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Legally blind smith, question on eyesight


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Kind of an unusual question but to all of you with normal ( correctable ) vision , can you see the finer surface shape of your steel  and your hammer blow facets at working temps ? I can see the general shape of my hot steel but can see no fine detail, like hammer marks, untill the steel is rose colored or below. What can all of you see ?

.

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My eyesight is horrible past arm's length, so no, I can't see much of the surface texture on bright steel unless it's a really good ding that changes how the light is reflected back at me.  The brighter the metal, the harder it is for anyone to see through the glare, so don't feel like you're alone in this.  A lightly tinted pair of shades with IR protection will help, too.

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Light conditions can also change how things look. Last summer I did a demo and the sun came out over my anvil, but the forge was still in the shade. I'd take steel out of the fire at a yellow heat and as soon as I turned to the anvil, and it was in the bright sun, it looked like I needed to stick it back in the fire again.

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I can't see center-punch marks or the like above a red, but can make out shapes pretty well at orange or below. I also can't tell the difference between orange and yellow temperatures by color. I go by how bright it looks. (I control my ambient lighting.)

 

My vision is corrected to about 20/25 or so by my prescription safety glasses. (I've read that "normal" is better than 20/20.)

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We all have trouble seeing at the higher temps, some things that help are the tented glasses for gass torches, as well as using square tiled center punches and pinching ford the edge so you make a bump you can feel withe edge of the anvil or hammer, raise the anvil, or even get a magnifier on a boom.

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Look for a shade 3 or 5 gas welding goggles. You can get a #3 in a full face shield. They provide IR protection as well as toning down the brightness of the metal while still allowing you to see the surroundings.

 

Jackson F-500 Faceshield
F-500 Faceshields are molded from Noryl to be stronger, more
durable and more heat resistant than smaller faceshields made with
ordinary material. Broad and deep 7" crown protector provides an
extra measure of protection in harsh conditions. Channel grip
system locks windows in place in a deep recessed channel to form
a perfect seal from dust, dirt and debris. Includes Fibre-Metal 3-C
free-floating headgear. Choose Clear Window or tinted
Shade 5 Window for welding applications.

 

Not Jackson but another style

http://s.gc1.co/is/image/Grainger/1N785_AS01?$mdmain$

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you Gentlemen, both for suggestions and for treating my question with respect.

You have blown my mind with possibilities ! Adapt or Accomodate, Accomodate or Adapt I apprieciate the professional permission to mix and choose freely for what works for me. When I was a high school kid I took some bsmithing lessons from Nol Putnam and the first day he told me I hammered all wrong and was a bit dissmissive about my future potential as a smith, this had a lasting damaging psycological effect on me and wasted some prime learning ops for me.. He did not know my incorrectable vision was a  big reason why and back then I did not have the courage to be out about my vision and stand up for my self. Today I do have that courage and you have really helped me.

I will start to rethink my whole shop set up immediately, I might jack up the forge too. The idea of square tiled hand tools [ square by braile ] is really cool. Yes I will talk with eye doctor about scripted safety sheild.

Thanks again,

Ed Storey

Free Wind Forge

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We want you to succeed. Our problem is trying to read between your lines and offer suggestions you can use. More information is better.

 

Like blacksmithing, the large project is just a bunch of small stuff that you put together.  The same with your project, choosing one small item at a time and arriving at a solution is usually the best way to go. Put the small changes that work together and you solve the larger issue.

 

For instance, to make the text larger in this post use CONTROL and +.  Repeat as needed. To make it smaller, use CONTROL and -.  Repeat as needed. You may have to use the scroll bars to view the entire screen.  

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Ed, there will be times.  I can see well but can't hear.  I have hoods on the forges in the shop and trailer.  As noted, sunlight over the anvil will teach you to look at things differently.  Also if you have a hood, you can study things IN the fire.  Shade 5 gas welding glasses may help you yes.  Even " cheap sunglasses" may help you.  Don't give up.  Where you located ? 

 

 

Do not use cheap sunglasses.  They do reduce general lighting  but they also open the irus to compensate, allowing in even more invisable to us, IR light than without the shades.   If you have any shading they need to have IR filtering.   Please read up on IR light and retna burn.

 

Unless you like the idea of some day having to forge by the braile method.

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  • 3 months later...

Thanks Glenn, I dig it. Don't worry.

Ten Hammers I could no more give up than to quit painting.

Over the winter I have made some solid changes/improvements,

 

1. I lifted my forge hearth height and my two anvils by about 5 inches.

2. Adjusted 2nd anvil to better light orientation.

3. Implemented a shorter hammer handle to compensate for power loss ( higher anvil shorter stroke ).

 

My best discovery is working into the square with my cotagonal down off side on the die anvil allows me to hammer up into the square ( edge clear as bell ) and not worry about not seing the exact shape of the octagonal. This is working well for me. Another cool thing I found is when notching four sides if I set my hammer down gently where I want to have an accurate blow than my first hard blow is always true, a bit slow and heat wasteful but it seems tomy  work.

Ed

Shop pic shows higher anvils and if you look close at right hand anvil you can see where the stand add on is, four bolts and I have kid workshop/striker height stand.

 

post-30637-0-05364400-1397575009_thumb.j

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When you use the computer, hold down the control button and push the + plus sign one time. Repeat as needed to make the text larger. To make the text smaller, use control button and the - minus sign to decrease the size of the text.

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When you use the computer, hold down the control button and push the + plus sign one time. Repeat as needed to make the text larger. To make the text smaller, use control button and the - minus sign to decrease the size of the text.

 

Or use the "CTRL" LF or RT button held down and scroll up or down on the mouse wheel .

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