eseemann Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Here is a rebar knife (letter opener) that I started in charcoal and then worked in a gas forge. Nothing fancy but this is my first knife. Knowing that rebar does not have enough carbon to really get that hard is there any point in trying to heat treat it at all? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Rebate is rated by minimum performance not by content. You may be surprised, as I've made servisible chisels with it. I'd play with a peice of the parent stock to see how hard it gets, whether to use water or oil and how much, if any temper is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eseemann Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Worth a try! In Los Angeles the city melted down guns that were taken and no longer evidence as well as tunred in on a buy back and made them in to rebar for the Staples Center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 When I make RR knives or letter openers out of HC spikes, I quench in ice water and do not do any tempering afterwards. I've tested them by hammering the blade into wood and then twisting it side to side to remove. Haven't had a blade or edge break yet. I don't know how that would work for rebar, but you might try it on a test piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eseemann Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 I think I might just do that. I just put a rough handle on a carving knife with about a 1" blade. That is from what I think is 1045 and I did the quench in cool water and it seems to be working for light carving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5starhobo (blake) Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 I've gotten some rebar to harden. some stuff i picked up at home depot. There is different grades i believe and higher the grade, the more specific types of metal that are recycled to make it. Or you could just get lucky and have some higher carbon junk go through the recycling process. Ive made a few knives from the rebar that hardens. just for the heck of it. Nothing to sell or anything but just shop knives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eseemann Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 This is part something to do and part me wanting to be able to say if need be I can do this. I saw a thing on the news in the late 90's about a man in his 60's that makes knives and I thought that I want to know how to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 When I make RR knives or letter openers out of HC spikes, I quench in ice water and do not do any tempering afterwards. I've tested them by hammering the blade into wood and then twisting it side to side to remove. Haven't had a blade or edge break yet. I don't know how that would work for rebar, but you might try it on a test piece. soft steel normally doesnt break.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 soft steel normally doesnt break.... True, it was more a test to see if the ice quench was too hard and if tempering was needed. Not enough carbon in it to make it brittle hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 any time we harden anything we need to relieve the stess that process created, its a matter of the physics.. Even an hour 325F bake, which wont reduce the hardness enough to notice, but will relieve the stresses. Its all in the heat treating posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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