Rberry1911 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Well i finally got a #25 lg but it needs a little work. I was wondeing if anyone has any suggestions on what to do/check for first. I know that the dies need changed atleast the top die, the ram guide is kinda loose and the ram is off center, the clutch needs some work as when the guy ran it it hit hard and fast and when i got home i put the belt back on and its loose to where i cant get it to hit now other than that it just needs cleaned up and sand blasted and fresh paint. Does anyone know the original paint color on little giants. The serial # is 6366 from what i looked at on the site it was built between the 40s-80. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry W. Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Call Sid at Little Giant. He should be ableto tell you all there is to know. Great people to deal with. He will probably have any parts that you may need or be able to tell you how to repair them yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Go to Anvilfire.com and buy "How to cure the Bang, Tap Blues" video by Dave Manzer. Dave is no longer with us in this world, but I think his information is still available. Yes it is still available in the Store. Dave Manzer spent an awful long time making the Little Giant's sing (in Canada a Jardine was built under license from Little Giant). His knowledge and thinking, regarding the Power Hammers, is HUGE!!!! Dave will show you how to put a Brake on it. If you can't find it send me a note. Buy his other video on tooling as well, it is worth GOLD!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 I'm sorry to disagree with Neil, but I did exactly what he had mentioned above except for the video on tooling. I found the Manzer video way past my needs at the time but found Sid's 4 hour video to be the exact guide for what Rberry1911 needs. Sid's video is about $100 and worth every penny. It takes you through an entire rebuild and what to look for. I had a 50lb hammer that hadn't run in eight years and I didn't know where to start. Sid's video help me so much in adjusting my hammer, to ordering just the needed parts and is a constant resource of info, besides be able to call Sid for the many questions that develop. Good luck Rberry1911. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 I was looking at sids video and was thinking about buying it, but i have wait to save up some funds to start the rebuild process..so to say.. I was just wanting to get some info brewing up between the now and the rebuild start. Thanks for the info guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Hanson Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Congrats! Nice lookin late model hammer! Get Sid's video for sure. It's a bargin at twice the price. In the photo, the toggle links are probably upside down, or backwards causing the ram to sag. Links should be horizontal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Hanson Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 Go to Anvilfire.com and buy "How to cure the Bang, Tap Blues" video by Dave Manzer. Dave is no longer with us in this world, but I think his information is still available. Yes it is still available in the Store. Dave Manzer spent an awful long time making the Little Giant's sing (in Canada a Jardine was built under license from Little Giant). His knowledge and thinking, regarding the Power Hammers, is HUGE!!!! Dave will show you how to put a Brake on it. If you can't find it send me a note. Buy his other video on tooling as well, it is worth GOLD!! Neil Very good videos! But little info on rebuilding a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCal Dave Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 The original color is some shade of green. Look at the Little Giant website and you will see examples. Also, when you type in Little Giant on the internet, I found examples. Look at youtube videos and you will see green and red also. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Thanks a lot for the info. Today i got the top die off but the lower die seems to be on there...any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 part 1 here.... http://www.anvilmag.com/smith/011f2.htm no part 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Greetings 1911, Getting the taper key out is a challange sometimes... After some Gibs or WD 40 overnight...some heat from a weed torch on the sow and than I use an air chisel with a blunt end... I use a good long barrel not a muffler gun..... Take your time and go both ways its the vibration that causes the rust to compress and make room for the lubricant ... Remember the wedge is tapered 2 ways.. I hope this helps... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 That is a new style . it came out of the factory gray not green the top die key is tapered 2 ways but the lower die only tapered end to end. You will need a new spring for sure. and most likely new toggle link pins a the very least. the clutch will have bronze bushing instead of babbit. the toggle links have bronze bushing as well. you can get over sized pins from Sid and ream not drill the arms if the holes are worn. That should get you started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Thanks for the info, today i took everything off except the lower die and die block, the trip pedal and the motor mount. The top babbits were cracked in more than one spot so those will have to be replaced. I took the fly off with the clutch so i dont know what the bearing in the clutch looks. Should the toggle links have bushings on both sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Yes the toggle links should have bushings in both ends. becareful if you remove anything from the shaft they are mounted with taper keys and if you press them the wrong way you will crack the hub of the clutch spider and/or the crank plate, that would cost you hundreds of dollar to replace. There are thing about these hammer that are not so obvious and if you don't know what you are doing you can really screw things up. Most machine shops don't understand power hammers and mess up a lot of parts quick. Get all the viedos you can, take a class or hire someone that knows what they are doing to help you with a rebuild It will be money well spent in the long run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 Thanks for important info...as it looked they had no bushings surprisingly the bolts wasn't hard to get considering this hammer sat for 20 + years so the clutch is on there with tapered keys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOblacksmith0530 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Yes the clutch key is tapered. I worked on one last year that required I pull the clutch off several times during the setup and testing stages. I drilled and tapped the end of the key and used a slide hammer to remove it. I can't remember what size I tapped it but is was 1/4 inch or less. I don't have the hammer anymore I traded it for a larger one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 When talking about the clutch key are you refering to the key/ pin that holds the spider on the crank shaft? The reason i ask this is because when looking at the clutch the other day it slid off the spider... I didnt know if it was suppose to do that Some of the bearings still seem to goodon the hammer...both toggle links have been braized and they did have bearing i found after wire brushing it. Sorry for the noob questions this is a learning experience for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Well after a little. CUtting i finally got the lower die out and it was an ordeal. I have soaked the die block for like 2 weeks now with pb blaster and it still will not budge. I have beat and beat on that thing it just start mushrooming. I heated it up and nothing, anyone got and ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Leave the die block where it is for now. rebuild the hammer put it together and use it. keep soaking it and with use most of the die block key will free up from the pounding. for really stuborn ones I weld a piece of high quality threade rod to the thick end of the key put a pipe over that ith alarge washer then a nut screw the nut on as tight as you can then use the hammer for a few days keep checking the nut and tighten as you can. It has never failed me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rberry1911 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ok will do once i get it built and i will post back here to let u know...thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 If you want it right,,get into a class at Sids,,you take your hammer there and rebuild it,,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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