind. and NO, they can't drain your eyeball and filter the goop.

 

NO air hoses for cleaning any darned thing!

 

Frosty The Lucky.

I don't have a card, but find that my fingernail works pretty well to remove the larger pieces that will scratch your work. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Hopefully I didn't just bring up the topic of touching files with bare fingers again....)

no but wait til ya get a metal sliver under that nail.  :o  We will be waiting for your post in safety section about it when it does.

Good Morning,

 

Wipe chalk on your file BEFORE you start. School chalk, soap stone, whatever is handy.

File for a bit, clean with a file card, wipe on some more chalk, continue.

 

A trick I learned for getting the stuck stuff out of a file, that the card won't take out. Take a rifle brass cartridge (empty), pinch the open end in a vise to flat. Drill a dead hole in a piece of wood to make a handle (or turn one) and sink the brass shell in the hole with (primer end first) whatever glue/epoxy/silicone you have handy. When the glue dries, you have the BEST FILE SHARPENING TOOL in the world. When you use it on the file teeth like a file card (except pushing not dragging), the end of the brass will become the shape of the file teeth. When you get a bugger stuck in a tooth, run the brass down the file tooth and whatever is stuck, will spring free. MAGIC!!!

 

The first one I saw, I bought at a NWBA Auction. I have made many more since then.

 

Neil

Couple tips I got that were real helpful....1. Tilt work down and away from cutting direction to allow cuttings to fall away from work, 2. When draw filing if tang is in right hand it's a push cut....in left hand it's a pull cut. Only apply pressure while cutting, if you keep pressure on the file while pulling back it will break off teeth and give you bad draggers. As mentioned above read the knife making lessons Steve and Rich have compiled. there is a ton of good stuff there. Also take heed on all other suggestions above. It may also be a poorly dressed hammer that is causing these "Forge Marks", there is no substitute for good hammer control. There are a pile of ways to prevent that too.....too many to list....they are already typed somewhere on this site. Good luck and forge on.....Did I mention we like pics. :)

Here is a real good manual put out by Nicholson on file type and use. Files are great tools but take some practices to use.  

 

http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks_library/nicholson_guide_to_filing_2006.pdf

That is a good manual Jacob, thanks.  @Swedefiddle, What's the purpose of the chalk?

 

 

Chalk will fill the low spots of the file and make it cut smoother.It acts as a pad and the file can't cut as deep.

no but wait til ya get a metal sliver under that nail.  :o  We will be waiting for your post in safety section about it when it does.

I promise I'll do that if it ever happens. :rolleyes:  (as soon as I can type after healing, that is.... ;) )

You can send your old files to be cleaned and sharpened I send my files to Boggs tools, they come back better then new. I also fine old brand name file at garage sales for .50 - 1.00 and send them to be sharped. I save a lot of money on having them cleaned and sharpened. 

 

http://www.boggstool.com/