Hope this works......

I've used electrolysis a few times and have found it to be very effective, including freeing up a blower that many other methods had failed to do.

I have a paint buck set up just for electrolysis, last year I did a Jointer that was rusted up bad. Took about a week to clean all the parts. The only side effect was the wife was not happy with a laundry sink in the back yard. Might try the post vise this year, looking for a kids pool. 

I use vinegar to derust parts a lot, its slower but works fantastic, Ive seen the electrolysis done and I belive it will not work on scale, but is faster at removing rust, and Im told, you don't want to use stainless for your sacrificial plate or you get hexovalent chromium in the solution in the tank.

I just set up an electrolysis bath today for the first time.  Used a 20 qt. clear plastic container from Wallyworld, some rebar, copper wire, PVC for hanger support, steel wire for hanger, 3amp battery charger and it only took about 30 min. to assemble it.  Wish I had done it years ago!!  Much easier and safer than acid.

 

Started a trial de-rusting with a very rusty railroad spike and it started bubbling in about 30 seconds.  Had to turn it off before it finished and move it inside out of the rain, but it was working like a champ.  Can't wait to restart it and see how it's working.

I use vinegar to derust parts a lot, its slower but works fantastic, Ive seen the electrolysis done and I belive it will not work on scale, but is faster at removing rust, and Im told, you don't want to use stainless for your sacrificial plate or you get hexovalent chromium in the solution in the tank.

hexavalent chrome is normally produced at welding temps, the liquid in my tank never got to 1500 degrees c ( about 2500 degrees F ).

in fact it remained about room temp plus a few degrees, I have not used stainless for it but believe there was something about it on another thread showing it was ok.

 

the above is just my opinion unless someone has better information to add