Repairing an anvil?

[Kilroy]

 

As you can see the sides are chipped, what would be the best course of action?

[VaughnT]

I would leave it be until you had enough time and experience to know what you really needed, as opposed to wanted.

 

Those edges don't look great, but they aren't awful either.  You can take a flap disk or belt sander to them and radius the edges, which I wold personally do.  Or, you could weld the edges back up if you have the time, electricity and equipment.

[knots]

First of all I would want to figure out what the quality of the anvil really is, and therefore if would it be worth the effort or even possible to repair it.  Are there any identifying marks ?

 

Just looking at the anvil I see a couple of unexpected conditions.  The chipped edges show no evidence of a plate ( that I can see) so I assume that the anvil is cast.   The step between the anvil work face and the cuting table is unusually small.   Given the nature of the edge damage, these are features that I might expect to find on an unplated cast iron anvil.  If it is an unplated cast iron anvil I would not waste the effort of an attempted repair.  

 

This is all based on what I see in one picture.   If there are markings on the anvil and you could provide additional information maybe we could be more helpful .

 

Or as VaughnT suggests radius the corners and use it .

[joshua.M]

Use it.

[knots]

Before using this anvil use a file to test the hardness.  When an anvil exhibits that type and degree of edge spalling I would be very careful of having observers in and around the area when forging because of the potential of metal shards being launched from the edge.  This is especially true with children being close by.

 

Test the anvil edge with a file.   If the file skates across the edge without cutting or barely cutting it is to hard and the potential for launching flyng bits of metal is high.  In that case a more rounded edge would be safer.

[neg]

The step between the anvil work face and the cuting table is unusually small.   Given the nature of the edge damage, these are features that I might expect to find on an unplated cast iron anvil.  If it is an unplated cast iron anvil I would not waste the effort of an attempted repair.  

Looks like a 100lb vulcan to me. They have a really small step like that so I'm sure the plate is still there and the logo is cast into the oposite side. Also, I think I can make out a 10 on the front of the feet.

[Kilroy]

Looks like a 100lb vulcan to me. They have a really small step like that so I'm sure the plate is still there and the logo is cast into the oposite side. Also, I think I can make out a 10 on the front of the feet.

The only marking I can make out is a 10, everything else is worn off.

[Dan C]

My vote would be to use it as is until you learn what you need (assuming it's safe to do so) 

 

What about mushroomed edges, should these be cleaned up by grinding some of the overhang?  I've been reluctant to do so as I wanted to use it as is and I've found the large radius very helpful.  When I need a sharp edge I go to the RR track anvil in the background.

 

 

If I could fill some of the divots in the face & heel w/o affecting rebound I would do so, though the depression on the front right corner is very useful for making spoons.  There is a C-shaped area on the face that looks like someone did a repair, but it didn't affect the rebound that I can tell.

 

[ThomasPowers]

My first thought was "Vulcan" too; as such welding the edges you will be welding both a higher carbon steel *AND* cast iron at the same time.

Not for the faint of heart or untrained in the art.

[Everything Mac]

The majority of the face actually looks ok. In fact it looks pretty flat. I'd just use a flap disk to radius those edges and tidy it up a bit.

I reckon it probably is a Vulcan, not the best anvil in the world but it will easily get you up and running for a while.

Andy

[knots]

The majority of the face actually looks ok. In fact it looks pretty flat. I'd just use a flap disk to radius those edges and tidy it up a bit.

I reckon it probably is a Vulcan, not the best anvil in the world but it will easily get you up and running for a while.

Andy

 

Very true.  If you look at each, the horn, the table, and the anvil face it looks as if the anvil saw very little use.  The edges however have extensive damage.  For that kind of damage to have occurred without damage to other areas  indicates either abuse or early brittle failure under normal use.   

 

I have seen several Austrian anvils that had one side rounded to what looked like maybe a 1" radius.  I have been eyeing those anvils because I like that feature, but would never consider altering one of my american or english anvils .   However in this case It seems to me that a rounding of the edge of this anvil would be a good idea because it would likely stabilize an unstable edge.  If it were mine I would probably start off with a 1/2" to  3/4"radius  rounding of the damaged edge on one side of the anvil.  If the underlying cast iron were really hard this might work nicely and reduce the likelyhood of flying shrapnel .  Any radius should help reduce that hazard and work well for forging proceedures since the anvil still has a few good crisp edges.  

[Kilroy]

The majority of the face actually looks ok. In fact it looks pretty flat. I'd just use a flap disk to radius those edges and tidy it up a bit.

I reckon it probably is a Vulcan, not the best anvil in the world but it will easily get you up and running for a while.

Andy

It's much better than the anvil I'm using now, at least the back of the anvil looks servicable.

[Everything Mac]

Have at it with the flap discs and then report back.

[Everything Mac]

Come to think of it, the anvil I use at a craft centre I'm involved with at open days is in awful condition. Awful. But it see's daily use by mostly school kids, most of whom are lucky to hit the hot iron one time in three strikes. The face is really beaten up but still works fine.

In fact once you're used to the odd shapes and bumps they become very useful. One raised section I can think of is particularly useful for creating flares for arrow heads.

I'll try and get some pics of it next time I'm there.
Andy

[Kilroy]

Have at it with the flap discs and then report back.

It's just that simple huh? That doesn't seem to difficult, but knowing my luck I'll sand it in half.

[Dan C]

I cleaned up my mushroomed edges last night with a stone and then flap discs.  When I get home from work I'll take some after pictures that you can compare to the previous pics I posted after grinding the overhangs.

[Everything Mac]

It really is that simple. Don't go mad and try to get it perfect, just take the sharpness out if the chipped areas and round the very corner a bit.
Take it slow, you'll know when enough is enough.

Andy

[Dan C]

Here are the pictures after i ground away the overhang of the mushroomed edges. 4.5" grinder w 40 grit stone, then an 80 grit flapper disc. I didn't touch the top.

[knots]

When I look at a well worn anvil such as yours I cannot help but marvel at all of the hours spent  making wonderful, useful, and artfull objects .   That old warior has another life time or two left in it.   Keep it in good company .   

[Everything Mac]

Here are the pictures after i ground away the overhang of the mushroomed edges. 4.5" grinder w 40 grit stone, then an 80 grit flapper disc. I didn't touch the top.

That looks much better! Well done that man!

[LastRonin]

Looks very useable. Good job.